[Brandon]

Hello,

we picked up our new 2022 transit on Thursday and drove it home 1600 miles. We are now going to start converting it to a camper for full time retirement living for a few years until we decide where we want to live and get tired of the travel. I'm expecting 2-5 years. We have lots we want to see and do so it may take a while.

Here is a list of what we plan for our build, some may change but most wont.



Items purchased already

Transit 350HD High Roof Extended DRW Avalanche Grey (Not AWD)
Adventure Wagon interior kit (Ordered reading June 16th)
FLVC roof rack and ladder
Scopema seat swivels
AMA half slider windows Behind driver and on sliding door
AMA bunk half sliders (Coming with AdWag kit)
300Ah SOK 24v 100Ah batteries
Victron Electronics
2200 watt inverter for DC-AC-DC charging with multiplus
Killmat
AVC Floor kit
8020 series 15 for framing
Fiamma F45S-350 awning

Items yet to purchase

Roof fan
Dome fan for shower
Roof air 12 or 24 volt to be added later
400-600 watts of solar on roof
300 watts portable solar for when parked in the shade
Rixen Hydronic heat and water heat
Cassette toilet
Flooring
Lots of little items
Grey tank(s)
Fresh tank
Lights
Window covers
Insulation
24V refrigerator
Sink/faucet
Overhead shelf kit
Method 901 wheels

The idea for inside

Platform bed in rear for E-W sleeping
Largeish garage under bed for junk and 2 ebikes
Kitchen from bed forward on sider side
Driver side will have shower/bathroom and we will decide the rest after we see how much room that takes.
Shower will be recirculating
Kitchen will use an induction cooktop
Grey water tank(s) under van for Kitchen and Shower
30-40 gallons of fresh water

We went with the 300Ah or battery to run the AC and the AC is for our dog when we have to leave him in a hot van for a few hours. I know the 400-900 watts of solar is not really enough but we only have so much room on the roof. The Alternator charging may not be enough either if we find ourselves running the batteries flat. I do not expect to run them flat. If we find we are running the batteries down a lot I will add an after market second alternator just for charging the batteries. I also plan on having enough room for 4th battery.

Other than the above I will figure out more as I go along. I plan on a 12-18 month build time so hoping I can complete that.

For now I will be installing the Killmat, roof rack, ladder, swivels and windows. After the AdWag kits gets here I will start on electronics and plumbing, Want to get the A-frame in before running wires around and starting on the battery cabinet.


Here is a pic of the van and some of my parts

 

[djb_rh]

DRW not very popular, so I’m curious why you chose it? Also, what’s the story behind ordering it 1600 miles away? Just curious.

Look forward to the build, though. Looks like a reasonable selection of items.


—Donnie

 

[Brandon]

DRW not very popular, so I’m curious why you chose it? Also, what’s the story behind ordering it 1600 miles away? Just curious.

Look forward to the build, though. Looks like a reasonable selection of items.


—Donnie

I wanted as much load capacity as I could get so I do not end up close to max weight when done and needing to add airbags or helper springs. I will still try to keep it light. Had too many cars, trucks and RV's that were always near max or over.

Ordered from CVM as I heard he was the best place to get it from and the local dealer was clueless. It paid off as I have my van and I'm happy with it. Gary Crossley Ford in Kansas City MO was great.

 

[Vanaroo]

There's nothing like a fresh pile of parts and supplies in the spare room! Looks fun

 

[Brandon]

There's nothing like a fresh pile of parts and supplies in the spare room! Looks fun

Spare (Exercise) room, garage and my office. When the AdWag kit gets here it will be a mess

 

[sprocketvan]

Your plan is similar to ours... Plan to travel full time for 4-6 years and then part time after that... We are still waiting on the van to be built by our friends at Ford. We do have a proposed date and VIN so there is still hope.. We do however, have 3-3.5 years to get it converted before we can retire and travel full time. We too have several piles of equipment that we have been gathering for the past year and somewhat of a 3D mockup in the extra garage.

 

[Brandon]

Your plan is similar to ours... Plan to travel full time for 4-6 years and then part time after that... We are still waiting on the van to be built by our friends at Ford. We do have a proposed date and VIN so there is still hope.. We do however, have 3-3.5 years to get it converted before we can retire and travel full time. We too have several piles of equipment that we have been gathering for the past year and somewhat of a 3D mockup in the extra garage.

Your plan sounds a lot like ours. We are going to build it out 1-1.5 years. We will use it during this time and after and retire in 3-4 years at 60-61. Rent our home out and take off. I'm hoping we stay on the road 5 years or more with time also spent with family and friends. Then come back and downsize our home in new location and use the van part time from then until we decide we are done.

 

[redfordvan.ca]

We just completed our build with the T350 DRW. We had to get it weighed (totally empty, only the fuel tank full) for insurance purposes: 4220kg which translates to 9284 lbs. That leaves us with about 1700 lbs. of extra weight we can add counting all supplies (and passengers.) By the time we add back in all of the equipment in the kitchen, garage, firewood, water, etc. along with 2 passengers I'm glad we did the 11000 lbs package.

Your van looks great! You'll have fun! (and some pain! - keep some bandaids handy!)

 

[gregoryx]

Congrats! Looking forward to seeing all that stuff get put to use!

 

[Brandon]

Congrats! Looking forward to seeing all that stuff get put to use!

