[orton]

On page 89 of the owners manual under "C" there is this statement "Turn the temperature control to maximum heat to turn on the auxiliary heater". On page 195 fuse link "H" describes a 80 amp fuse for "Positive temperature coefficient heater"
Does Transit have an electric air heating element for the dash air vents? My 08 Sprinter had a 1000 watt air heater that would start automatically when warm air was selected and would shut off automatically when interior warmed up. I could see when it stopped by the change in volts shown on my Scan Gage. Voltage would jump up 1/2 volt when it turned off.
If I knew how it functioned, I could avoid turning on the "vehicle" powered 1000 watt inverter when Ford heater was operating. Hopefully Ford electric heater is not automatic and only comes on if heat selector switch is at max. setting.

 

[PeterR]

On page 89 of the owners manual under "C" there is this statement "Turn the temperature control to maximum heat to turn on the auxiliary heater". On page 195 fuse link "H" describes a 80 amp fuse for "Positive temperature coefficient heater"
Does Transit have an electric air heating element for the dash air vents? My 08 Sprinter had a 1000 watt air heater that would start automatically when warm air was selected and would shut off automatically when interior warmed up. I could see when it stopped by the change in volts shown on my Scan Gage. Voltage would jump up 1/2 volt when it turned off.
If I knew how it functioned, I could avoid turning on the "vehicle" powered 1000 watt inverter when Ford heater was operating. Hopefully Ford electric heater is not automatic and only comes on if heat selector switch is at max. setting.

Can't you test the draw with your Scan Gauge? Another example of the hidden nuances similar to Whitedog trying to figure out his relay issue, without knowing the underlying design (incl. software) of the electrical system it seems to me.

 

[orton]

Can't you test the draw with your Scan Gauge? Another example of the hidden nuances similar to Whitedog trying to figure out his relay issue, without knowing the underlying design (incl. software) of the electrical system it seems to me.

Scan Gage went bye bye when I sold the Sprinter. Since Transit has a real automatic transmission and I have a temperature gauge I may not buy another one. In Sprinter had it set to read volts, water temperature, boost and load. Required in Sprinter because you had to watch the "load" reading to determine when to manually shift the "automatic" transmission. Transmission does not shift down on hills so "load" pegs at 99% . Downshifting lowers load and increases mpg.

 

[Longboard]

I salvaged my ScanGauge from the Sprinter but will not hook it up.
I'm currently using this as a voltmeter in the Transit:

Digital Voltage Indicator with LCD Display: BatteryMart.com

 

[orton]

I salvaged my ScanGauge from the Sprinter but will not hook it up.
I'm currently using this as a voltmeter in the Transit:

Digital Voltage Indicator with LCD Display: BatteryMart.com

Do you see a jump in voltage after a start in cold weather with controls set for cabin heat? The Sprinter voltage would normally be at 14.1 volts. When starting up in cold weather the voltage would drop to 13.5 volts. I could watch the engine water temperature increase as the engine warmed up. As I recall about 150 degree engine water temperature the voltage would jump back up to 14.1 volts from 13.5. I assume that Mercedes programmed electric heater to turn off when water could provide the heat.

 

[Longboard]

I haven't tested that yet, but I plan to.
I still have never verified that there is an electric heater, but since you've experienced it and have now found reference to it in the manual it must be there.
I've just been checking battery condition while I was using radio every morning while stealth camping.
I've since bought two more, along with some SAE two pin "Y" adapters, so I will leave one on each of my three battery systems for convenience.
So with one always sitting near the front power point I will remember to check next time I start up early in the morning.

 

[orton]

I haven't tested that yet, but I plan to.
I still have never verified that there is an electric heater, but since you've experienced it and have now found reference to it in the manual it must be there.
I've just been checking battery condition while I was using radio every morning while stealth camping.
I've since bought two more, along with some SAE two pin "Y" adapters, so I will leave one on each of my three battery systems for convenience.
So with one always sitting near the front power point I will remember to check next time I start up early in the morning.

The Transit does get warm air out of the dash vents soon after startup. Fairly sure that it is too soon to come from engine warm water. The voltmeter check should verify that there is a electric air heater.

 

[Damien89]

The transit wagon has a rear cabin heater installed under the front passenger seat in the european version, could the manual be referring to this?

