[EllieInTransit]

TL;DR I went with the Espar heater vs. the Webasto because it is newer more powerful. This post covers why and the install below. Removing the fuel sending unit and standpipe is difficult and i documented my instructions.

If you are trying to decide between a Webasto Airtop STC 2000 and the newer Espar M2, I will provide my thoughts and details on the decision and the install of the Espar below.

Espar M2- B4l
Pros:

Loading…

esparparts.com

• Version 3 Heater from Espar
• Automatic high altitude adjustment (I live in Montana)
• 2x as powerful as the Espar (re: Montana)
• Brushless motor
• Comes with a thermostat/timer
• Better fuel pump

Cons:

• Price
• Advanced install (to do it right)
• Webasto is a quick install with the factory auxiliary standpipe

Webasto Airtop STC 2000
Pros:

• Throws plenty of heat
• Reliable, if installed perfectly
• Easy install on the transit

Cons:

• Less powerful
• No automatic altitude adjustment. You need to do it manually, requiring the rheostat (not timer controller)
• If you want the timer and thermostat function, you also need to buy a separate controller, but if you want high-altitude adjustment you need to but BOTH.
• Very sensitive to altitude.
• Thermostat is in buried in the wiring harness, in a place that is not very useful.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I went with the Espar heater for the reasons above. I live in Montana and I am always at high attitude skiing or hunting. I want the extra heating power to keep my water system and batteries from freezing. I like the idea of a more reliable/newer heater with built in altitude adjustment. Even though it is more expensive, I still would need to buy two controllers for the Webasto and at that point it is almost negligible.

The one caveat is that you need (should!) install the correct standpipe in the transit for the Espar. The Transit standpipe inside the gas sender unit has a very wide diameter. It looks like at is about ½’’. The orange pipe is for the auxiliary standpipe. If you use this with the Espar (likely the Webasto as well), you will likely have issues. The pump needs to work extremely hard to and you will have issues down the line. If you are a mellow user, not at altitude, weekend warrior, you may be fine for a while. The comparison is if you put a cocktail straw on top of a large drinking straw. It would be nearly impossible to pull liquid through the cocktail straw. See the picture of the size of the Espar fuel line.

Transit sending unit

Espar fuel pipe:

In the Transit kit, Esparparts.com sends the appropriate standpipe. When I got it, there were rough instructions for a F150 ecoboost install. This was not the same as my Ecoboost 2020 AWD Transit. But, it can be done. Make sure you have everything setup and ready to go. Have your tools and a work bench ready. You need rubber gloves and eye protection or goggles (ask me why, preferably goggles…). Instruction below:

• Drop the gas tank. It is way easier if it is empty. If your van is lifted with bigger tires it will not hit the ground with the hoses attached. User a jack. Use something to prop it up on (see pictures). Lay out the brackets in the correct orientation and label the bolts (see pictures).
  
• Start discounting everything on the sending unit. Use a very small flat head and a pick. Gently lift the brackets to discount everything. Be gentle and don’t force it. They will come off.
• The lines are under pressure and can spray gas in your face. Wear goggles and use a rag to cover the connections when you pull them off.
  
• Pick set
  
  
• Remove the 3 nuts holding on the plastic protective shroud. Remove the shroud.

This is where it gets complicated. You are supposed to use a ‘special tool’ to remove the sending unit, but it is not necessary. You will need a socket extender, socket, and hammer. There are “lock” and “unlock” symbols to show you the orientation you need to unlock the unit. It is lefty loosy righty tighty. You will see indents around the metal locking mechanism. Use the socket with extender and hammer to knock around the metal shroud. Note the orientation of the unit. If only goes on one way with the plastic shroud. Don't forget this. See the YouTube video.

• Once unlocked, remove the unit
• Mine did NOT come out all the way. I don’t know why. This made it very difficult.
• I had to work under the van to install the standpipe.
• Find the correct spot and drill the hole for the standpipe (8mm). Make sure nothing falls in the tank! I think the drill bit was 5/16, but test this beforehand.
• Make sure the washer and nut will fit where you drill the hole and make sure there is nothing is in the way.
• If you are worried about the size of the hole, use a step drill bit to walk it in.
• Install the standpipe with the washer and the nut.

• Bend the pipe around any obstructions.
• Don’t forget to install the Espar fuel hose before you strap back in the gas tank.

Now it’s time to install the heater! If there is interest, I can cover the heater install as well.

 

[Rolf]

Thanks for Sharing, yes the heater install part be great too

 

[Pajarojo]

great write up, thank you!

 

[JustAnotherUser]

Great write up dude! Installed my unit with the AUX port per FaroutRide's documentation soon after I got my van but will be dropping the tank again and installing a stand pipe once summer comes back. Heater works fine but feel like it's just a matter of time before issues arise.

