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Covering exposed metal with fabric

23K views 44 replies 25 participants last post by  Calaverasgrande 
#1 ·
OK -- I have seen this in at least two van-build type threads as well as scattered elsewhere. However, I can only find a couple of them. And it would be useful to consolidate the discussion in one place.

I want to cover the exposed metal -- left over after putting on my sheets of wall cladding -- with fabric or fabric and insulation.


  • [dirt]Bag End covered exposed metal with Low-E and then covered that with cotton/poly fabric from JoAnn
  • Advanturing covered wall panels and exposed metal with fabric sourced from Van Sepcialities

It looks like in both cases 3M-90 was used as the adhesive.

I would like to cover exposed metal with the wrappable/conformable/moldable automotive fabric that I have variously heard described as "trunk liner," "trunk carpet," "speaker box cloth", "needlepunch" and Flexform. In a couple of places I'd put it over Low-E first.

In any case, it needs to be unbacked so that it is conformable. And it needs to be non-woven (ie, won't ravel). Regular Indoor/Outdoor carpet would not be thin enough to wrap tightly to curves.

QUESTIONS:

  • Are there any show-stoppers to using this material (whatever it is)?
  • Has anyone done this (posts?)
  • What exactly should I be looking for in my google searches?
  • Any recommendations for sources for material?
I can get "speaker cloth" at a shop aboaut 35 miles away or $14/yard (ouch!). I think I found the same stuff online but since I'm not really sure what I'm searching for I haven't bought.


Other suggestions?


Thanks!
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Adhesives for Wall Covering

Revisiting this topic, I was curious what adhesives were preferred for attaching things like Hull Liner and Indoor/Outdoor carpet to walls, metal, etc.

Looking for options to the Spray Adhesives like the 3M 90 which would require masking of surfaces you don't want to get overspray on. What have folks used successfully?

There is a product on the Lowes website, DAP Weldwood Contact Cement that looks promising
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-Weldwo...Adhesive-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3819177

Gorilla Glue polyurethane adhesive is another at Lowes, though it seems rather pricey. Unless the coverage is superb, as they mention 3X expansion on the label.

Feedback on these and others that worked well would be appreciated.
 
#6 ·
Gorilla Glue expansion is not something you want. That's expansion as in foaming to fill gaps. Even if you could spread the stuff uniformly, your fabric will end up lumpy. I suggest checking whether 3M has its 90 formulation available in a bottle so you can brush it on the metal while still using the spray formulation on the back of the fabric.
 
#9 ·
I used Foss hulliner and Weldwood Landau top contact cement from Perfect Fit.

I had tried 3M 90 but found the Weldwood far superior and easy to spray or brush on.

The hulliner is very easy to shape, like around the header over the sliding door.

I glued the liner onto 3mm (⅛”) ply for the walls and ceiling, but where I covered the metal I used stick on Velcro. The male side glued to the metal in strategic places was perfect for holding the hulliner. Sometimes I want to get behind the fabric to run a wire or antenna.
 
#10 ·
Weldwood Landau top contact cement from Perfect Fit.
I had tried 3M 90 but found the Weldwood far superior and easy to spray or brush on.

I don't see any bulk package less than 1 gallon for Weldwood Landau Top & Trim High Heat Resistant Contact Cement to get the adhesive in brush-on form. Did you buy the 1 gallon can and use spray gear instead of the aerosol can package?
 
#12 · (Edited)
I've been researching this myself. I've seen really good results with 4-way stretch carpet over an underlayment of peel-and-stick ~3mm closed-cell foam. The foam evens out the micro surface details and provides a really nice feeling backing, and somewhat insulated thermal barrier, for the carpet. I'm still trying to find a US vendor for the foam which is very similar to a wetsuit material. I've seen it applied over reflectix, which was applied directly to metal, to negate the "crunchy" feel and sound. Although I'm not sure the reflectix really provides any Rvalue in that application.
 
#13 ·
Sleep pads for backpackers. Reviewers state the "war surplus" GI issue pads are not worth the money for sleeping, but great for insulation. Cheap. My neighborhood outfitter, 1971, sold 1/2" thinsulate/thinsulite from a 54" roll. Cheap for a great product. I have no real idea what insulation material is used in "soft-side coolers".
 
