[RQJoe]

Just another data point, my B4L is having issues at altitude too. Hard starting and shutting down with a service code while running. Installer looking at it this week, will report back with any findings.

do you use the OEM fuel tap or did you install the heater manufacturer smaller fuel tank tap?

 

[RQJoe]

I have a B4 in my current van (promaster) and have only had issues over 10,000'. Even then it's not all the time. I have the previous generation B4 with the add on altitude sensor.

My Transit is being built and I bought another previous generation B4 for it. I don't have the altitude sensor yet. I assume I'm going to need the sensor AND a different fuel straw? I'd love to know these answers.

No one knows "the answers." We all have our opinions and what we think are the answers to some things. I think your answers are: Yes you'll need another sensor, and I'd use the fuel straw that comes with a new heater.......... regards.

 

[RQJoe]

Asking the real questions. I was wondering the same thing. Looking at the instructions it appears to be a new hole?

Yes, new hole.

 

[RQJoe]

The nut in the picture goes on the inside of the tank. You have to remove the fuel pump cover. Not as big a job as it seems, I have dropped the tank ot 2 previous vans and replaced the pumps. Hey, if it's too easy there is no fun in it!

 

[RQJoe]

Feel better?

 

[RQJoe]

Not really. You want to hear my wife's constant complaining about how a several thousand dollar heater isn't reliable even after multiple attempts to problem solve? I doubt it.

I get it. U just need to vent. I guess we all do that at times. Go ahead, rant on. I’ll read it. Oh, i do have a solution too - stay below 10K. No joking, where the heck do you park and stay above 10K? i don’t know your setup, but do you use the skinny pipe as the previous poster asked? It makes a diff…….

 

[RQJoe]

Mine works fine……..

 

[RQJoe]

The new pump had a larger size tube on the inlet so I thought a slightly larger fuel line would be appropriate (3mmID). So that's what I used when I put in the Espar dip tube. Seemed like a good idea at the time however Mike says it should be 2mmID. It's a BIG deal to change given the full set of skid plates but will bite the bullet if necessary. There are no, zero, none bubbles on the inlet side of the pump and a steady stream of bubbles on the outlet. The pump is obviously generating bubbles. The pump is very close to the fuel tank and it's just hard to believe that the 18" of inlet fuel line would make a difference.The pump is nowhere near exhaust or heat source. I just ran it for a couple hours and now I'll let it sit outside and see what happens in the morning when it's cold. I did replace the combo heat sensor and used a dab of thermal paste like you put on heat sinks on CPU's.

Your inlet black rubber hose appears to have a ‘narrowed’ section in it. It looks like your clear plastic line is not inserted all the way up to the metal inlet pipe of the pump. Instructions say not butting the two together will generate bubbles…….

 

[RQJoe]

I don’t know if mine generates bubbles or not. But i do know the thing works fine. Starts up every time and heats with no errors. Do you still get error codes?

If so, maybe it is not even the bubbles that are causing the codes.……