 

[EllieInTransit]

Thanks! I was very surprised to open the unit and see just how large the orange diameter pipe is. I am sure this is part of the reason people have so many issues with webasto heaters and using the ford auxiliary tap. This was a difficult project. I did not expect it to be so tricky. The biggest thing was I could not get the entire sending unit out of the tank. I am sure there is a trick, but I wasn't going to force anything. One reason I didn't have time to figure it out is you are only supposed to have the gas tank open for about 10 minutes due to expansion.

Few Notes:

• The gas tank should only be open for about 10 minutes due to expansion.
• The position where I placed the hotel is not perfect. Make sure you make sure there is nothing impeding the washer for the standpipe.

 

[RidingRoadsAndTrails]

@EllieInTransit Very nice writeup, thanks! I'd guess that the fuel level float is what had you hung up on getting the sending unit all the way out of the tank. Note the right side of the picture below. I had to lean and turn the sending unit to get it out and do the same maneuver to get it back in.

 

[gregoryx]

Great job documenting. 💪

 

[Jonasier]

Thank’s for the job and the review!

Isn’t possible to make a little hole on the original plug, and insert the Espar/Webasto pipe? Maybe goes trought the orange pipe, almost to the bottom of the tank, and you don’t need to dissembly sending unit?

 

[johngchrist]

I did this tonight with, To help figure out where to drill the hole in the sender unit I used a flash light from below and was able to see the free space from the top. I used a sharpie to outline that space and center my hole.

Thanks for the pics and write up!

 

[gregoryx]

Thank’s for the job and the review!

Isn’t possible to make a little hole on the original plug, and insert the Espar/Webasto pipe? Maybe goes trought the orange pipe, almost to the bottom of the tank, and you don’t need to dissembly sending unit?

In theory... but seems like a not-so-good idea to risk dropping bits of plastic while opening it up. For that to work, you'd also have to take someone's word on what length to cut the standpipe to - since that's something figured out while fitting it. It's really not a big effort to remove the cover / unit - just seems difficult until you hit it hard enough. 😄

 

[EllieInTransit]

Thank’s for the job and the review!

Isn’t possible to make a little hole on the original plug, and insert the Espar/Webasto pipe? Maybe goes trought the orange pipe, almost to the bottom of the tank, and you don’t need to dissembly sending unit?

No problem! Not possible for a few reasons. As gregoryx said, plastic would fall in. Second is that you need to secure the pipe with a nut from the bottom. Without taking the unit out, you couldn't fasten the nut. If you already have the tank on the ground taking the unit out is actually easy. Just watch the youtube link I posted.

 

[EllieInTransit]

I did this tonight with, To help figure out where to drill the hole in the sender unit I used a flash light from below and was able to see the free space from the top. I used a sharpie to outline that space and center my hole.

Thanks for the pics and write up!

Very clever! Glad it worked. Did you use a tool to remove the unit or the method with a hammer and knock it free?

 

[johngchrist]

Very clever! Glad it worked. Did you use a tool to remove the unit or the method with a hammer and knock it free?

I used a screwdriver and a hammer to turn the ring.

I was also unable to remove the unit from the tank didn't want to go ham on it and break something.

Another tip I found helpful is blowing the top of the sender unit off with my air hose as well as covering up all the disconnected gas lines with the fingers off a vinyl glove.

With the two inch lift on the van and stock tires I was just barley able to pull the tank out from under the van.

 

[Van Gogh]

TL;DR I went with the Espar heater vs. the Webasto because it is newer more powerful. This post covers why and the install below. Removing the fuel sending unit and standpipe is difficult and i documented my instructions.

If you are trying to decide between a Webasto Airtop STC 2000 and the newer Espar M2, I will provide my thoughts and details on the decision and the install of the Espar below.

Espar M2- B4l
Pros:

Loading…

esparparts.com

• Version 3 Heater from Espar
• Automatic high altitude adjustment (I live in Montana)
• 2x as powerful as the Espar (re: Montana)
• Brushless motor
• Comes with a thermostat/timer
• Better fuel pump

Cons:

• Price
• Advanced install (to do it right)
• Webasto is a quick install with the factory auxiliary standpipe

Webasto Airtop STC 2000
Pros:

• Throws plenty of heat
• Reliable, if installed perfectly
• Easy install on the transit

Cons:

• Less powerful
• No automatic altitude adjustment. You need to do it manually, requiring the rheostat (not timer controller)
• If you want the timer and thermostat function, you also need to buy a separate controller, but if you want high-altitude adjustment you need to but BOTH.
• Very sensitive to altitude.
• Thermostat is in buried in the wiring harness, in a place that is not very useful.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I went with the Espar heater for the reasons above. I live in Montana and I am always at high attitude skiing or hunting. I want the extra heating power to keep my water system and batteries from freezing. I like the idea of a more reliable/newer heater with built in altitude adjustment. Even though it is more expensive, I still would need to buy two controllers for the Webasto and at that point it is almost negligible.

