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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know the speaker size in the doors and how deep it is? Also the tweeter depth in the a pillar?
 

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The speakers are part of a plastic stand-off/pocketed trim ring that requires you to destroy the OEM speakers to use the surround, else your forced into something custom made, as the opening is well over 8"!
I used a set of JL Audio C5's 6.5 components in the door, screwed into the trim ring, and the tweeter in the A-pillar location; Plenty of room.
 

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any hackery needed to seat the door drivers and tweeters? no sheetmetal braces needed or anything?

do you have any pictures?

that's probably my next move: upgrade the drivers in the front. they sound like paper cone drivers - are they?
 

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any hackery needed to seat the door drivers and tweeters? no sheetmetal braces needed or anything? do you have any pictures? that's probably my next move: upgrade the drivers in the front. they sound like paper cone drivers - are they?
No pics, sorry... and yes, $2 paper cone speaker garbage. I had to listen to them at full volume to hear anything at freeway speeds, as I'm sure you're experiencing.
If you sacrifice the stock speakers by removing the rubber surround, and cut the molded plastic speaker basket carrier from behind the mount, you can literally screw 6.5's into the surround and remount. Nothing else needed. OEM Tweeters are friction fit with three tabs. The JL tweeters dropped in, and I used small sheet metal screws behind, to keep them from backing out. The A-pillar covers are metal push clips, just pull off (the passenger side grab handle must be removed first).
 

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As a former Car Audio installer, Hot glue works well to hold tweeters in place. It holds in the heat that a car will experience and it pulls off easy.

Please excuse the long explanation following:
As far a speakers go, JLs are great with power and need a decent amp. If you are looking to power with factory head unit (as I cringe) Pioneer is excellent. They are some of the most efficient speakers out there. You need to check the sensitivity or System efficiency of the speaker. The higher the number the more efficient or louder the speaker will be with less power. Remember that it is measured in dB which is a log scale. 3dB difference is actually double the capability. So a Speaker with a 90dB sensitivity will be double the output with the same power as a 87dB speaker.
 

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any hackery needed to seat the door drivers and tweeters? no sheetmetal braces needed or anything?

do you have any pictures?

that's probably my next move: upgrade the drivers in the front. they sound like paper cone drivers - are they?
I installed a set of Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6.5" components in mine.
There was lots of room for both driver and tweeter.

For mounting the door drivers I just used the adapters that came with the speakers. That left some air space beside, and in front of the speakers, but it still sounds great (I know some people feel strongly about air sealing).

I like GT-Rx's idea of hacking the plastic OE speaker for mounting, I was planning on doing a custom mounting ring when I have more time, but I might just do that instead - as long as the door panel doesn't interfere with the speaker movement at that mounting height.

I mounted the tweeters using the threaded flush-mount cups.
I pried off the OE tweeter mount from the back of the pillar covers, used a hole saw and die grinder to make a hole the right size. Used the die grinder to flatten the plastic ribs on the back near the hole, giving a flat surface for the threaded collar to tighten the cup into position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I always buy Polk audio db speakers. For the money they sound great with just a head unit. I think I'll try components with a small 4 channel amp or maybe 5 channel so I can run the sub. Would a 5 channel be just as good as running two seperate amps?
 

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Great info here. I think replacing the front speakers moved up higher on my to-do list because of it.

I've always been a fan of Boston Acoustics build quality and sound. Anybody try that?

Has anybody added any dynamat or similar while they were in the doors? Does it make any difference in cab quietness?
 

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I like GT-Rx's idea of hacking the plastic OE speaker for mounting, I was planning on doing a custom mounting ring when I have more time, but I might just do that instead - as long as the door panel doesn't interfere with the speaker movement at that mounting height.
It doesn't as the ring is recessed where the speaker mounts.
 

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I always buy Polk audio db speakers. Would a 5 channel be just as good as running two seperate amps? What do you audiofiles think of this hu? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XB10...X-XB100BT.html
Highest power hu out there. No need for an amp.
Polk is decent. A good modern higher-$ 5-channel designed for use with a sub is quite good. I'm not a fan of Sony, nor would I rely on the head unit for sound/power, but that's me.. my $.02.
 

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In the 8 years of installing I never had good luck with Sony Car Audio. Never sounded that great. There numbers never seemed to line up with the Alpine, or Pioneers. This Sony unit gets that power by using a Class D amplifier in the head unit. Class D are not great for running mids and highs and are notorious for being a very noisy amplifier design. I had a class D, and Class FD amplifier and ended up putting them in my teenagers car, because I could hear the distortion in the amp. Pure audiofile wise stick with a seperate Class AB amplifier.

With Speakers, I just saw these at the local shop and were blown away.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165-3-Component-DSK165-3/dp/B008B5JPTS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1434993235&sr=8-6&keywords=hertz+6.5[/ame]

These are superb speakers. I have a set on order now to put in my wifes CRV. But in the shop they sounded awesome with just head unit power. Blew the doors off of my old school Pioneer Competition speakers and my old Image Dynamics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I like those hertz but I already have 6x9 polks in seperate boxes for behind my seat. You think two different brands would sound weird or no?
 

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In the 8 years of installing I never had good luck with Sony Car Audio. Never sounded that great. There numbers never seemed to line up with the Alpine, or Pioneers. This Sony unit gets that power by using a Class D amplifier in the head unit. Class D are not great for running mids and highs and are notorious for being a very noisy amplifier design. I had a class D, and Class FD amplifier and ended up putting them in my teenagers car, because I could hear the distortion in the amp. Pure audiofile wise stick with a seperate Class AB amplifier.

With Speakers, I just saw these at the local shop and were blown away.

http://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165...UTF8&qid=1434993235&sr=8-6&keywords=hertz+6.5

These are superb speakers. I have a set on order now to put in my wifes CRV. But in the shop they sounded awesome with just head unit power. Blew the doors off of my old school Pioneer Competition speakers and my old Image Dynamics.
Impressive reviews too, only 4 and 5 stars.

I bet if someone was to look more into overall feedback of these they would fall right into that range.
 

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Looked at their website...wow, their "Mille" range of speakers are spendy!
They are quite spendy, I would never be able to afford them normally. Back in the day I could.
 
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