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More cabinetry progress today!

I built side panels for the bench around the toilet. I built the door also, but can't mount it yet because apparently I didn't buy enough hinges. On order. Not seeing the toilet immediately when you open the slider is one of the biggest improvements. The door is just propped up on a piece of ply for this photo. It'll be straight and flush when attached.

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I started prototyping the panel for hiding the fridge. I used some scrap 8020 (3075) as upright supports for a panel. I bolted that through the little slots at the edge of the Dometic fridge slide using 4x 1/4-20 bolts. Next I made a panel out of 5/8" with a cutout to operate the locking mechanism for the fridge slide. I drilled 4 holes to bolt the panel to the 8020 upright supports. I didn't have the right length of 5/16" bolt to get through the 5/8" to the t-nut. I got two 1" bolt to barely catch enough to verify that this system will work. I ordered some longer bolts to match the rest of my visible finish hardware. They come Tuesday and I'll pick up this project then. I also made a thin panel for below the fridge. This will eventually have some power outlets. It's attached with 3M command strips. We'll see how those hold up, and if they're not strong enough I'll try something else. Just hard to reach for bolts.

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I also finished the panels for the upper cabinets above the bed. I used WilsonArt Snow Geo to match my other uppers, bolted to the bottom of the frame and a side panel. I will see if eventually I want a panel at the other end by the back door. I will fill the exposed t-slots with the grey gasket finishing material to make it look more finished. I really like just having soft bins up there. They are easy to tote for laundry, nothing spills out like can happen with overhead cabinets, and it's super light.


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I was so afraid of starting the finish cabinetry a month or so ago and wow what a difference it is making. After this, I'll only have paneling on the slider and rear doors, and a couple of roof rack things (one surprise if I can make it work!).


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if i may ask, what is the distance between the walls across the bed? what is the thickness of the insulation there and what do you think the max height of a person could be and still fit in there?
 

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2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
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Discussion Starter · #444 ·
I don't think anyone gets 77" after finishing. There are ribs to deal with there. I'd look around for others who've successfully built out "bumpouts". I didn't so can't help you with referencing the max there. Lots on youtube about that. Like here

See also:
Rectangle Font Material property Screenshot Parallel
 

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@rustythorn
Salty Vanventures is a youtube channel wherein the fellow who built out the transit is around 6'3". He built into the wall pockets (no flares) as much as possible and I think he ended up with around a 75.75" bed (193 cm). I watched his video of doing it and I don't see where anyone could do much better without external flares (he glued thin/rigid insulation board to the van skin, then glued thin ply to that).

He puts a tape measure to it in his recent "van tour" video, but the link below is to the video where he shows how he framed and built it. BTW, this is in Australia but other than the Transit being right-hand drive (and manual transmission - why can't we have nice things?!) the sheet metal is the same as our US ones.

 

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This really isn't part of your thread but with the molded AdWag panels I get just about 73" and me at 72" tall can just fit. I slept fine the week we used it. But my wife and I say some time in the future we may add the Flairspace to it.
 

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i did not do flares, built into the bump outs with slider windows and thinsulate insulation. walls just thick enough in the "bump outs" for insulation slightly compressed and also make the windows not have a "head cracker". i ended up at 74.75" at the widest (front side) and i forget at the back, lets say 73.5" just for grins. im 5-10 and no problem. can see on my build thread linked in sig
 

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I just put together the Ultimate MX hauler the other day. Haven't loaded the bike with it yet but it has two advantages for me: you load it on the ground (so it's easier for me to load alone), and it loads farther away from the van and then gets sucked closer when you jack it up (which I hope will let me load with the handlebars to the passenger side so they don't conflict with my spare).


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curious to see how this Ultimate works for you. i didnt know they made a model with a tray and it would work better than the normal version for me. i have a CRF300 rally on order i plan to haul with the van and appears to be same weight as your husky (330lb-ish). mostly curious to see how the transit works, since my van will be similar HR 250 AWD (R2X) if ford ever decides to build it. selling one of the big bikes (tiger 800) to have a bike i can use with the van easier. of the 50+ bikes ive owned it seems i always have the most fond memories with the smaller cc ones...
 

