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That sure is. Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your van build, it’s gonna be awesome.Is that Paulina Lake??? Oh man, you’re killing me! Stuck here in Wisconsin trying to build this van!
That sure is. Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your van build, it’s gonna be awesome.Is that Paulina Lake??? Oh man, you’re killing me! Stuck here in Wisconsin trying to build this van!
I did the same with a chinese diesel heater. Works great in the D pillarAdded a portable diesel heater for the winter months that connects to a fitting on the D-Pillar. Used a shower drain with a metal drain screen as the connector. This heater is a 5 kW self contained unit with a remote and am pleasantly surprised with it so far. And thanks to this purchase I am now fluent in Mandarin. I bought it for like a hundred dollars plus handful of low expectations, and in return I got something that is very portable and works pretty well. When I want to use it I put it under van near the back tire and hook up the hot air pipe to the D-pillar, takes 10 seconds. Definitely not as efficient as having the heat exchanger on the inside but I can still get through quite a few nights on gallon of diesel or kerosene, and don't have to worry about catching the 1000lbs of petroleum based van insulation on fire or saturating my hemoglobin with CO. Plus I get to store the thing in the shed for the 9 months that I don't actually need it. THANKS CHINA! View attachment 153626
I also added the aluminess spare tire carrier. The thing is great, however I think they mine the aluminum from scratch for every purchase; It took about 6 months to get it. But very happy with the quality, everything fit perfectly.
I thought it was never going to work, but so far its been great. Only gave me a hard time firing up once at 8500ft of elevation, though it did eventually run, it just took a few tries. It puts out an impressive amount of heat.I did the same with a chinese diesel heater. Works great in the D pillar
I designed a piece that basically covers and inserts under the van in the D pillar area, where those large rectangular grommets are. I designed it with an inset/female screw/thread so I can screw and unscrew a cap (when not in use) and a hose with male hose threaded adapter for use. I just screw on the hose under the van and attach the other end to my heater. Within the D pillar I ran a hose (the hose that came with heater, its dual lined dryer vent style hose) and had it exit the D pillar as seen in the interior shot above. That outlet is just a plastic outlet that came with the heater. It rotates to direct heat up/left/right/down. I did not run any other further hoses within the van for directing the heat. On full blast this 5kw really pumps.@Tcaschy021, @lincolnjbutler
Can you provide some details on how you made your d-pillar adaptors?
Also, did you add any vent piping on the inside of the van to direct the hot air.
Thanks
Are you sitting down? I have some bad news to tell you all that is going to be difficult to hear. I am sorry to tell you all this, but my Keypad passed away unexpectedly on 2/7/2022. It was only 26 months old.After 5 months of debating what I should use as a back up plan in case I ever lock my keys in the Van or lose them while mountain biking, I finally took the chance and bought a Ford OEM keypad.
I initially assumed this would likely be a headache to install after a quick pass through the interwebs. However this had to be the easiest thing I have done to the transit. I did not realize the key pad was actually just a key fob with a code and an adhesive back. It required no wiring, or modification to the van at all, besides sticking it to the door. Took about 6 minutes from opening the box to cracking a beer in celebration.
Steps to installing a key pad on a 2015 Transit.
1. Buy the right Keypad. ~70$ (https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Genuine-ES7Z-14A626-Keyless-Keypad/dp/B00UN3YS3E) comes with a card that contains a factory set code
2. Gather all your other Key fobs (important, see below ***).
3. Turn the ignition to the 'on' (not start) position 4 times ending with it in the off position. You will hear a chime, indicating the system is ready to pair/activate key fobs. (some newer transit require 8 cycles on and off).
4. Press any button on key fob #1 (vehicle will chime if paired)
5. Do the same for any additional key fobs you own (vehicle will chime again), repeat until you have activated all the key fobs for this vehicle. (*If you do not do this the system will forget any key fobs not activated during this sequence)
6. Now on the new key pad, press the 7/8 and 9/0 keys at the same time (vehicle will chime if paired).
7. Lock the doors and test the factory code.
8. If it unlocks you are ready to stick the key pad on your door. (You can also set your own personal code if you desire in addition to the factory code, clear instructions will come with the key pad)
SAY It ISNT SO?But if you search you will find that others have done battery transplants that brought their keypads back to life.
ITS ALIVE~!Should You Find that resuscitation fails may I suggest cremation. Services could be held in the most used room in your house insuring a memorable experience for all in attendance. Respirators optional.
And I was just about to send a fruit basket.ITS ALIVE~!
Took about 13 seconds to take apart, 4 seconds to put new CR2032 battery in it. et viola
I found this out after spending $90 on a replacement; good thing MOAR IS WAY BETTERER.
This was very helpful for pairing the new versions of the key pads to pre 2000 vans. asdrew to the rescue.
I went to use it after 2 weeks of neglecting the van and the keypad backlighting started to flash when I touched the first button in the code, but it went into full arrest before I could get the fifth digit in, it never open up the doors, and required a full transplant.@lincolnjbutler - Curious if there was any kinda low battery warning? I love my keypad but worry about getting locked out one day due to relying on it.