Ford Transit USA Forum banner

41 - 60 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
@ Sport Coupe, when you say "Mach 8 Plus 13.5k btu roof air (with easy start) will run off either van or house batteries but not for long"
You mean that when you say not for long ?
You're just talking about the house battery correct?
It will run on the the van alternator continuously ? ,,,,Or am i wrong , Thanks.
Just the house battery of course. Running off the starter battery with engine just above idle it will run till I run out of gas.

Now I need a simple way to bump up the idle a couple hundred rpm when parked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Tried a stick, it doesn't provide constant rpm, varies too much.
I made a square stick with a male eyebolt screwed into one end. Eyebolt hole goes on the existing seat socket head bolt head. Rotate stick to change rpm. Works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
That's an advanced stick! :D
It was difficult to keep stick in place and to adjust the rpm. The eyebolt solved that. Stick held in place when eyebolt is over the socket head bolt head and then twist to increase/decrease RPM. Did add a rubber disc spacer on top of eyebolt to keep eyebolt on the bolt head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Starter battery is directly connected to inverter with 2/0 cable through a 3 position selector switch. This switch is so I can connect the house battery directly to the inverter.

I have dual batteries and 250A HD alternator.

Yes, the Mach 8 Plus 13.5k btu roof air (with easy start) will run off either van or house battery. The house battery wouldn't last very long though so that will never happen, I just tested it to see current draw of the ac including inverter loss. It pulled 113 amps from house battery as read on my Victron running on low cool. 126 amps on high cool.
10 extra wide

Thanks! Assume you meant "starter battery" above. When you have the start batt connected tot he inverter, is the house batt also connected? I'm guessing the 3 posit switch is so you can direct connect the start to inverter or run the start thru a B-2-B to charge the house. That was my orig design which I scrapped and just connected the start thru the sterling 120A to the house buss bar to eliminate the switch.

Did your AC start ok w/o the Easy Start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Thanks! Assume you meant "starter battery" above. When you have the start batt connected tot he inverter, is the house batt also connected? I'm guessing the 3 posit switch is so you can direct connect the start to inverter or run the start thru a B-2-B to charge the house. That was my orig design which I scrapped and just connected the start thru the sterling 120A to the house buss bar to eliminate the switch.

Did your AC start ok w/o the Easy Start?
When starter battery is connected to inverter, the house battery is not. The single inverter is shared by the manual 3 position switch I installed. The house battery continued to provide any needed DC loads, it's only the AC power from inverter I made selectable from multiple power sources (starter battery, house battery, shore power or generator).

I don't have a B-2-B, I have a regular shore power charger. It runs from the inverter and I can charge either house or starter battery when configured as such.

I didn't even try the roof air con without the Easy Start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Because my dumb stick didn't work, I made a smart stick much like Orton did.

I installed the smart switch to set it up and I learned something. Due to the heavy load from the roof air con, my 2019 automatically bumped the engine rpm up little by little to maintain a charge on the starter battery. That is why I couldn't get my dumb stick to work. The rpm went up by itself.

I looked up why and can only figure since I didn't have Stationary Elevated Idle Control (SEIC) wired up, it must be Battery Charge Protect (BCP) kicking in. I had thought that must also be wired up to work but apparently not, at least in my vans configuration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,017 Posts
Attached is my updated wire diagram for an alternator powered roof top air con. I added transfer switch circuit breaker and GFCI. I was only sing the GFCI on the inverter but when transfer switch is using shore power, no GFCI was in place to protect people.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
When starter battery is connected to inverter, the house battery is not. The single inverter is shared by the manual 3 position switch I installed. The house battery continued to provide any needed DC loads, it's only the AC power from inverter I made selectable from multiple power sources (starter battery, house battery, shore power or generator).

I don't have a B-2-B, I have a regular shore power charger. It runs from the inverter and I can charge either house or starter battery when configured as such.

I didn't even try the roof air con without the Easy Start.
Thank you for sharing the updated diagram. Where will you have your AC charger connected to the AC?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
670 Posts
Without a shorepower earth ground connection GFCI is kind of pointless.
This is incorrect. A GFCI doesn't need a ground to work. It breaks the circuit if it senses a ground fault (current leak).


In fact, it is highly recommended to replace all old 2 wire, non-grounded, outlets with GFCI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,247 Posts
This is incorrect. A GFCI doesn't need a ground to work. It breaks the circuit if it senses a ground fault (current leak).
Without an actual earth ground what is the point of it? Without a ground a standard 3 prong 120 outlet would be equally safe. (Or equally unsafe.)

A working earth ground is what keeps you safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
From an inspection website "https://forum.nachi.org/"



An ungrounded GFCI "Is Acceptable". A GFCI does not need a ground wire in order to trip properly. A GFCI simply trips when a fault is detected on the neutral wire. And this outlet should be labled "GFCI protected / NO Equipment ground". If no ground; then the outlet must be labled saying that the GFCI is not grounded. They sell the stickers at any of the home improvement stores.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,552 Posts
Without an actual earth ground what is the point of it? Without a ground a standard 3 prong 120 outlet would be equally safe. (Or equally unsafe.)

A working earth ground is what keeps you safe.
Umm, nope. Here's an RV specific reference in addition to the one above.

From: https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-understanding-gfci-part-i/

"Also note that the GFCI doesn’t really need a direct ground connection via the ground wire to do its job. Yes, one is required to properly “earth” the entire circuit, but the current balancing act is only between the black and white wires going to the outlet. If the current flow in the white wire exactly matches the current flow in the black wire to within 5 mA (milliamperes), the circuit stays activated. If the current flow is unmatched by any more than 5 mA, say by someone touching a live wire and the earth at the same time, then the trigger circuit inside trips a little switch and the current flow is stopped. It’s that simple"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
Since we're on the GFCI subject. I tripped my GFCI outlet and the only way I could get it to reset was to plug into shore power. It kind of sucked because I was on a road trip and the only outlet that worked was the one at the inverter. I replaced it with a non-GFCI outlet.
 
41 - 60 of 81 Posts
Top