Ford Transit USA Forum banner
421 - 440 of 521 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,422 Posts
I haven't been building much due to travel and waiting for weather to change. We had a very snowy April here in Tahoe, after a record dry Jan-Mar.

After the snow I got my snow tires and stock wheels taken off and replaced with Method 701s and Falken Wildpeak tires in 245/75 R16. Apparently Method didn't ship the correct lug nuts but Sierra Adventure Vans was able to find some that worked (I believe he said F-350 stock but I could be wrong). The Aluminess rear tire mount wasn't here yet but it just came in so I have an appointment next week to get that put on.

View attachment 171355

And in other news:

View attachment 171353

This is my first motorcycle. I passed my MSF class last week on the first try (amidst a bunch of 20-something dudes who were back for a second go-round). Felt good about that since only 5 out of 12 of us passed. Picked up this Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 on my way back to Tahoe from the bay. Waiting on the paperwork to get the M1 endorsement on my license before I can ride my new baby though! This will give me an alternative vehicle for summer, since the van is my daily driver. I imagine that eventually I'll get a smaller dual sport (maybe a Yamaha XT250 or Honda Trail 125 or Honda CRF300L) to throw on the back of the van for longer trips.
Nice bike, I have been hooning around on my daughters KTM 390 Duke which is mechanically the same bike. It's so much fun in the twisties, and I'm far less likely to lose my license on it than on my Tuono. I hadn't considered hanging a bike off the back of our van, because my Tuono is a lot bigger and heavier, but this got me thinking.
 

·
Registered
22 148 Cargo M Roof AWD Oxford white .
Joined
·
410 Posts
Looking really goods, I don’t have wood shop either or pro tools, I got the same
1/4 inch shank cordless Makita Router and got to use it for first time yesterday
its a sweet very capable tool.
 

·
Registered
2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
Joined
·
710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #423 ·
Nice bike, I have been hooning around on my daughters KTM 390 Duke which is mechanically the same bike. It's so much fun in the twisties, and I'm far less likely to lose my license on it than on my Tuono.
Yeah! Super fun engine.

I hadn't considered hanging a bike off the back of our van, because my Tuono is a lot bigger and heavier, but this got me thinking.
I just put together the Ultimate MX hauler the other day. Haven't loaded the bike with it yet but it has two advantages for me: you load it on the ground (so it's easier for me to load alone), and it loads farther away from the van and then gets sucked closer when you jack it up (which I hope will let me load with the handlebars to the passenger side so they don't conflict with my spare).

Light Automotive tire Wood Road surface Asphalt

Tool Font Gas Metal Household hardware


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread
 

·
Registered
2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
Joined
·
710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #424 ·
My 8020 is attached directly to the van using carriage bolts and plus nuts, no gap. My walls fit around the rigid structure. It's all documented in this thread, waaaay back, like here for example.
@NW_Freedom I just realized that I lied, kinda. My upper cabinets are outside of the wall and ceiling panels. The 8020 is bolted through to rivnuts. This structure is part of what secures the panels.

In this post you can see how the wall panels fit around the 8020 of the bed frame. But in this post you can see how the 8020 is outside of the wall in the upper galley area.
 

·
Registered
2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
Joined
·
710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #426 ·
Still working on the lower galley cabinets. I added a drawer next to the bench under my tall cabinet, and this was a PITA. Crawling in to attach the drawer slides and extra bits of frankenstein 8020 to support it too longer than I'd like to admit. I also ended up needing to adjust the top drawer of my stack of 4 under the cooktop to make things lineup and to be able to use the same 8020 cross member to support both drawer slides (right side of the drawer in the tall cabinet, left side of the drawer below the cooktop). But then this meant that my drawer didn't clear the little feet sticking down from under the induction cooktop. I just use the dremel to saw those off (just plastic feet) and it all fits now!

Then I built the drawer fronts. I cut a single piece of 5/8" to fit over the whole set of 4 drawers, then laminated it with HPL. I measured down from the top to mark the center of each 8020 cross member, then marked those on the big piece and cut. The kerf of my track saw is pretty narrow, so I ended up trimming a bit extra to get a good amount of clearance between the drawer fronts. YMMV. Next I sanded all the exposed plywood edges and then used the router to give a bit of champher around all edges.