#14 ·
DAP weldwood will be the best glue for upholstery work, sprays or brushes easy and is good in high temps. Only bad is its expensive and flammable when wet so some places wont ship it. You might have to tape off areas in the van you dont want glue on.

Fabric I would suggest is the trunk-liner it will be super stretchy in all directions, hides uneven surface, blends together very well and cheap. Bad things about it, it can be pulled too far/thin and you might be able to see through it, stuff sticks to it like lint and fuzzy stuff, glue might soak through if applied to heavy and not very many colors.

It looks like Advanturing is using an auto tweed fabric. Which would be good as well, blends together well, lots of colors but more expensive and not quite as stretchy. You can see in a couple of his photos he has to use multiple pieces sometimes. It will fray too unless cut with a hot knife.
You can use foams too for a better feel but if your not going to touch it then why bother. Its also a one time shot, the foam tends too rip if you try to reposition anything.
 
#15 ·
I use 3M contact cement to install Tolex on guitar amps and cabinets. I have yet to see any peel off. I have not tried it on painted metal, but I don't see why it would be different.

You gave me an idea, I think I'll put Tolex on the exposed ceiling ribs of my van. Now to decide on a color/texture; like a Marshall JCM? Maybe a Fender Twin Reverb? Or a little wilder, like the Python on a Splawn? The choices are unlimited.
 
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#17 ·
Alas, there is no leopard print Tolex! 3 different kinds of snakes, alligator, crocodile, buffalo, elephant, ostrich, ZEBRA, but no leopard for some reason. I'm inclined to go with white python, but the shape and size of the ribs, it might freak me out if I'm half awake and looking at the ceiling.
 

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#20 ·
There's a combination of adhesive and fabric I recommend avoiding. I used Polymat 777 to adhere vinyl fabric to both wood paneling and bare metal surfaces in my conversion. It seemed to work well initially. On my first extended road trip across Nevada with outside temperatures exceeding 100, the vinyl on my sliding door metal came loose and wouldn't re-stick. The adhesive had become gooey and stuck better to my fingers than the surfaces.
After returning home, I re-read the application instructions on the adhesive can and found a reference to "bond failure" due to "plasticizer migration" into the adhesive. I looked up plasticizer migration and found a reference that described adhesives "turning to goo" due to it.
I've stripped off the remaining vinyl that's coming loose, laboriously removed the gooey adhesive with LOTS of lacquer thinner (and an appropriate face mask/ventilation/impermeable gloves) and will apply a different fabric that doesn't have plasticizer.
I don't know if ALL such combinations of adhesive and fabric will fail as mine did, but I recommend caution and lots of research before applying vinyl with spray adhesives.
 
#21 ·
I'm researching this topic but couldn't find too many threads. I have a cargo van (medium roof) BUT with all around factory windows. I want to carpet all the metal surfaces and then use the factory black interior wall liners under the windows with the push in clips so they are removable. But the metal is like swiss cheese, holes everywhere!! So if I understand correctly, people are recommending a 3mm closed cell foam to glue on to the metal and then the stretchable trunk type carpeting glued over the foam? Will the foam underlayment be sturdy enough to span over the big holes and not show depressions through the carpeting? Will it make for a nice flat looking finished product that won't show depressions or lumps? I'm thinking of using a grey carpet so I'm thinking I should find a grey or black foam underlayment so it doesn't show through? I'm also thinking brush on glue on the metal walls to avoid overspray and then spray for the back of the carpet. If this goes well, I may even attempt the doors. Am I on the right track or am I missing anything?

As a side note, before I started researching, I was considering a similar plan but with a wood veneer underlayment instead on closed cell foam. I thought it would thin enough to bend but stronger to span over the holes.
 
#22 ·
I glued a tweed auto fabric to the metal around the slider door, behind the driver door and the surround of the rear opening. Also, to a wood shelf above the front seats.