 

[PeterR]

The transit wagon has a rear cabin heater installed under the front passenger seat in the european version, could the manual be referring to this?

Unlikely IMO as orton has a cargo van, without rear heat (I think but am not sure).

Also, the applicable owners manual is for the US 2015 Transit. Here is the page to which orton referred -- see section C. near the bottom of the Print p. 90:

Manual Climate Control - Ford TRANSIT 2015 Owner's Manual [Page 93]

It is possible of course that the manual is referring to an auxiliary rear heat unit, which orton may or may not have. The owners manual is full of inconsistencies, voids, pregnant silences, and just plain old missing information, as the ONE manual is supposed to apply to every 2015 Transit delivered IMO, whether cargo Van or passenger Wagon, for all three lengths and heights. A tall order for the manual writers!

 

[Longboard]

Low forties here this afternoon so time for the trial.
After starting 14.4 volts.
After a few minutes with the temp needle still pegged at zero,
warm air began to blow with the temp set full clockwise into the red.
Never noticed before, but with the fan speed set to full high, the fan speed increased as I slowly retarded the temp towards the white arc!
There it blew cold, but the voltage continued to read 14.4.
The coolant temp eventually rose, but the voltage remained at 14.4 unless
I dialed down the fan speed to the first or second click, where it read 14.5.
I never left the driveway or increased the idle, but the temp settled in a bit past the first hash mark.
The fan speed continued to decrease in the second half of the red zone as I advanced the temp control, and the voltage readings never changed.
Possibly at higher operating temps it would.
Next drive I will monitor not only voltage but fan speed in the red zone as well.

 

[Longboard]

Then again we both have HD alternator....maybe it makes up for the current draw of the electric heater booster.

 

[orton]

Sounds like there is an electric heater. Maybe Transit wire size is larger so you do not get the voltage drop. Interesting. Thank you for your test.

I was thinking I would not want to start my 1000 watt vehicle inverter during the time the electric heater was operating. That was why I was asking the question. Probably smart not to start vehicle powered inverter until engine is warm and electric heater is off. Do not want two 1000 watt loads at the same time.

 

[Longboard]

When you are running a 750 watt heater from your 1000 watt invertor the current draw from your vehicle's electrical system is equal to a 1000 watt DC heating element's?

 

[JP4]

I don't know. It takes quite a while for me to get heat out of mine. Much slower than getting heat out of my Subaru. I usually have to drive a mile or two before I feel much, but that's with ambient temps in the 30's-50's since I've had the van.
JP

 

[orton]

When you are running a 750 watt heater from your 1000 watt invertor the current draw from your vehicle's electrical system is equal to a 1000 watt DC heating element's?

I do not know the watts of the Ford heating element ( if there is one). Suspect it would be close to the Sprinter 1000 watt element. So running the 750 watt heater with the vehicle inverter would put two approx. 1000 watt loads on the alternator. Would want to avoid that. Just have to use my remote start on a cold morning without starting the inverter. Ford system would still take the chill off the interior.

 

[PeterR]

I don't know. It takes quite a while for me to get heat out of mine. Much slower than getting heat out of my Subaru. I usually have to drive a mile or two before I feel much, but that's with ambient temps in the 30's-50's since I've had the van.
JP

Do you crank the temp. knob up to max. to kick on the aux. electric heater, assuming there is one?

 

[orton]

Do you crank the temp. knob up to max. to kick on the aux. electric heater, assuming there is one?

That is what the owners manual says.

 

[JP4]

Do you crank the temp. knob up to max. to kick on the aux. electric heater, assuming there is one?

Yep.

 

[Damien89]

Guys, the heater starts to heat almost instantly because usually it is fed by water coming from the cylinder head which is where it gets hot first and is hottest during normal running temps. My 1986 transit is the same, after 2-3 mins hot air starts coming out from the heater.

 

[PeterR]

If there is an auxiliary electric inline heater for the front discharge locations (under and/or in dash), where is it located and can anyone expose it to the light of day, or would it be buried too deeply? Is there still such a thing as a "shop manual" anymore, like I had for my 1970 Econoline, perhaps available through Etis, or is this detailed information hidden from public view? I assume independent garages can access the info.?