Even though you have dual alternators, is there still a maximum amperage you can get out of a CCP2 site under he seat to use to power a Battery to Battery charging unit for the house battery?
Landcruiser
It listed as “primary” in various part diagrams, and someone monitored temp and current and confirmed it does most of the work. Unfortunately I think it almost always is doing more work than the secondary, secondary mostly kicks in when the first is getting maxed out I believe. No idea why Ford would set them up that way.
Early model direct battery connection will give you over 1,000 amps if only for a few seconds, Which is often the usage norm outside oi the camper van world.
I have the 2020 wiring diagrams, It shows the outputs of both alternators being wired in parallel as well as the bcm control circuitry. I do not know how to copy/past PDFs or what ever you call it
I have the 2020 wiring diagrams, It shows the outputs of both alternators being wired in parallel as well as the bcm control circuitry. I do not know how to copy/past PDFs or what ever you call it
This thread, Van goth gave everybody on the forum the complete 2020 service manual with all of the wiring diagrams for Free. The transit forum admin removed the link two hours later.
I have a 2016 but I said what the heck it is free and I downloaded the 2020.
www.fordtransitusaforum.com
I have a 2016 but I said what the heck it is free and I downloaded the 2020.
Free Ford Workshop Service Manual & Wiring Guide PDF
Since I bought this on ebay for $40, and the seller claims repeatedly this is public domain information which violates no copyright laws, I see no reason why I shouldn't post it here for others. It should have been included with the vehicle. This is the 2020 version but since that was the last...
www.fordtransitusaforum.com
Short answer to your question: 175A max; 150A realistic; and it /might/ draw that even on idle - and /maybe/ even when the engine auto-shuts-off.
Blending the above posts and adding our observations:
Assuming that calling it, "CCP2," means you have a 2020+ unit. Previous to 2020, there was either one or three identical 60A fused terminals; 2020+ have either only one 60A or one 60A and one 175A fused terminals.
That 175A fused terminal is what many of us have used with a 150A circuit breaker - logic being better to pop an easily accessible breaker than dig under the seat for that 175A fuse. FWIW, CCP2 also has a 190A relay on it; it turns on/off with engine on/off - but does NOT turn off when the engine turns off at a stoplight, for example.
When the engine turns off and there's a big load on CCP2, the voltage will drop a LOT - to under 12VDC. This causes problems with many / most of the DC-DC units as they are often triggered (by default config) on voltage; many of them shut off when they see the drop in voltage. Some folks have found ways around this with some installs; others seem to still have troubles even with the same equipment. The all-in-one / solar-generator units seem to have more trouble with this from reports on here - and often seem unfixable for some folks.
Our experience with our 2020 has been quite positive with pulling 150A regularly from CCP2 - even at idle. I can't speak to why our setup works; but it has worked for a couple other people who have done the same setup. We're running a DC-AC-DC setup to charge our main batteries: there is an inverter attached to CCP2 and that inverter drives the Multiplus inverter-charger, which charges the batteries. We're able to limit the charge rate from zero to 50A - so we keep it at 13A @ 120VAC, which is ~150A @ 12VDC. The main reason I'm detailing this is that we consistently get 150A at idle - though the voltage drops down to mid-11s at times; thanks to dual starter batteries, it's never been a problem.
The reason I'm pointing that out - based on observed / measured data for over a year - is that it's inconsistent with what @ArgonautVans comments above: we actually get 150A at idle - and even when the engine turns off. It may also be worth noting that the "smart alternator" aspect of the Transit means that the voltage may not be ~14+ even at highway speeds or on idle depending on what the system thinks it "needs" - meaning it will actually drop voltage even with the engine ON at idle.
SO... it's a bit of a mess compared to old-school simple stuff.
So your next question should be about what methods of DC-DC (or DC-AC-DC) will work best for you or not. 😏
Blending the above posts and adding our observations:
Assuming that calling it, "CCP2," means you have a 2020+ unit. Previous to 2020, there was either one or three identical 60A fused terminals; 2020+ have either only one 60A or one 60A and one 175A fused terminals.
That 175A fused terminal is what many of us have used with a 150A circuit breaker - logic being better to pop an easily accessible breaker than dig under the seat for that 175A fuse. FWIW, CCP2 also has a 190A relay on it; it turns on/off with engine on/off - but does NOT turn off when the engine turns off at a stoplight, for example.
When the engine turns off and there's a big load on CCP2, the voltage will drop a LOT - to under 12VDC. This causes problems with many / most of the DC-DC units as they are often triggered (by default config) on voltage; many of them shut off when they see the drop in voltage. Some folks have found ways around this with some installs; others seem to still have troubles even with the same equipment. The all-in-one / solar-generator units seem to have more trouble with this from reports on here - and often seem unfixable for some folks.
Our experience with our 2020 has been quite positive with pulling 150A regularly from CCP2 - even at idle. I can't speak to why our setup works; but it has worked for a couple other people who have done the same setup. We're running a DC-AC-DC setup to charge our main batteries: there is an inverter attached to CCP2 and that inverter drives the Multiplus inverter-charger, which charges the batteries. We're able to limit the charge rate from zero to 50A - so we keep it at 13A @ 120VAC, which is ~150A @ 12VDC. The main reason I'm detailing this is that we consistently get 150A at idle - though the voltage drops down to mid-11s at times; thanks to dual starter batteries, it's never been a problem.
The reason I'm pointing that out - based on observed / measured data for over a year - is that it's inconsistent with what @ArgonautVans comments above: we actually get 150A at idle - and even when the engine turns off. It may also be worth noting that the "smart alternator" aspect of the Transit means that the voltage may not be ~14+ even at highway speeds or on idle depending on what the system thinks it "needs" - meaning it will actually drop voltage even with the engine ON at idle.
SO... it's a bit of a mess compared to old-school simple stuff.
So your next question should be about what methods of DC-DC (or DC-AC-DC) will work best for you or not. 😏
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