The one caveat is that you need (should!) install the correct standpipe in the transit for the Espar. The Transit standpipe inside the gas sender unit has a very wide diameter. It looks like at is about ½’’. The orange pipe is for the auxiliary standpipe. If you use this with the Espar (likely the Webasto as well), you will likely have issues. The pump needs to work extremely hard to and you will have issues down the line. If you are a mellow user, not at altitude, weekend warrior, you may be fine for a while. The comparison is if you put a cocktail straw on top of a large drinking straw. It would be nearly impossible to pull liquid through the cocktail straw. See the picture of the size of the Espar fuel line.

Transit sending unit

Espar fuel pipe:

In the Transit kit, Esparparts.com sends the appropriate standpipe. When I got it, there were rough instructions for a F150 ecoboost install. This was not the same as my Ecoboost 2020 AWD Transit. But, it can be done. Make sure you have everything setup and ready to go. Have your tools and a work bench ready. You need rubber gloves and eye protection or goggles (ask me why, preferably goggles…). Instruction below:

• Drop the gas tank. It is way easier if it is empty. If your van is lifted with bigger tires it will not hit the ground with the hoses attached. User a jack. Use something to prop it up on (see pictures). Lay out the brackets in the correct orientation and label the bolts (see pictures).
  
• Start discounting everything on the sending unit. Use a very small flat head and a pick. Gently lift the brackets to discount everything. Be gentle and don’t force it. They will come off.
• The lines are under pressure and can spray gas in your face. Wear goggles and use a rag to cover the connections when you pull them off.
  
• Pick set
  
  
• Remove the 3 nuts holding on the plastic protective shroud. Remove the shroud.

This is where it gets complicated. You are supposed to use a ‘special tool’ to remove the sending unit, but it is not necessary. You will need a socket extender, socket, and hammer. There are “lock” and “unlock” symbols to show you the orientation you need to unlock the unit. It is lefty loosy righty tighty. You will see indents around the metal locking mechanism. Use the socket with extender and hammer to knock around the metal shroud. Note the orientation of the unit. If only goes on one way with the plastic shroud. Don't forget this. See the YouTube video.

• Once unlocked, remove the unit
• Mine did NOT come out all the way. I don’t know why. This made it very difficult.
• I had to work under the van to install the standpipe.
• Find the correct spot and drill the hole for the standpipe (8mm). Make sure nothing falls in the tank! I think the drill bit was 5/16, but test this beforehand.
• Make sure the washer and nut will fit where you drill the hole and make sure there is nothing is in the way.
• If you are worried about the size of the hole, use a step drill bit to walk it in.
• Install the standpipe with the washer and the nut.

• Bend the pipe around any obstructions.
• Don’t forget to install the Espar fuel hose before you strap back in the gas tank.

Now it’s time to install the heater! If there is interest, I can cover the heater install as well.

Like many others have done, I set my Webasto to high altitude on day one and haven't touched it since. Getting ready to install the timer, and have no plans to adjust the altitude regardless of whether I'm at sea level or on a summit. All it means is slightly lower output at low elevations, which I'm fine with. The webasto puts out tons of heat.

Cheers.

 

[EllieInTransit]

Like many others have done, I set my Webasto to high altitude on day one and haven't touched it since. Getting ready to install the timer, and have no plans to adjust the altitude regardless of whether I'm at sea level or on a summit. All it means is slightly lower output at low elevations, which I'm fine with. The webasto puts out tons of heat.

Cheers.

Agreed. Part of point is that I would have to buy both the controllers to adjust. Webasto is a great heater. I had it on my last van. Can't go wrong.

 

[Wyoming]

Just a note that the 2022 has an optional fuel line extension port. I have not seen it but I would imagine it saves dropping the tank. Anyone know for sure?

 

[Wyoming]

The fuel port thing is called "Auxiliary Fuel Port Extension" Item code 63F.

 

[Captadv]

Is the Auxiliary Fuel Port (63F) the option this whole thread says won’t work reliably especially at altitude because it is too big?

 

[gregoryx]

Is the Auxiliary Fuel Port (63F) the option this whole thread says won’t work reliably especially at altitude because it is too big?

That's the much-discussed topic. Some have had great success /using/ the aux port at altitude, others have not. @Bazz99 has had no troubles with the aux port for over a year at 8,000+ feet. Others have had trouble. 🤷‍♀️

 

[ArgonautVans]

I need to re-res the miracle whip build thread, but seems like she used the aux port and a simple reducer to get to appropriate fuel line size before the heater. Seems like a good option.