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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the factory dual battery config in my 2020 Crew super-minimalist build.

Find the factory dual batteries Kind of low value …as it comes from factory connected parallel for cabin 12VDC/115AC use with out a some sort of automatic charge down separation device (solenoid, etc) IMO…I would not want to run other cabin devices off of this setup (inverter, domestic cooler) for fear of running down the dual bank and not being able to start the van.

My plan:

Remove the secondary AGM.

Terminate the factory chassis 12VDC connection at the primary AGM.

Use the open battery compartment slot to house a 100Ah LiPo battery.

Connect a renology dc2dc (50A) charger from the CCV to manage engine-on charging of the house LiPo battery.

Connect inverter and other devices to the CCV and mount in the cabin.

Solution: house battery is mounted safely without using cabin space.

Analysis?
 

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You could probably make that work, but you might want to be certain that you really need it.

I started out assuming I'd need a full-on house system with batteries, solar etc. However, a detailed analysis indicated that the 2 x AGMs and the 250A alternator ours came with, would be more than enough. In 2 1/2 years of use (mostly ~6day camping trips, off-grid, in the wilds), we have never seen less that 75% SOC on the 2 OEM AGMs. For us, the two game changers that made this possible were: 1) to utilize the batteries in all of the powered devices that we haul around and to charge them whenever the motor is on (I installed 3 sets of 5V USB and 3 12V charging ports for this) and 2) ditch the Dometic fridge in favor of a high efficiency cooler and then use frozen pre-cooked meals instead of ice. This works well enough to keep everything cold enough for 6-7 days of adventure.

Being able to avoid a house electrical and solar system was a big factor in keeping my fully built-out, fully stocked curb weight to less than 7,800lb.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You could probably make that work, but you might want to be certain that you really need it.

I started out assuming I'd need a full-on house system with batteries, solar etc. However, a detailed analysis indicated that the 2 x AGMs and the 250A alternator ours came with, would be more than enough. In 2 1/2 years of use (mostly ~6day camping trips, off-grid, in the wilds), we have never seen less that 75% SOC on the 2 OEM AGMs. For us, the two game changers that made this possible were: 1) to utilize the batteries in all of the powered devices that we haul around and to charge them whenever the motor is on (I installed 3 sets of 5V USB and 3 12V charging ports for this) and 2) ditch the Dometic fridge in favor of a high efficiency cooler and then use frozen pre-cooked meals instead of ice. This works well enough to keep everything cold enough for 6-7 days of adventure.

Being able to avoid a house electrical and solar system was a big factor in keeping my fully built-out, fully stocked curb weight to less than 7,800lb.
Great approach. I’ve definite gotten to a minimalism phase after a half dozen truck campers, couple of fifth wheels, a class A and a Newell Coach. In my Transit everything is light and removable: twin bed and dometic fridge are about it outside of some camping gear (genesis system and couple of light weight camp chairs) and riding gear in tubs.

I do think I will need the 100aH LiPo to drive an inverter for two necessities: electric blanket is how I manage cold temps (love not having an aux propane or diesel heater)…and to charge my eBike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You could leave the vehicle system as is and put the house system under the passengers seat. Search around for the posts from @AzB on such a set up.
I have immediately thought, great idea! But…I have factory rear heat and AC. Isn’t there a heating apparatus under passenger seat? Is there room for a battery with that?
 

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I have immediately thought, great idea! But…I have factory rear heat and AC. Isn’t there a heating apparatus under passenger seat? Is there room for a battery with that?
Yes, rear heat unit is under the passenger seat.
No, no room for a battery under there is you have the rear heat option.

In your initial post, be aware that the CCP posts are fed by the factory battery system, so anything attached to them will draw down the starting battery, it doesn't seem like you would gain much by removing a factory battery and putting a house battery there.

Following the model of @OldMadBrit or placing the house system in an alternative location as @njvagabond suggests will be a simpler solution.
 

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placing the house system in an alternative location
Another option is to utilized the cavities in the wall behind the drivers seat for the electrical components (other than the battery). Search for the post from @gregoryx on the one he installed for a friend (not his larger version in his van). If you cant find it, I would not be surprised if he chimes in with the link
 

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But, you will only have one battery available for starting. Depending on battery condition, weather, and etc. you may be pressing your luck. Jumper cables or a parallel connecting solenoid for emergency startup should be considered.


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Another option is to utilized the cavities in the wall behind the drivers seat for the electrical components (other than the battery).
While my electrical setup is super basic and just using the factory dual batteries, that is where mine are.
 

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I have the factory dual battery config in my 2020 Crew super-minimalist build.

Find the factory dual batteries Kind of low value …as it comes from factory connected parallel for cabin 12VDC/115AC use with out a some sort of automatic charge down separation device (solenoid, etc) IMO…I would not want to run other cabin devices off of this setup (inverter, domestic cooler) for fear of running down the dual bank and not being able to start the van.

My plan:

Remove the secondary AGM.

Terminate the factory chassis 12VDC connection at the primary AGM.

Use the open battery compartment slot to house a 100Ah LiPo battery.

Connect a renology dc2dc (50A) charger from the CCV to manage engine-on charging of the house LiPo battery.

Connect inverter and other devices to the CCV and mount in the cabin.

Solution: house battery is mounted safely without using cabin space.

Analysis?
Assuming LiFe battery vs LiPo, still more or less limited to < 1000 watts on the inverter side, possibly closer to 600.

Agree with the others - removing the second AGM starter battery adds some risk to the van operating stability. I did some tests at my shop and it is actually pretty amazing what happens as the battery capability goes too low when there are some large loads.
 
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