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I used a combination square to measure from the edge of the panel to the center of the 8020 panel, tightened down and then transferred these measurements to the panel for drilling.
A transfer screw set can make the process quick and accurate


Please don’t rip me a new one if orton already suggested it. 🤣
 

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WOW! That was fast. You are Awsome!
Glad to see you are also using TNutz. I recently ordered from them and don't recall seeing the set screw roll in option. Thank you! I have already placed my oder for roll in Tnuts with the set screw. I know from past experiance ball springs would result in some un-needed frustration and a possible loud stream of choice words.

Good idea on the combination square.

To see if I liked the look I also ordered 6 flat head cap screws and will compare against the button head screws. Did you try the flat head cap screws? I used the black button heads in my van garage (under bed) to mount 1/4" poly carbonate panels so all my pluming is eyes on. Not the thrifty option, but with the led lighting in the box it delivers a little more impact than a standard painted box. Works in the garage, but I won't be doing that for my kitchen.
Thanks again for your help!

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Discussion Starter · #463 ·
A transfer screw set can make the process quick and accurate


Please don’t rip me a new one if orton already suggested it. 🤣
Lol

Yeah, I used a set screw method for my wall panels where there was a lot more variation. Because these are along straight lines, measuring works fine.

To see if I liked the look I also ordered 6 flat head cap screws and will compare against the button head screws.
Those will look nice, but need to be countersunk, right? For me that's more effort than it's worth.
 

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I use leaf spring t-nuts because they hold in place the best, while still being able to be slid back and forth when needed. T-nutz sells ball spring and set screw drop in for 10-series. You could try those.

My method is careful measurement and drilling, then place the t-nuts in the channel at approx locations, hold up the panel and see how far off i am, adjust positions until all threads are visible through holes. Bolt all loosely, push panel around if necessary to get exact alignment with edges, tighten.

I used a combination square to measure from the edge of the panel to the center of the 8020 panel, tightened down and then transferred these measurements to the panel for drilling.

View attachment 177042
i might be the only childish one here but i did giggle when nuts, balls and screw was used in the same breath, not to mention 'sliding back and forth'
 

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Discussion Starter · #465 ·
i might be the only childish one here but i did giggle when nuts, balls and screw was used in the same breath, not to mention 'sliding back and forth'
I'm just trying to help everyone finish.
 

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Those will look nice, but need to be countersunk, right? For me that's more effort than it's worth.
Yeah, they need to be counter sunk. But I did 3/4 of my walls and all my ceiling in 1/4 inch Tongue & Groove with wood screws that were also counter sunk. In the end I think it was over 400 wood screws. Perhaps not the smartest method, but it looks good now and should hold well driving on washboard roads. I hope.

If I like the look I can manage a littel more time with drill in hand for the cabinetry. My concern is will my counter sink bits cut at a shallow enough angle for 1/4" thick panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #469 · (Edited)
I finished panels for my lower cabinets and attached the bench door that hides the toilet. I still need to add blocking and a bit more structure to the fridge panel, but it's functional enough as of now, so long as no hooligans come along and slam it from the top :p It was a bit of shenanigans to get everything attached, and I definitely MacGyver'd my way to a reasonable solution. Don't think it makes much sense to say much about that here, since everyone's build is different. My main advice is to make sure to have lots of different types of hardware and attachment things on hand. And think through an order of operations and access for when you will have to align things and / or tighten them.

Here are some photos, excuse the dirty panels, I haven't cleaned everythign up yet so they're covered in sawdust and fingerprints. I messed up the hinge cups on the toilet door both in distance and with a dull forstner bit on the first go round, but you can't tell from these photos, because the ugly is all on the inside :p Maybe future me will remake this door, or maybe not.

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More realistically, I use an access hole jig to drill #7 hole where I want the panel mounting hole. Hold/clamp the panel in place and use a #7 transfer punch to mark the inside of the panel. Drill a pilot hole to locate on the outside. Clamp/hold panel in place and use a #10 wood screw bit with countersink to drill from outside. The tapered bit auto-aligns the hole. Place a 10-32 economy t-nut in the slot and use 10-32 x 1 flathead screw for a super solid connection.

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Works every time. Cheaper than corner brackets.
 

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@maia
So cool to see that first pic in your post #469. It looks just like what I remember seeing in one of your original sketch up designs (even before you had the van).... only it has come to life and looks fabulous. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
Thank you everyone! It's so great to be in the home stretch. I was too zonked after today to clean the van out and take nice photos. Plan to do that sometime this week.

