[sovamind]

My panels are hooked up through the factory provided holes in the roof at the front of the vehicle. I did not bother buying any fancy cable entry glands and just made sure that the RTV silicone held everything firmly in place. No problems with 50,000 miles on the van now. I also have wires for the various antennas on the whole on the other side done the same way also with no problems.

 

[Michael Ophus]

In the past I've used the Scanstrut right angle gland DSH10. I'm used to using this type of gasketed gland on boat decks and like them. The DSH10 is a right angle gland so no big loop sticking up like from the typical boat gland that sends the wire straight up from the surface.

View attachment 183713

There was a downside though: Unless I wanted to use two of them for a pair of wires (I didn't), I had to use a workaround. With the DSH10 it would perfectly accept an Ancor 12AWG round duplex cable, so that was nice; but that meant I had to transition to that cable, then transition again once inside (because I wanted larger than 12AWG for the inside run). Pain. Plus if you don't already have a stash of 12AWG round, it's not so easy to find (most duplex is flat, at least with the cables I use).

Recently Scanstrut came out with the DSHD6. This is a single gland that will take a pair of cables. There are three different size seals included so it will fit a variety of wire sizes (centered around 10AWG or so). One set is un-drilled so you can customize if.

I haven't installed one yet, but I did order one, receive it, and lay out the parts and pieces on the workbench. I'm pleased with it and will be using them for various projects going forward. Good faying surface, good seal, low profile, flexibility in the wire sizes. It does need to be round cable, so if you wanted to use a single flat duplex wire (without removing the outer jacket) you'd still be better off to get a single gland and drill a sort of "infinity" shape into the un-drilled seal they often include. But for a pair of wires, I really like this one.

Here is what the Scanstrut DSDH6 looks like (the MC-4 cables are just an example). It is smaller in person that I (somehow) envisioned from the photos. Very tidy.


View attachment 183709

View attachment 183710

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Nice! People have asked about that in the past not wanting to remove the plugs from their solar panel cords, This is the first time anyone has posted a fix for that.

 

[Calaverasgrande]

I think just about any one piece plastic gadget with a rubber sleeve that compresses with a nut will do.
The key thing is to get something to bond that sucker to the roof so no water will penetrate.
I used 3m 5200 from West Marine. It is not cheap, but it's one of those one and done kind of things.
I've a friend who does boat repairs and it was on his recommendation.

 

[Jolly Roger]

I used a scanstrut product as well. This one gives you up to 4 cables to pass thru. Scanstrut DS-Multi Multi Deck Seal https://a.co/d/dnpu5s7

It is a marine product so UV degradation is not an issue. I used this to pass 2 PV cables thru, but I still have room to add 2 more wires for futyre ext. lighting

 

[orton]

Nice! People have asked about that in the past not wanting to remove the plugs from their solar panel cords, This is the first time anyone has posted a fix for that.

I also did not want to remove the MC4 connectors from the solar panel in case the panel needed to be replaced someday. Looped the panel cords under the panel to shorten them. Then coupled the MC4 connectors together between the roof entry and the panel.

The matching MC4 connectors were obtained by buying a MC4 extension cable and cutting it in two that provided a MC4 on one end and a cut cord end on the other end that I fed through the roof 90 degree cord bulkhead fittings.

See post # 8 for pictures.

 

[Michael Ophus]

I also did not want to remove the MC4 connectors from the solar panel in case the panel needed to be replaced someday. Looped the panel cords under the panel to shorten them. Then coupled the MC4 connectors together between the roof entry and the panel.

The matching MC4 connectors were obtained by buying a MC4 extension cable and cutting it in two that provided a MC4 on one end and a cut cord end on the other end that I fed through the roof 90 degree cord bulkhead fittings.

See post # 8 for pictures.

I was not talking about you. What ever you did, You did a year before I got here.

 

[Boondox]

Just thought I'd add that I went with the Scanstrut. I have it installed and it looks tight. @Vanaroo , thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Scalf77]

Just thought I'd add that I went with the Scanstrut. I have it installed and it looks tight. @Vanaroo , thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, thanks for that information the DS-HD6 will probably become my new go to solar cable gland.

 

[Hein]

We have versions of our entry puck that accept 2 or 4 wires.
All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

Solar Entry Puck

Low profile solar entry puck. 2 and 4 wire versions available. 2 1/4 inch x 2 1/4 inch VHB mounted base and matching cap plate. Comes with rubber grommet to protect wires from edge of hole cut into roof, 4 self drilling screws and sealant for around wires and between base and cap. Locate and...

diyvan.com

 

[AVC RIG]

We've had great success with these for many years:

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-CEP-Cable-Cables/dp/B0136USGHY?pd_rd_w=64Rov&content-id=amzn1.sym.deffa092-2e99-4e9f-b814-0d71c40b24af&pf_rd_p=deffa092-2e99-4e9f-b814-0d71c40b24af&pf_rd_r=J8M4TXRDNC9EM76MYXKW&pd_rd_wg=LdQ4y&pd_rd_r=344d2be5-db05-4ae4-897e-d5298edb7906&pd_rd_i=B0136USGHY&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_1_i