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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Building cabinets and shelving -

wood --

Is there need to build in Flex or some Slop ?
so that when van flexes cabinets have some give-

Dont want squeeks or wood/ sheet metal messing up

Using Rivet Nuts/ Bolts to mount to interior sheet metal -

also did you glue wood joints ??
 

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I expected squeaks, but so far none when I drive. Used riv nuts and bolt-throughs.

Only thing I noticed so far is a wavvy roof. I installed it in AZ 16% humidity, but it has expanded here in the wet coast.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Still trying to decide if I should build cabinets so they float around somewhat -

putting folding counter top at 29 to 30 inches above floor-
to have strength area in correct place - ended up having to use a 2x4
along a 4 foot section of wall behind driver
and a 7 foot section on slider side -
this was the only way I could get wall paneling even and have strength at correct location
for folding Table tops -
 

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What he said ∆∆
 

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the only cabinet squeak i've had was a little hard to track down. in addition to bolts through the cabinet backs (into rivnuts in the walls) i have a couple of angle brackets that connect between a rivnut and a cabinet sidewall. it turns out that the junction between the angle bracket and the wooden side was making a huge squawk (like a parrot screeching!) when i'd hit a bump. it turned trips down a concrete-jointed interstate into quite the pleasant experience. ;-) i fixed it at a rest area by simply putting some masking tape between the steel angle bracket and the wood sidewall. hasn't made a peep since. (this was near the end of the passenger-side cabinet that protrudes into the slider opening. i think there's more flex in my cabinets there than elsewhere because there are fewer attachment points.)
 

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With motorhomes and such, their cabinets are not flexible. If it's flexible it might never align right and your drawers or doors won't open and close correctly. I'd go the other way and insure the joints were extremely well joined. Maybe dove tail joinery, or inside angle brackets, dowls.

But when mounting to the hard surface, you could add rubber or urethane bushings between the cabinet and the hard surface you are bolting too.
http://www.latestrage.net/images/stories/virtuemart/product/530100_065_51774f5a23783.png


No idea on the link just an idea, images seen on the g**gle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did have some squeaks between wood and metal -
had an idea something like that might happen -
found very early -

I put a thin sheet of polyester matt between wood and metal-
seems to have worked - may use in other locations -

I think this cloth is called Batting -found at cloth store - 1/2 thick -

similar to thinsulate type fluff -
 

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I did have some squeaks between wood and metal -
had an idea something like that might happen -
found very early -

I put a thin sheet of polyester matt between wood and metal-
seems to have worked - may use in other locations -

I think this cloth is called Batting -found at cloth store - 1/2 thick -

similar to thinsulate type fluff -
That's pretty much what I have been doing. Wherever anything is bolted to the body, I cut a little 1/8" thick rubber gasket out of this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8NSXNY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's pretty dense and doesn't compress much. That way everything is isolated from vibration and it loads the fastener a little which seems to keep every thing tight. I guess it might provide a small thermal break as well.
JP
 
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