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It would be a bit of work but you could install a cutoff switch inline somewhere with easy access. This would allow you to unhook the battery easily anytime.
 

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The end of the battery cable ground hooks to a screw under under the floor mat between the seats, Maybe you can splice a disconnect in near the parking brake handle.

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/40554-start-battery-ground.html
That’s a pretty small gauge wire. Are you sure that’s the only point of connection between chassis ground and the negative terminal? I thought I remembered seeing other wires coming off of the battery negative wire terminal under the seat. I would love it if it was that easy, I have the same challenge. And because of my alternator charging stuff, I no longer have room to put in a disconnect switch outside of the battery box.
 

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That’s a pretty small gauge wire. Are you sure that’s the only point of connection between chassis ground and the negative terminal? I thought I remembered seeing other wires coming off of the battery negative wire terminal under the seat. I would love it if it was that easy, I have the same challenge. And because of my alternator charging stuff, I no longer have room to put in a disconnect switch outside of the battery box.
I am thinking that you can search this stuff as easily as I can, I got 40 hits on "battery negative cable connection" concerning the Transit.
this one discusses the cable connection between the seats starting around Post # 115, but the whole thread seems to be related to it.

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/36426-electrical-question-combining-ccp-terminals-12.html

Battery cable sizing:

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/electronics-audio-lighting/32258-what-gauge-oem-battery-cables.html

Good pictures of everything except the negative cable:

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/electronics-audio-lighting/10290-pictures-under-seat-fuses.html#post138730
 

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Thanks for the great write up. I'm stuck on the wrestling part since mine are welded in. Anyone else come across this?


Yes. There may be more sophisticated solutions, but hammer and chisel worked for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Yes. There may be more sophisticated solutions, but hammer and chisel worked for me.
Mine were really in there, even an angle grinder couldn't get them out. So I ended up drilling through the bolts. Finished the installation nicely from there.
 

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On a related note, any good ideas for finishing touches on the parking brake cover after lowering?
I cut mine horizontally just above the 'bulge' and doubled up the sides, holding all together with some VHB tape and a strategically placed screw (not visble).
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Long term review/update

Glad to see how many people found this thread helpful!

85k+ miles and almost 4 years later, I figured I should update this thread with how this modification to the factory mounting held up.

I never got used to the added height of the driver seat with the swivel, so I actually removed it a few months after installation and only had a passenger swivel. I kept the E-brake in the lowered position as I figured there was no point in trying to put it back.

No issues! I believe I mentioned in one of my last posts that I opened up the hole in the lower piece of sheet metal a little, but I also wrapped the brake cable with some sheet metal. (I think I glued it and the zip tie was just to hold till the glue hardened) With the widened hole, the cable wasn't touching, but after some time it looks like it made contact with the frame, so it's a good thing I wrapped it in another layer of steel. No rust, that's just dirt & road grime.

We lived out of the van for 6 months and use it year round for ski and bike trips. I also daily drive the van on a regular basis now, so it's seen most types of road abuse that you can imagine. I'd say this mod passes the test if you want driver swivel seats.
 

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Almost finished installing the driver side scopema swivel today. There were some questions in the thread about the e-break mounting plate and various ways to retain the base plate to protect the impact sensors under the carpet lining. Here are some pics that show the plate installed and a template of the minimal amount of material that can be removed from the base and still clear the e-break plate.

Base cut outs:
131135


Base installed:
131136


With scopema adapter:
131137



Let me know if anyone has any questions.
 

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I'm guessing the answer is no, but has anyone tried this with the factory inverter that mounts in the e-brake?
I have a larger one so I could forego the factory one but it's handy to have an outlet there.
 

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I'm guessing the answer is no, but has anyone tried this with the factory inverter that mounts in the e-brake?
I have a larger one so I could forego the factory one but it's handy to have an outlet there.
mc97,

Didn't use this type of swivel, (swiveling transfer seat used ) but when e-brake was replaced with electronic one, factory inverter was attached to lower seat frame. Works great.

Semper Fi
 

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Lowered ebrake

I lowered my ebrake yesterday. A million thanks to Freeriden and Antoine for the clear and lucid instructions. This project looks daunting but was actually was pretty simple. My advice:
1) take pictures during the battery removal to help you put it back in correctly.
2) use an oscillating saw to remove the welded on nut and to re-configure the baseplate.

The first picture shows how I modified the baseplate. The plate now slides easily under the brake after the brake is re-positioned.
The second picture shows how I modified the upper piece of plastic to allow the brake lever to drop completely down. There is now a slight interference with the rotating seat base that I'll fix by putting 2 washers under the swivel plate to raise it up enough to clear the plastic.
Where did you get that brake lowering bracket? The one sold by eurocampervans does not lower it enough.
 

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Is the DiscousntVanTruck swivel the only one that doesn't support powered seat because it has no hole in the center?
 
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