Then it was time to attach the drawer fronts to the front fixing brackets. There are some complicated mm measurements in the Blum instructions, but I ended up following basically what OurKaravan did. I set a couple pieces of scrap underneath the bottom drawer front, placed the fixing brackets into the drawer profiles and coated them in fingernail polish (lol). Then I held the drawer front in position and pressed it in to leave the nail polish marks on the back of the drawer front. (OurKaravan uses grease for this step.) There are two types of front fixing brackets... a screw on type and an expando plastic type. I used the expando dials to mark, but did not use them to attach because (1) I was less confident in my ability to drill the larger hole the proper depth, (2) I am less confident in the strength vs a screw into baltic birch. So, I used the expando dials to mark, but did not use them to attach. I used a center punch to mark inside the paint marks, then pre-drilled and screwed the brackets on.

I used an aluminum ruler to space between the lower and 2nd from bottom drawer, and used the paint again to mark. Proceeded in this way until I reached the top of the stack.

I still have some adjusting to do to get everything lined up perfect, but it's pretty great so far! I need to attach the latches but I'm waiting on an order of different keepers to see if they will be better with the 8020 before I commit to drilling holes in these drawer fronts.

Measuring down:

Shelf Rectangle Shelving Wood Gas


Champher:

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Nail polish marking:

Wood Rectangle Automotive exterior Material property Flooring


Countertop Wood Floor Kitchen Flooring


Rectangle Composite material Gas Tints and shades Flooring


Interior design Building Kitchen Automotive design Gas


Oh, and I installed a dual usb inside the tall cabinet to charge my toothbrush.

Wood Fixture Automotive exterior Gas Flooring


And caught a great sunset at the lake.

Water Cloud Sky Boat Afterglow


Face Glasses Smile Lip Vision care
 

·
Registered
2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
Joined
·
710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #429 ·
Installing latches today and I made a discovery, albeit through an error and also too late for me to take much advantage of, but maybe relevant for others.

The Southco latches I'm using will catch on the slot of 8020. You don't need a keeper. This is with 15 series and 5/8" fronts covered with HPL.

One of the trade offs of 8020 vs wood is that attaching hardware can be a bit of a puzzle. I'd been messing around trying to find the best way to mount a keeper to the 8020 for the drawers and sink door. The keepers that come with the latches have slots for #10 screws. I was trying to figure out the best way to mount directly to my 15 series, and I found that McMaster-Carr sells drop in hammer style t-nuts for 15 series with 10-32 threads. Joy! So I ordered those and low-profile 10-32 bolts.

Guitar accessory Wood Finger Material property String instrument accessory


It's a pain to install these for drawers where the latch is at the top of the drawer, because you have to get the hammers turned the right way and staying that way without turning more and falling out. Tedious but doable. This works to mount the keepers. There is a little wiggle room (you can pull out the drawer about 3mm), so if this rattles over time I'll add a spacer of some kind to the back of the keeper.

It’s also worth noting that the Legrabox drawers are soft close, and it’s strong enough to pull these latches so they catch the keeper.

When I was drilling the hole for my last latch (black drawer under the tall cabinet), I must have misread the tape because when I mounted it, I discovered that it was hitting the keeper rather than sliding past and catching. After yelling at myself, then telling myself it's not the end of the world, worst case is remake one drawer front, then I was like OH HECK WHAT IF. And I took the keeper off and closed the drawer, and the latch caught on the t-slot perfectly. This would make a super clean appearing install for anyone who wants to avoid the keepers sticking up into your cabinets or down into your drawers to catch on things (cc: @njvagabond ). The latches themselves do protrude into the drawer though of course. I have yet to decide if I'll remake this drawer front to have a latch with the keeper. The reason would be so that the latch lines up with the top drawer in my stack of four. Right now it's about 8mm higher. Hard to notice, so this will be a future-me project if I decide it's worth it after I get the rest of my paneling built.

It’s also worth noting that the Legrabox drawers are soft close, and it’s strong enough to pull these latches so they catch the keeper.

So there are at least two options for using these Southco latches to 8020. Make sure to measure super carefully of course, and reference the instructions. YMMV.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,840 Posts
It's a pain to install these for drawers where the latch is at the top of the drawer, because you have to get the hammers turned the right way and staying that way without turning more and falling out.
FWIW - I think the diamond shaped economy drop in t-nuts might be a bit easier cuz they have a profile you pull into the slot to prevent rotation. The ones with the little springs on them (intended for vertical slots) might also be an option for situations like this. IIRC 8mm is the biggest thread though.