After the work I did today, all that's left is:
  • Get bench cushions made by somebody. Any recs of online sources? Or local in Tahoe?
  • Finish rear door panels and upholstery.
  • Finish slider door panels and upholstery.
  • Figure out how to best use cabinets / possibly build a shelf or two here and there.
Today I did a bunch of little things that add up to a lot:
  • I finished the fridge slider panel. As was shown earlier, I mounted it to the Dometic slider using some 8020. I added blocking between the panel and the fridge so when pressed on it does not flex, so a casual knee can close it. I also added a strap that loops around the back of it so that when pulled on when opening it does not flex forward. It's now very very sturdy.
  • I also added a Lagun table mount to it as a second location for my table (other location is passenger swivel). I really like how this came out. The table size makes perfect sense for every location. Also note that I intentionally built my bench to be "counter height" for a couple of reasons: (1) easier to fit the fridge and toilet inside and (2) the table is counter height when comfortably installed, so I can use it for extra kitchen prep space without hunching over.
  • I added outlets to the panel below the fridge: 12v, a dual USB-A/USB-C, and 120V. All hooked up and working. Haven't tested the USB-C with my laptop yet but the hope is that I can just plug right in there and not have to use the inverter plus power block on the usual laptop cable. I'll report back at some point.
  • I went ahead and built a panel for the back of the upper clothes cabinet at the foot of the bed. While I had my tools and all out.
  • I added dust cover t-slot trim to the inside of the upper clothes cabinet at the foot of the bed for a more finished look.


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Thank you everyone! It's so great to be in the home stretch. I was too zonked after today to clean the van out and take nice photos. Plan to do that sometime this week.

After the work I did today, all that's left is:
  • Get bench cushions made by somebody. Any recs of online sources? Or local in Tahoe?
  • Finish rear door panels and upholstery.
  • Finish slider door panels and upholstery.
  • Figure out how to best use cabinets / possibly build a shelf or two here and there.
Today I did a bunch of little things that add up to a lot:
  • I finished the fridge slider panel. As was shown earlier, I mounted it to the Dometic slider using some 8020. I added blocking between the panel and the fridge so when pressed on it does not flex, so a casual knee can close it. I also added a strap that loops around the back of it so that when pulled on when opening it does not flex forward. It's now very very sturdy.
  • I also added a Lagun table mount to it as a second location for my table (other location is passenger swivel). I really like how this came out. The table size makes perfect sense for every location. Also note that I intentionally built my bench to be "counter height" for a couple of reasons: (1) easier to fit the fridge and toilet inside and (2) the table is counter height when comfortably installed, so I can use it for extra kitchen prep space without hunching over.
  • I added outlets to the panel below the fridge: 12v, a dual USB-A/USB-C, and 120V. All hooked up and working. Haven't tested the USB-C with my laptop yet but the hope is that I can just plug right in there and not have to use the inverter plus power block on the usual laptop cable. I'll report back at some point.
  • I went ahead and built a panel for the back of the upper clothes cabinet at the foot of the bed. While I had my tools and all out.
  • I added dust cover t-slot trim to the inside of the upper clothes cabinet at the foot of the bed for a more finished look.


View attachment 177182

View attachment 177183

View attachment 177184

View attachment 177185

View attachment 177187
you can just make your own cushions, it is easy, check out step six in my instructable. in retrospect, since the weight to surface area ratios are much higher with sitting than with sleeping, i think it would be better to only use 1" to 1.5" of memory foam then the rest regular foam. if you want swing your van through NM and walk me through your build i can help you make some cushions
 

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Do you have a link for those straps? My searches for something similar coming up with battery tie downs.
  • I finished the fridge slider panel. As was shown earlier, I mounted it to the Dometic slider using some 8020. I added blocking between the panel and the fridge so when pressed on it does not flex, so a casual knee can close it. I also added a strap that loops around the back of it so that when pulled on when opening it does not flex forward. It's now very very sturdy
 

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Discussion Starter · #478 ·
Do you have a link for those straps? My searches for something similar coming up with battery tie downs.
  • I finished the fridge slider panel. As was shown earlier, I mounted it to the Dometic slider using some 8020. I added blocking between the panel and the fridge so when pressed on it does not flex, so a casual knee can close it. I also added a strap that loops around the back of it so that when pulled on when opening it does not flex forward. It's now very very sturdy
This is the strap. You will need the tie downs too. I had two of these left from my water securing system, which uses this strap.
 

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  • I added outlets to the panel below the fridge: 12v, a dual USB-A/USB-C, and 120V. All hooked up and working. Haven't tested the USB-C with my laptop yet but the hope is that I can just plug right in there and not have to use the inverter plus power block on the usual laptop cable. I'll report back at some point.
View attachment 177184
My van has the same combination with USB-A , USB-C, and black 120 volt GFCI's completed in 2 places and 2 more wired and waiting for finished panel to mount and wire outlets. I have the same intention to avoid the inverter and power the laptop with Type C, so I am curious how well yours works. Different type C outlets have different amp raitngs and it looks like the one we may have both chose goes up to 15 AMPs. If we did get the same one it does not mention charging laptops. It only mentions compatability with phones and tablets. I am concerned I may be better off with this 83W 12V USB Outlet Laptop Charger . If it is an issue perhaps we can swap out the units and continue using the same face plate. From what I read the USB-C PD 3.0 "negotiates" power needs with the device you are charging, so I am definately looking forward to your laptop charging test hopeing it will confirm one way or the other.
Thanks Again!
 
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