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Discussion starter · #45 ·
It looks like you installed the window as far forward in the slider as possible. Was that to provide the greatest improvement in visibility when driving or ???
I just let the guys at VanCo NorCal decide. I was like.. whatever you think. They said they went with the more forward position based on how it looked from inside as well as outside. I like how it turned out! I'm not that picky about stuff like that. I got bigger electrical systems to fry ;P
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
I installed the same arctic tern on the slider door. The blind assembly rattles a LOT while driving on all types of roads. My short term solution was to stick a piece of foam in with the rollers while driving. Have you notice this also or did your professional installers implemented a better solution?
I don't have the blind installed yet.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Yeah, I wanted the double pane acrylic vs glass for insulating value, and I like how wide it opens for air flow. I am trying it out with one fan in the back and this window and will see if there is adequate airflow. If not, I'll add a front fan (maybe, if I can make my roof setup work out!).
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
The AVC Rig floor and wall kit came today. I was able to uncrate it and test fit the floor by myself. Glue-down for floor will definitely require at least two people. It was a lot of trips to take all the wall pieces down two flights of stairs inside to await their turn for install! All the pieces are clearly labeled.

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Thank you maia for starting your thread. The similarities in our build has inspired me to start my own thread and start building again after taking a break. I almost missed it when you said you haven't installed the blind assembly yet on your slider door window. Be careful when you do. My blinds made contact with my flares when the door is fully opened. It looks like our windows are in the same location so you may encounter this also. The tolerance is very tight. Probably less than an 1/8" too tight. Check out my post here for more details.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Did some floor stuff today. Located where the Espar heater will go (driver's side just in front of the rear wheel well) and cut out that piece of the floor so the Espar heater can sit directly on the van floor. I gave plenty of clearance since I have the space in this location given my layout. Used a skilsaw to cut this part out. Keeping it just in case :p

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I unrolled the Lonseal and used the AVC Rig floor pieces to template to save myself the trouble of templating with paper later.

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Finally, we glued the AVC Rig floor to the van using 3M 90. You definitely need two people for this. We worked with all three pieces in place to help with placement. There is about 1/4-1/2" play in the kit and we ended up gluing the rear piece about 3/16" too far back, so the hole for the tire access is just slightly off center. We just continued on, no doing anything about that once the 3M 90 is on there! No issues with the doors closing and I don't expect any problems with the trim piece either. We just placed the front two pieces tight to this one.

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I plan to go around the edges with some kind of expanding spray foam to keep any water from getting under or in the sides of the wood. Any recommendations on products?
 
Why not reach out to AVC and see what they recommend? The clearance from the walls looks spot on. It might be tough to not end up with too much foam even if you use the minimally expanding stuff (AKA doors and windows). I suppose if you foam before installation of the finish floor will allow you to trim the excess. Then seal the edges of the finish floor with something else.
Could you do me a favor and measure the width of the floor at it's widest point? I'd like to copy that fit.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Why not reach out to AVC and see what they recommend? The clearance from the walls looks spot on. It might be tough to not end up with too much foam even if you use the minimally expanding stuff (AKA doors and windows). I suppose if you foam before installation of the finish floor will allow you to trim the excess. Then seal the edges of the finish floor with something else.
Good idea. They are very responsive on instagram. Their install recommends 3M 94 and I dm'd them on instagram to ask about 90 instead and they got back to me within a couple hours. The thought was mainly to protect the exposed edges of the sheathing since they use that zip system stuff with a built-in moisture barrier and then I'm puttig Lonseal on top, so any moisture would really get trapped. Especially around the big cutout for where the heater will go. I was thinking to apply before the finished floor then trim, and not worry about the edges of the Lonseal.

It is a nice fit indeed, but there are a few places where there is more space (around the wheel wells, for example).

Could you do me a favor and measure the width of the floor at it's widest point? I'd like to copy that fit.
I'll do that tomorrow.
 
@maia Curious about what AVG might have posted on how they do some stuff and came across a great video they posted on how they prep the Transit for the wall kit ... but I am guessing you are already aware of it. Hopefully they put up a video on the walls an ceiling soon.

BTW - I did wonder from your pics if the crate for your kit was Baltic birch. Fantastic! I would find something better to do with that nice material than making saw horses.

Have you thought about some sort of decorative panel to blank out their branding on the door sill plate, say like with an etched SS plaque. Maybe your favorite mountain range or topo map of a large high altitude lake (or a of course Miracle Whip label :p ).
 
Discussion starter · #60 · (Edited)
Could you do me a favor and measure the width of the floor at it's widest point? I'd like to copy that fit.
I measured it and the answer is…. Nice 😏 (actually maybe just an 1/8" under)

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