[Boondox]

Howdy All,

As soon as we get a break in the rain I am going to finally put some solar panels on the roof. There are so many cable glands out there and it is so hard to know if they are really well built and waterproof. I'll be passing 8AWG solar wire through the gland. I am hoping that someone here can recommend a particular brand rather than having to rely on internet reviews.

Many thanks for your experience!

 

[orton]

I have a single 300-watt panel so just a positive and negative cable. Used two 90-degree bulkhead fittings from McMaster-Carr. Bought MC4 extension cable and cut it in half. Kept the MC4 connectors above the roof and ran the cut ends through the bulkhead fittings down to the solar controller. Did add a CB on the positive cable so I can turn off the solar power to the controller. Bulkhead fittings are installed out of sight under the panel directly above the solar controller location.

 

[SLOFO]

Used the above MC4 extension cable (suggest getting longer than you think you need mine barely made it). Used a double solar cable entry gland from Amazon like this; the actual one I bought isn't available now, yet it was no particular brand either. I used the rear most driver's side electrical entry and used Proflex to seal.

 

[Sparky961]

I used a white Amazon off-brand 2-hole type that many have. It has only been installed for about a year and has yellowed significantly. I don't know if others would do better, or whether a black one would stay black, but I can't give the one I have very high marks.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B09G6LL36Q

Same can be said for Dicor sealant. Yes, it has remained sealed but it looks like it's been there for 10 years already.

 

[Sarah Lagano]

These were a pretty slick set up:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Go-Power/34273841REVA.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Smart%20Shopping%20-%20Accessories%20and%20Parts%20-%20Prospecting&adgroupid=78005013485&campaignid=6886913949&creative=389615232711&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9032731&matchtype=&network=u&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjw3riIBhAwEiwAzD3TifZ75rLiXA2X88UY8ytNl2IYuTcViUAjyWxxzn5d5B6WhKDxdlOl7BoCuMkQAvD_BwE

 

[Scalf77]

I used DIYvans Solar Entry Puck. Here is a inside picture of incoming wires. Note: Screw covers not included

 

[Boondox]

@orton , what exactly do you mean by "bulkhead fitting"? It could be a plumbing type thing pass a wire through, in which case how did it seal to the wire or more of a bulkhead connector with a conductor? I have used bulkhead fittings for plumbing and for coax and other wires but have not seen one for solar type usage so any details would be appreciated.

@SLOFO Bummer the one you bought is gone already. That is the nature of stuff on Amazon. Did yours have any fasteners or was it glue only? And has it held up to UV? Which Proflex product did you use?

@Sparky961 The UV degradation is one of the things I worry about. We do a lot of desert and the van is parked outside.

@Sarah Lagano Those are pretty slick! I wish that they had an 8AWG version and that they had fasteners. I am leery of just gluing it down. I still may go with these though.

@Scalf77 The DIYvan option looks good. Held down by fasteners which I like. I don't like the short radius of the turn, doubt I could get 8AWG to do that.

Thanks for all the replies! Any other recommendations out there?

 

[orton]

@orton , what exactly do you mean by "bulkhead fitting"? It could be a plumbing type thing pass a wire through, in which case how did it seal to the wire or more of a bulkhead connector with a conductor? I have used bulkhead fittings for plumbing and for coax and other wires but have not seen one for solar type usage so any details would be appreciated.

through-wall 90 degree cord electrical fittings | McMaster-Carr

I have a single 300 watt panel so only two cords. I have two fittings. One for the positive cord and one for the negative cord. Two new holes in the roof so I could locate the fittings out of sight under the panel and directly over the location of the solar controller inside the van, I did add an O-ring under the fitting flange for added water seal.

Picture of fittings shown on third row first picture:

Solar System | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

 

[Boondox]

through-wall 90 degree cord electrical fittings | McMaster-Carr

I have a single 300 watt panel so only two cords. I have two fittings. One for the positive cord and one for the negative cord. Two new holes in the roof so I could locate the fittings out of sight under the panel and directly over the location of the solar controller inside the van, I did add an O-ring under the fitting flange for added water seal.

Picture of fittings shown on third row first picture:

Solar System | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)

Thanks Orton. I would call those cable glands, I see they call them cable grips. In any case those look like a solid option. In my fantasy world they would have a larger flange for better sealing and distribution of force. But those are at the top of my list right now.

 

[khangaldinho]

I used this Amazon cable gland and it's worked great so far. Survived some pretty heavy rains/snow here in the PNW over the last several months without any leaks knock on wood https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV1PFS0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

One thing I did differently than most folks I've seen is I used the existing factory holes instead of drilling new ones. I placed butyl tape underneath for additional waterproofing and used 3M VHB tape to attach the gland. Then I used so much Dicor sealant around everything. We'll see how it holds up but I really didn't want to drill another hole in the roof is why I went with the factory hole. It also worked out perfectly with our solar panel placement/orientation and able to run the wires down the back pillar to my electrical cabinet.

Here's a photo of the entry point before I installed the gland.

 

[Michael Ophus]

I just bought a regular steel one from the electrical parts house, I wanted something strong that was not going to get knocked off by a tree branch. With a steel lock ring it will not pull out of the transit sheet metal.
I bought one of the angle ones, I sealed around it with Dicor and I put a little Dicor in the rubber gland with the wires before I tightened it. Four 10 gauge wires. No problems for six years.