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Discussion Starter · #449 ·
curious to see how this Ultimate works for you. i didnt know they made a model with a tray and it would work better than the normal version for me.
I'll keep ya posted! Also it took 3 months to get to me, but it looks like they just got a batch done and would ship 8/12 from Mojo Motorsport (where I ordered from).
 

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Discussion Starter · #451 ·
As you'll be staying a lot of the time in the snow, we have used the thinsulate insulation and made them into window covers. They work incredibly well in the snow and sun as works as a great thermal barrier! I've only created the final design on the rear doors using rip stop nylon to be water resistant against any condensation. Probably a little early to start planning for this though, can't wait to see how your build turns out!
I don't have rear windows. ... and my build is nearly finished. Thanks for stopping by.
 

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Discussion Starter · #454 ·
@maia where are you buying the WilsonArt?
I got some from Home Depot and some from Cabinetmaker Warehouse. Both of them rolled it up into about 18" diameter tube and shipped inside a large box.

In case it's helpful, I ordered:
  • 2x Snow Geo - Wilsonart Laminate Sheets - Matte Finish - 4' x 8' General Purpose
  • 5x Designer White - Wilsonart Laminate Sheets - Matte Finish - 4' x 8' Vertical Grade
  • 1x Matte Natural Aluminum - Solid Metal - 4' x 8' Sheet(s)
  • 3x Wilsonart Blackbird with Premium Leno Weave Finish - 4' x 8'
The "vertical grade" is thinner and much easier to work with, general purpose is a bit thicker and more durable.

I will definitely have plenty of the Blackbird with Premium Leno Weave Finish left over, and about half a sheet of Snow Geo. I'm not especially good or careful with scrap. I have made plenty of "OH ****" rips where then I ended up tossing more than I would have if I had been careful. Part of this is not having a garage or big table to work on, just sawhorses outside.
 

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More cabinetry progress today!

I also finished the panels for the upper cabinets above the bed. I used WilsonArt Snow Geo to match my other uppers, bolted to the bottom of the frame and a side panel. I will see if eventually I want a panel at the other end by the back door. I will fill the exposed t-slots with the grey gasket finishing material to make it look more finished. I really like just having soft bins up there. They are easy to tote for laundry, nothing spills out like can happen with overhead cabinets, and it's super light.


View attachment 176735




View attachment 176736


I was so afraid of starting the finish cabinetry a month or so ago and wow what a difference it is making. After this, I'll only have paneling on the slider and rear doors, and a couple of roof rack things (one surprise if I can make it work!).

Hello Maia
Great build! I wish I followed your build sooner. I could have saved myself some pain. For some time now I have wanted to use the same exteriour panel mounting you implemented. I like the idea of being able to remove and replace the panel should I need better access to wiring or electronics. However, I have been finding other stuff to work on instead :oops: (I have been dreading the finished carpentry).

I used 1010 series on my upper cabinets, so I know I have fewer options concerning roll in T-Nuts that will stay in place.
1) What was the technique used to threat those bolts blind? Maticulious measurement?
2) How did you keep the T-nuts stationary? (With limited 1010 options I may have to use glue)
3) What T-nuts were used?

Thanks for your help and sharing your build!
 

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Discussion Starter · #460 ·
I used 1010 series on my upper cabinets, so I know I have fewer options concerning roll in T-Nuts that will stay in place.
1) What was the technique used to threat those bolts blind? Maticulious measurement?
2) How did you keep the T-nuts stationary? (With limited 1010 options I may have to use glue)
3) What T-nuts were used?
I use leaf spring t-nuts because they hold in place the best, while still being able to be slid back and forth when needed. T-nutz sells ball spring and set screw drop in for 10-series. You could try those.

My method is careful measurement and drilling, then place the t-nuts in the channel at approx locations, hold up the panel and see how far off i am, adjust positions until all threads are visible through holes. Bolt all loosely, push panel around if necessary to get exact alignment with edges, tighten.

I used a combination square to measure from the edge of the panel to the center of the 8020 panel, tightened down and then transferred these measurements to the panel for drilling.

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