Sorry to Jack your feed this is in my mk6 transit
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Door speakers/Tweeter install
I have installed tweeters in top of the door panels tonight. Pictures show locations of screws and removal is pretty straight forward.
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A small flatblade screwdriver is what I use to pry panels loose. I carry it in my pocket everyday for 20 years and have worn out 4 of them so far. . I use the Stanley yellow one.
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This panel (screw cover) is in the door handles. Pops out from the rear and upward. This-for some reason - requires a t20 torx.
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Pocket inside door. I use mine to hold markers and the pop outs I'm working on in this post.
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Inside the grab pocket. These are 9/32 or I think 8mm
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Don't forget bottom of the door. No covers on these.
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Near lock at top/rear :
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Red reflector. It also pops out with screwdriver. Same 9/32 hex as all the rest.
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Screw cover under door pocket. Easy to miss and you can't feel it. It's hard to remove the door panel with this screw in but it's possible. Easier to just take the screw out. This one is ridiculous t25 torx but the t20 you used earlier will work.
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Photo of speaker and door. The black rectangular piece is the door hamdle cable release. Pull on the Square collar on the back of it and it tlts out of the housing to release the cable from the door.
The switch plugs must also be removed. A little fandangling is necessary because you have to hold the door panel up and close to the door while pushing little tabs to pull the plugs out. The passenger door is harder because it's smaller. I remove the whole black window up/down switch housing from the door by pushing the tab at the rear inward and it just pops up and out allowing you to turn around the switch in order to see the push-tab.
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Closeup of handle cable retention housing.
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Drilled a hole where tweeter will go. I used 1" angle mount tweeters. I don't think larger would fit. Be sure to measure before drilling with door closed because if not you'll break off the mount when you shut it.
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Stripped tape and insulation and wrapped and soldered speaker wire to the factory terminals.
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Taped then wire tied the tape. Tape will not stay wrapped inside hot panels. This is the good 3M stuff and I always wire tie my tape.
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All clean and tidy :
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Photo from driver's seat view :
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Photo of passenger door from driver's seat:
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This install was done for a few reasons:
Tweeters brighten music and produce higher frequencies which tend to travel in straighter lines than mid and lower frequencies. Angle mounts on the doors point the tweeter directly at driver and passenger ears so you hear it very clearly. It's amazing! You can test the difference by blocking it with your hand and go back and forth.
This location is out of the way. You won't hit it with your hand (especially in the Transit's long doors) and it won't snag anything entering /exiting the van.
It's much better than A-pillars mounting. They don't point at you and you have to run wires from door and back through jam to dash and up to A-pillars. There's also an airbag to worry about.
This install took about 2 hours. I could do it again in 45 minutes as this was the first time removing the panels in my van.
I think you can buy these poly dome tweeters for 10 bucks on amazon. I already had them. Silk-dome and other exotic materials will be wasted on the higher noise floor of the van and automotive environment. These are very bright sounding and "crispy". Good for older ears and younger ones alike.
Hope yall enjoy.
±+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A small flatblade screwdriver is what I use to pry panels loose. I carry it in my pocket everyday for 20 years and have worn out 4 of them so far. . I use the Stanley yellow one.
This panel (screw cover) is in the door handles. Pops out from the rear and upward. This-for some reason - requires a t20 torx.
Pocket inside door. I use mine to hold markers and the pop outs I'm working on in this post.
Inside the grab pocket. These are 9/32 or I think 8mm
Don't forget bottom of the door. No covers on these.
Near lock at top/rear :
Red reflector. It also pops out with screwdriver. Same 9/32 hex as all the rest.
Screw cover under door pocket. Easy to miss and you can't feel it. It's hard to remove the door panel with this screw in but it's possible. Easier to just take the screw out. This one is ridiculous t25 torx but the t20 you used earlier will work.
Photo of speaker and door. The black rectangular piece is the door hamdle cable release. Pull on the Square collar on the back of it and it tlts out of the housing to release the cable from the door.
The switch plugs must also be removed. A little fandangling is necessary because you have to hold the door panel up and close to the door while pushing little tabs to pull the plugs out. The passenger door is harder because it's smaller. I remove the whole black window up/down switch housing from the door by pushing the tab at the rear inward and it just pops up and out allowing you to turn around the switch in order to see the push-tab.
Closeup of handle cable retention housing.
Drilled a hole where tweeter will go. I used 1" angle mount tweeters. I don't think larger would fit. Be sure to measure before drilling with door closed because if not you'll break off the mount when you shut it.
Stripped tape and insulation and wrapped and soldered speaker wire to the factory terminals.
Taped then wire tied the tape. Tape will not stay wrapped inside hot panels. This is the good 3M stuff and I always wire tie my tape.
All clean and tidy :
Photo from driver's seat view :
Photo of passenger door from driver's seat:
This install was done for a few reasons:
Tweeters brighten music and produce higher frequencies which tend to travel in straighter lines than mid and lower frequencies. Angle mounts on the doors point the tweeter directly at driver and passenger ears so you hear it very clearly. It's amazing! You can test the difference by blocking it with your hand and go back and forth.
This location is out of the way. You won't hit it with your hand (especially in the Transit's long doors) and it won't snag anything entering /exiting the van.
It's much better than A-pillars mounting. They don't point at you and you have to run wires from door and back through jam to dash and up to A-pillars. There's also an airbag to worry about.
This install took about 2 hours. I could do it again in 45 minutes as this was the first time removing the panels in my van.
I think you can buy these poly dome tweeters for 10 bucks on amazon. I already had them. Silk-dome and other exotic materials will be wasted on the higher noise floor of the van and automotive environment. These are very bright sounding and "crispy". Good for older ears and younger ones alike.
Hope yall enjoy.
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Thanks for your help. Just as you said, sickening crunch but much less so knowing I was following footsteps.
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Next question?
behind the speaker discovered there is the female half of a connector. Pretty certain nothing was plugged into it before panel came off and speaker removed. No males halves seem to be in reach. What is it?
behind the speaker discovered there is the female half of a connector. Pretty certain nothing was plugged into it before panel came off and speaker removed. No males halves seem to be in reach. What is it?
Attachments
Wet because I had the door open for a while when I was distracted by another problem that came up. Van had a lot of water everywhere outside because of snow melting when it warmed up last night followed by heavy rain. All you see came from dripping above while exposed. Sadly I have no covered workspace to work in. It has been below freezing weather until today. Adds to the fun of it all
That I couldn't say. They weren't identified as a feature of 10-pt leather seats.
Just discovered another mystery. Thick wiring harness thru floor board to compartment under driver's seat. Two sets of females, quite large, all appearing to end at nothing.
Trying to find out now is if anyone has stripped the driver area down far enough to expose metal floor. Starting to think I need to be talked off the ledge. Can't expose the far reaches of the floor matt without loosening dash it appears. Where did you stop with sound insulation?
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1 - 20 of 28 Posts
