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Discussion Starter #1
Just got My Chinese diesel heater and I think I’m going to go for the passenger seat installation location. My question to you fine people is - since the fuel input to the heater is in the bottom, making it mandatory for the fuel line to be under the van for at least part of its run, is it advisable to install the small fuel tank under the van? If not under the van, it looks like I must drill yet another hole from under the van for the hose to connect to the fuel tank inside. Baffled but not defeated. Thanks
 

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I mounted a Summit Racing stainless 5 gal tank between frame rails on drivers side. Plenty of room. I don't recall if there was similar space on passenger side but I'm pretty sure there is. The problem is you will have to figure out where to put filler pipe. I did driver's side because i put filler pipe where the DEF filler would go.
 

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Underside tank
My post in a thread about underside diesel heater fuel tank installation. I installed Espar B2 under driver seat, sharing space with the battery. Your challenge may be installing the fuel line from left to right side with continuous rise on the pressure side to prevent air lock.
 

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It took a lot of work. A lot of work. Like all summer to figure, find parts, figure, execute, find more parts, figure some more, execute, etc. Replaced the gasoline van filler assembly with the diesel van filler assembly so I could divert the DEF port for heater fueling. Cut two holes in the metal face of the fueling channel underneath with a hole saw, one for fuel hose and one for tank air vent hose (you need a vent when filling the tank). Cut most of the filler tube assembly off, attached a preformed elbow fuel hose to the DEF port, worked it through the hole and attached it to nylon elbow into top of tank. The diesel filler is slightly shorter than the gas filler, which required modifying a specific Fernco rubber adapter to close the gap to the metal feed ring where one inserts the gasoline pump nozzle. See Filler port body - gas to diesel Made protected hidden outlet to atmosphere for tank venting by drilling hole in center post on the inside of the DEF cap into the retainer strap channel on the outside, threading a brass hose fitting with insect screen onto the post and attaching the vent hose from the tank to the air vent barb of the filler assembly. Topped that off by dying the blue cap green using yellow Rit dye and stamping DIESEL with a harbor freight 1/8" stamp set. See Vented DEF Cap I went with a custom tank from Boyd Welding to maximize clearance, reduce need for adapters and eliminate low points in the fuel system See My tank, but others have used their standard 3 gallon tank at lower cost. http://www.boydwelding.com/ Good people.

ed. note: corrected description of air vent at cap

The tank is supported by a frame of perforated galvanized angle using 5/16" galvanized bolts. A ledger angle is mounted along the bottom of the outboard wall where you can reach into the body to push bolts through holes drilled. Hanger angles supporting the inboard side are fastened to Simpson Tie brackets bolted to body channel along the van gas tank. The aluminum tank is separated from the galvanized steel at all contact points using 1/10" plexiglass under the tank mounting tabs, with nylon washers and sleeves for the bolts.

Like I said - a lot of work. My build was entirely outside in the driveway without lifting the van. Lots of scooching around on my back on a big piece of cardboard, rummaging around for that wrench or bolt I just...set...down...here....a moment ago 🤬

I went with diesel for safety concerns, but in retrospect, a gasoline Espar would have been far less trouble and less total cost despite the higher price for the heater. A propane tank and Propex heater would have be even easier for significantly less cost. I was seduced by technical sweetness 😅[/CODE]
 

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I went nuts trying to figure this out too, and ended up with a much less elegant solution than Aqw1942. It is however very functional and has been working great. I ended up using a vented go-kart tank sealed in a 5 gallon bucket. The fuel and vent lines have quick release fittings so I can remove it if needed, though honestly, I put it in at the end of the summer and have never taken it out.
There are quite a few folks on the Chinese heater forum on FB that have mounted small fuel tanks in the engine compartment. That would work well for an underseat heater mount if you could find a place in the engine compartment where a fuel leak wouldn't turn into an inferno.
I ended up mounting my heater behind the drivers side rear wheel in a 3/4" plywood box, which makes it very, very quiet. The tank is strapped down right behind it.
Now that winter is here, I'd say this is one of the best mods I've done to the van. I even use it just driving around town to keep my dog warm while in running errands.


Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
 

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Perchancetodream's solution is certainly a refinement over mine. But...it needn't take super long to get it going. I think it took one weekend. The hardest part was doing the research for the parts and ordering them not knowing for sure that they would fit. Only thing I'm missing is the sight gauge, but I've just gotten used to filling it every 2 weeks all winter long. I do wish I would have had Boyd's make a bigger tank than the 5-gal though. These are the main Ford parts: Look at Perchance's write up - it is much better than mine. I think HDH wrote it up as well.
1. AU5Z5K204A Cap - Filler Price: $10.12
2. CK4Z5427936G HOUSING - FUEL TANK FILLER PIP Price: $99.60
3. CK4Z5J232A FILLER Price: $129.47
4. Pillar Molding, LEFT BK3Z-6129077-CC 1 $29.36
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It took a lot of work. A lot of work. Like all summer to figure, find parts, figure, execute, find more parts, figure some more, execute, etc. Replaced the gasoline van filler assembly with the diesel van filler assembly so I could divert the DEF port for heater fueling. Cut two holes in the metal face of the fueling channel underneath with a hole saw, one for fuel hose and one for tank air vent hose (you need a vent when filling the tank). Cut most of the filler tube assembly off, attached a preformed elbow fuel hose to the DEF port, worked it through the hole and attached it to nylon elbow into top of tank. The diesel filler is slightly shorter than the gas filler, which required modifying a specific Fernco rubber adapter to close the gap to the metal feed ring where one inserts the gasoline pump nozzle. See Filler port body - gas to diesel Made protected hidden outlet to atmosphere for tank venting by drilling hole in center post on the inside of the DEF cap into the retainer strap channel on the outside, threading a brass hose fitting with insect screen onto the post and attaching the vent hose from the tank to the air vent barb of the filler assembly. Topped that off by dying the blue cap green using yellow Rit dye and stamping DIESEL with a harbor freight 1/8" stamp set. See Vented DEF Cap I went with a custom tank from Boyd Welding to maximize clearance, reduce need for adapters and eliminate low points in the fuel system See My tank, but others have used their standard 3 gallon tank at lower cost. http://www.boydwelding.com/ Good people.

ed. note: corrected description of air vent at cap

The tank is supported by a frame of perforated galvanized angle using 5/16" galvanized bolts. A ledger angle is mounted along the bottom of the outboard wall where you can reach into the body to push bolts through holes drilled. Hanger angles supporting the inboard side are fastened to Simpson Tie brackets bolted to body channel along the van gas tank. The aluminum tank is separated from the galvanized steel at all contact points using 1/10" plexiglass under the tank mounting tabs, with nylon washers and sleeves for the bolts.

Like I said - a lot of work. My build was entirely outside in the driveway without lifting the van. Lots of scooching around on my back on a big piece of cardboard, rummaging around for that wrench or bolt I just...set...down...here....a moment ago 🤬

I went with diesel for safety concerns, but in retrospect, a gasoline Espar would have been far less trouble and less total cost despite the higher price for the heater. A propane tank and Propex heater would have be even easier for significantly less cost. I was seduced by technical sweetness 😅[/CODE]
I'm far too impatient to go through all that, but dang that's sweet
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I went nuts trying to figure this out too, and ended up with a much less elegant solution than Aqw1942. It is however very functional and has been working great. I ended up using a vented go-kart tank sealed in a 5 gallon bucket. The fuel and vent lines have quick release fittings so I can remove it if needed, though honestly, I put it in at the end of the summer and have never taken it out.
There are quite a few folks on the Chinese heater forum on FB that have mounted small fuel tanks in the engine compartment. That would work well for an underseat heater mount if you could find a place in the engine compartment where a fuel leak wouldn't turn into an inferno.
I ended up mounting my heater behind the drivers side rear wheel in a 3/4" plywood box, which makes it very, very quiet. The tank is strapped down right behind it.
Now that winter is here, I'd say this is one of the best mods I've done to the van. I even use it just driving around town to keep my dog warm while in running errands.


Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
I'd consider this placement, but I have a 148, standard length, which gives me only 13"
 

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I'd consider this placement, but I have a 148, standard length, which gives me only 13"
Yeah, on the extended I had a perfect size opening for the mounting plate. I don't know what the standard looks like from below, but here's a few shots of the extended mounting.


Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
 
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