Seems like ball joint threads are scarce here so here's my contribution. I made a ball joint tool based on a design by @txtoth. No heat, no sketchy setups, and no BFH. It doesn't need as tall of a setup area as the Ford tool, so it might work with the knuckle in situ if you're willing to use a big wrench instead of an impact. The design works around a 1/2" thick steel plate that should allow for install as well removal by swapping all nuts to the other side of the plate and driving the M10 nuts instead, but I haven't tested it yet.
Materials
Conclusion
I'm an engineer by day so this was a fun exercise. Its was overkill for my application, but it was still wearing out pretty quickly. Total material cost is $56.07; more than what @txtoth spent, but still beats the Ford tool in price. I might've gotten away with thinner steel by bending flanges in it for rigidity; cost would've been more or less the same given SendCutSend's order minimum.
For repeated use, I would use tougher materials all around: bent chromoly steel plate and grade 10.9 nuts and threaded rods. A big washer under the ball joint nut might keep the plate from wearing as quickly.





Materials
- 1/2" x 3" x 6" steel plate from SendCutSend, $32.16
- M10-1.5mm x 1m grade B7 threaded rod from Grainger, $21.94
- M10-1.5mm flange nuts from Ace Hardware, $1.97
- Existing ball joint nut, $0
Conclusion
I'm an engineer by day so this was a fun exercise. Its was overkill for my application, but it was still wearing out pretty quickly. Total material cost is $56.07; more than what @txtoth spent, but still beats the Ford tool in price. I might've gotten away with thinner steel by bending flanges in it for rigidity; cost would've been more or less the same given SendCutSend's order minimum.
For repeated use, I would use tougher materials all around: bent chromoly steel plate and grade 10.9 nuts and threaded rods. A big washer under the ball joint nut might keep the plate from wearing as quickly.