 

[Checkswrecks]

You can see my gray pass-thru beneath the roof rack rail.

It's one of these from Home Depot with the fat end cut off:

Tectite 1/2 in. Non-Metallic Water Tight Push-to-Connect Elbow Connector ELME12 - The Home Depot

The 1/2 in. Tectite by Apollo Non-Metallic Water Tight Push-to-Connect Elbow Connector is the fastest, simplest and cleanest way to connect flexible non-metallic conduit without the use of tools or glue.

www.homedepot.com

Before mounting, I made a ring of butyl putty for the top flange for water sealing, then tightened the nut on the bottom side.

Gibraltar Building Products 50 ft. Butyl Sealant Tape Roof Accessory in Gray 99415 - The Home Depot

Gibraltar's Butyl Tape is commonly used in metal roofing installations to seal metal-to-metal connections. Conveniently sold in a 50 ft. roll that can easily be cut to length. Gibraltar's Butyl Tape is

www.homedepot.com

Once the wires were installed thru it, I packed it with more butyl around the conductors and it's never leaked.

 

[gregoryx]

I used this Amazon cable gland and it's worked great so far. Survived some pretty heavy rains/snow here in the PNW over the last several months without any leaks knock on wood https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV1PFS0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

One thing I did differently than most folks I've seen is I used the existing factory holes instead of drilling new ones. I placed butyl tape underneath for additional waterproofing and used 3M VHB tape to attach the gland. Then I used so much Dicor sealant around everything. We'll see how it holds up but I really didn't want to drill another hole in the roof is why I went with the factory hole. It also worked out perfectly with our solar panel placement/orientation and able to run the wires down the back pillar to my electrical cabinet.

...

We used the same unit. Drilled our own holes since all the factory holes are used for the roof-rack. Taped the gland on with one of the 3M VHB variants. No leaks.

Now I need to find another gland that will handle 4 wires or so for lights and antennas and such. 🤔

 

[SLOFO]

My gland was glue down- in this case Proflex. Some shown on Amazon have a separate base that the top piece snaps into. That could allow for some water intrusion, whereas I've had none during the last 18 months.

 

[skTransit]

As seen in the "Roof Mounting Points" thread response #7 and similar to others, we used 90 degree fittings.

 

[Scalf77]

@Scalf77 The DIYvan option looks good. Held down by fasteners which I like. I don't like the short radius of the turn, doubt I could get 8AWG to do that.

The underside picture I provided was 8 AWG wire using their 4 wire solar puck. The wires were just dangling at this point. The one direction is easy if it is the direction you are going, the other one needs to be looped around. I don't believe the radius in the end was any worse than the 90° units. But I do agree 8 AWG was tight with the 4 port unit.

 

[Boondox]

The underside picture I provided was 8 AWG wire using their 4 wire solar puck. The wires were just dangling at this point. The one direction is easy if it is the direction you are going, the other one needs to be looped around. I don't believe the radius in the end was any worse than the 90° units. But I do agree 8 AWG was tight with the 4 port unit.

Good to know that the 8AWG will work, thanks!

 

[Boondox]

As seen in the "Roof Mounting Points" thread response #7 and similar to others, we used 90 degree fittings.
View attachment 183623

I'm curious where you got your connectors. There are a lot out there.

 

[skTransit]

Hello @Boondox
Yikes, seems like a price jump as occurred! Originally got the Morris-22584 version from Amazon for $4.29 each. I just looked they are now $15.97. Later bought an off brand five pack from amazon for under $20 but now they are no longer available. (The off brand seemed just fine also FWIW this was for 10AWG.) sorry for the bad news regarding the price increase. s.

 

[Vanaroo]

In the past I've used the Scanstrut right angle gland DSH10. I'm used to using this type of gasketed gland on boat decks and like them. The DSH10 is a right angle gland so no big loop sticking up like from the typical boat gland that sends the wire straight up from the surface.

There was a downside though: Unless I wanted to use two of them for a pair of wires (I didn't), I had to use a workaround. With the DSH10 it would perfectly accept an Ancor 12AWG round duplex cable, so that was nice; but that meant I had to transition to that cable, then transition again once inside (because I wanted larger than 12AWG for the inside run). Pain. Plus if you don't already have a stash of 12AWG round, it's not so easy to find (most duplex is flat, at least with the cables I use).

Recently Scanstrut came out with the DSHD6. This is a single gland that will take a pair of cables. There are three different size seals included so it will fit a variety of wire sizes (centered around 10AWG or so). One set is un-drilled so you can customize if.

I haven't installed one yet, but I did order one, receive it, and lay out the parts and pieces on the workbench. I'm pleased with it and will be using them for various projects going forward. Good faying surface, good seal, low profile, flexibility in the wire sizes. It does need to be round cable, so if you wanted to use a single flat duplex wire (without removing the outer jacket) you'd still be better off to get a single gland and drill a sort of "infinity" shape into the un-drilled seal they often include. But for a pair of wires, I really like this one.

Here is what the Scanstrut DSDH6 looks like (the MC-4 cables are just an example). It is smaller in person that I (somehow) envisioned from the photos. Very tidy.