The Southco latches I'm using will catch on the slot of 8020. You don't need a keeper. This is with 15 series and 5/8" fronts covered with HPL.
When I was looking at this possibility for inset drawers it looked like the latch would need to be too close to the edge of the drawer face. It seems that the 1.5" rails and full overlap drawer face are key to making the latches work without the keeper. 🤷‍♂️

As to not suffer ridicule from the peanut gallery, I would be remiss to not point out how fabulous your manicure looks in that first shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,983 Posts
FWIW - I think the diamond shaped economy drop in t-nuts might be a bit easier cuz they have a profile you pull into the slot to prevent rotation. The ones with the little springs on them (intended for vertical slots) might also be an option for situations like this. IIRC 8mm is the biggest thread though.
Most of my connections with series 15 were done with carriage bolts. To use carriage bolts with 90 degree angle connectors it requires the DIY angle holes to be offset. Holes must be 1" from the apex to prevent nuts from hitting each other.

For internal threads when you have access to the extrusion end to load the nut, the inexpensive double and triple slide-in economy t-nuts (#3279 and #3285) work well. With the 2-hole put a set screw in one hole to hold the nut in place and use the second threaded hole for the nut. Keeps nut in place in a vertical slot. With the 3-hole the set screw is in the center hole and the other two holes are used to prevent the attachment from rotating.
 

·
Registered
2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
Joined
·
710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #432 ·
@njvagabond There are none of those type of nuts available (that I could find) with 10-32 threads that also fit 15 series. M4 would probably work, so others who are considering this could look at this and this. 8020.net takes forever to ship though, and McMaster-Carr is basically next day or 2 day. Choose your poison.

@orton Not really relevant to the current conversation. We all appreciate you continuing to provide the same information about your build over and over, but please at least choose part of it that's relevant to the current topic. Maybe you don't remember, but in fact you and I have even discussed this before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,802 Posts
‘Would this work?
BTW, if anyone wants to see more of that one, it's here:
I am eternally on the lookout for something like this in stainless steel, so got kind of excited when it said it was available in a number of different materials. But then it only showed zinc-plated steel (of course that's likely fine for interior cabinetry). Gives me a site to poke around though - thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,983 Posts
@orton Not really relevant to the current conversation. We all appreciate you continuing to provide the same information about your build over and over, but please at least choose part of it that's relevant to the current topic. Maybe you don't remember, but in fact you and I have even discussed this before.
I guess I was mistaken. The post quoted was about nuts in the extrusion. My post was about nuts in the extrusion. I will refrain from posting in your thread. Hate to see you frustrated.

All is good.
 

·
Registered
2021 AWD HR Avalanche Grey
Joined
·
710 Posts
Discussion Starter · #437 ·
More cabinetry progress today!

I built side panels for the bench around the toilet. I built the door also, but can't mount it yet because apparently I didn't buy enough hinges. On order. Not seeing the toilet immediately when you open the slider is one of the biggest improvements. The door is just propped up on a piece of ply for this photo. It'll be straight and flush when attached.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Window Car Van


I started prototyping the panel for hiding the fridge. I used some scrap 8020 (3075) as upright supports for a panel. I bolted that through the little slots at the edge of the Dometic fridge slide using 4x 1/4-20 bolts. Next I made a panel out of 5/8" with a cutout to operate the locking mechanism for the fridge slide. I drilled 4 holes to bolt the panel to the 8020 upright supports. I didn't have the right length of 5/16" bolt to get through the 5/8" to the t-nut. I got two 1" bolt to barely catch enough to verify that this system will work. I ordered some longer bolts to match the rest of my visible finish hardware. They come Tuesday and I'll pick up this project then. I also made a thin panel for below the fridge. This will eventually have some power outlets. It's attached with 3M command strips. We'll see how those hold up, and if they're not strong enough I'll try something else. Just hard to reach for bolts.

Floor Wood Bumper Flooring Gas


Rectangle Wood Automotive design Flooring Floor



I also finished the panels for the upper cabinets above the bed. I used WilsonArt Snow Geo to match my other uppers, bolted to the bottom of the frame and a side panel. I will see if eventually I want a panel at the other end by the back door. I will fill the exposed t-slots with the grey gasket finishing material to make it look more finished. I really like just having soft bins up there. They are easy to tote for laundry, nothing spills out like can happen with overhead cabinets, and it's super light.


Wood Building Shade Gas Composite material





Automotive exterior Vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive design



I was so afraid of starting the finish cabinetry a month or so ago and wow what a difference it is making. After this, I'll only have paneling on the slider and rear doors, and a couple of roof rack things (one surprise if I can make it work!).


Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Fixture Vehicle door


Vehicle Automotive design Airplane Aircraft Window
 
421 - 440 of 521 Posts
Top