I used 3M 90 and it has held up quite well. I did use 3M 77 in a pinch because I ran out of 90 and needed to finish a section. I've had to be press down this section again several times after the fact to get it to stick, so I wouldn't recommend using 77. I used a thin piece of cardboard to prevent overspray in the van and it worked out fairly well. I did have to clean up a few sections that I did get some adhesive on. And to cover any holes, I used Gorilla duct tape, which isn't 100% perfect in hiding them, but better than nothing.
Daytime Wood Building Plant Tree
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Fixture Bumper
Bicycle Wheel Bicycle frame Automotive tire Tire
 
#29 ·
I glued a tweed auto fabric to the metal around the slider door, behind the driver door and the surround of the rear opening. Also, to a wood shelf above the front seats.


I used 3M 90 and it has held up quite well. I did use 3M 77 in a pinch because I ran out of 90 and needed to finish a section. I've had to be press down this section again several times after the fact to get it to stick, so I wouldn't recommend using 77. I used a thin piece of cardboard to prevent overspray in the van and it worked out fairly well. I did have to clean up a few sections that I did get some adhesive on. And to cover any holes, I used Gorilla duct tape, which isn't 100% perfect in hiding them, but better than nothing. View attachment 160486 View attachment 160487 View attachment 160488
Did you remove some of the items, like the handle, before installing the fabric, and then reinstalled them? It does look nice.
 
#25 ·
I had three things to add to this thread.

#1 Scotch strapping tape 8896 or Stan's tubeless tape is great to put over holes before covering with fabric.You can't see where the holes are once covered with fabric.

#2 Earlier in this thread I mentioned using Tolex (guitar amp cover material). I did it in my van In areas near the stove and sink back in 2018. Used 3m90 to adhere. It looked great for awhile, but then started to wrinkle - don't do it! I redid parts of it last year with Weldwood Landau top adhesive and that seems to have worked.

#3 3m90 has been 100% effective for adhering Marathon fabric straight to steel. Has held up for four years without a problem.
 
#27 ·
Watched the Sprinter van video thanks. So now I need to narrow down the method that covers the gaping holes the strongest without showing any indents or depressions. There's strong tape, reflectix, 3mm closed-cell foam, or my idea that I don't see anywhere which is thin wood veneer. Any input on which one of these make the most sense to cover the holes and make a good underlayment for the carpet?
 
#28 ·
Will just weigh in with my experience in that 3M 90 and Marathon Tweed worked well for me.
 
#34 ·
Someone mentioned Tolex amp covering?
I don't think that would work. It's very stiff and doesnt bend around curves. Look at any Tolex covered amp and they have to do clever concealed cuts wherever there are curves.
(not bends, curves)
There are spray on and roll on products that look similar. Kind of like spray on bedliner with a different hardness.
I'm almost certainly going to buy a few yards of this stuff at Parts Express. A speaker building hobbyist site.
It's a carpet product kind of similar to Tolex, but a little bit more stretch.
I am still exploring options. Might try to find some kind of thin padding to go underneath. I like the idea of an 1/8th-1/4 inch of neoprene. At least to provide a thermal break, and a tiny bit of padding for those elbow and knee bangs.
May use the roll on version of Duratex for my floors and a couple exposed wood bits. Should have gotten that done sooner, but I got sidetracked on finding some other materials and getting them shipped.
 
#39 ·
Someone mentioned Tolex amp covering?
I don't think that would work. It's very stiff and doesnt bend around curves. Look at any Tolex covered amp and they have to do clever concealed cuts wherever there are curves.
(not bends, curves)
There are spray on and roll on products that look similar. Kind of like spray on bedliner with a different hardness.
I'm almost certainly going to buy a few yards of this stuff at Parts Express. A speaker building hobbyist site.
It's a carpet product kind of similar to Tolex, but a little bit more stretch.
I am still exploring options. Might try to find some kind of thin padding to go underneath. I like the idea of an 1/8th-1/4 inch of neoprene. At least to provide a thermal break, and a tiny bit of padding for those elbow and knee bangs.
May use the roll on version of Duratex for my floors and a couple exposed wood bits. Should have gotten that done sooner, but I got sidetracked on finding some other materials and getting them shipped.
You can heat it up a bit and it will stretch around a curve. But...agreed, it is not ideal. The bigger issue is a compound curve. That creates a big problem.
 
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