You and me both. Starting on roof rack and seat swivels this week. Just want to get larger stuff out of garage. Then killmat. Windows after that as I’m waiting on a bit warmer weather. Still cold over night and highs around 55.

 

[UserAccessDenied]

AHH I'm jealous. We're still waiting on a VIN number for our high roof, extended, avalanche grey 350HD.... You'd think Ford would just knock them all out at once?!
Oh well, it's nice to see yours here so I can dream a little bit! Looking food so far!!

 

[Brandon]

First install done today.
Installed a Scopema swivel on the passenger side. We have the 10-way powered seats so I knew it could be a problem. I ended up using a 3/4 inch spacer (Temp spacer for now). This raised the seat high enough that the motor an wire harness are not a problem. We the seat in its lowest setting it is good for my wife to sit. The temp spacer is made up of nuts and washers for now, I’m looking for a solid 3/4 spacer to order now.
the wire harness just touches the motor as it goes over it, does not even move it so I do not need to worry about extra cover on the harness. I will keep an eye on it.
Did not have to cut off the child seat bracket.
Here are some pics.

 

[gregoryx]

First install done today.
Installed a Scopema swivel on the passenger side. We have the 10-way powered seats so I knew it could be a problem. I ended up using a 3/4 inch spacer ...

That seems like a LOT of spacer... 🤔

 

[Brandon]

That seems like a LOT of spacer... 🤔

I could maybe remove 1/8-1/4 inch but then the motor would rub the swivel and catch on the wire harness. Right now it is clear and everything moves great. All I would gain is the seat being 1/4 inch lower. I’m going to find a solid spacer and paint them black so it will not show so much.

 

[njvagabond]

I could maybe remove 1/8-1/4 inch but then the motor would rub the swivel and catch on the wire harness. Right now it is clear and everything moves great. All I would gain is the seat being 1/4 inch lower. I’m going to find a solid spacer and paint them black so it will not show so much.

I found that 1/2" was sufficient. It might rub a bit but there is no interference or crushing of the harness.
Aluminum bar stock is available at Grainger if you have one close. (was less $$ than local metal supply houses). I polished the edges on mine thinking it would look nice. Never even notice it unless you know it is there and looking for it.

see link in this post for pics of spacers
Scopema swivel install on 2020 AWD with powered seats
and post # 33 below showing install and clearance with 1/2" spacers
Grade 8 M8 - 1.25 35mm bolts are needed for 1/2" spacer

Looks like you were lucky and the holes in the seat base lined up. I had to drill all of them out on mine.

 

[Brandon]

I found that 1/2" was sufficient. It might rub a bit but there is no interference or crushing of the harness.
Aluminum bar stock is available at Grainger if you have one close. (was less $$ than local metal supply houses). I polished the edges on mine thinking it would look nice. Never even notice it unless you know it is there and looking for it.

see link in this post for pics of spacers
Scopema swivel install on 2020 AWD with powered seats
and post # 33 below showing install and clearance with 1/2" spacers
Grade 8 M8 - 1.25 35mm bolts are needed for 1/2" spacer

Looks like you were lucky and the holes in the seat base lined up. I had to drill all of them out on mine.

Thanks for the link. I'm trying to read all the stuff linked from there.
Did you have to do the brake relocation? I saw some saying with the push down brake you do not need to do that.
If so what does need to be done? I would rather not do the brake relocation if I can stay away from it.

 

[njvagabond]

Thanks for the link. I'm trying to read all the stuff linked from there.
Did you have to do the brake relocation? I saw some saying with the push down brake you do not need to do that.
If so what does need to be done? I would rather not do the brake relocation if I can stay away from it.

I ordered the push down brake so no relocation was needed. So if you order that option it was $200 well spent.
Only difference on the driver side is you need to cut a hole in the cover over the battery to re-rout the electrical harness for the seat. IIRC I removed the battery cable to rout the part of the harness under the cover, to make it clean and maybe(?) create some more slack.

While I was in there I did tighten up all of the battery connections a smidge. Snapped a few photos of the battery connections ... should have taken more.

 

[gregoryx]

Thanks for the link. I'm trying to read all the stuff linked from there.
Did you have to do the brake relocation? I saw some saying with the push down brake you do not need to do that.
If so what does need to be done? I would rather not do the brake relocation if I can stay away from it.

Agreed with @njvagabond - push down brake needs no changes. Wish I had the new push-BUTTON brake - would be so nice not to have that handle there... but used to it now, I suppose. 🤷‍♀️

On the height, whatever works for you. I wanted to keep them as low as possible. Ours isn't even a half-inch, IIRC. Probably more like 1/4" or so. And our cable rubs... but it's double-sleeved with split-loom and wrapped with gaffer's tape. Still looks as good a year later as when it was first done.

Driver's side really isn't much different or tougher with the fold-down brake. Just cut the cover seems easiest.

 

[Brandon]

Agreed with @njvagabond - push down brake needs no changes. Wish I had the new push-BUTTON brake - would be so nice not to have that handle there... but used to it now, I suppose. 🤷‍♀️

On the height, whatever works for you. I wanted to keep them as low as possible. Ours isn't even a half-inch, IIRC. Probably more like 1/4" or so. And our cable rubs... but it's double-sleeved with split-loom and wrapped with gaffer's tape. Still looks as good a year later as when it was first done.

Driver's side really isn't much different or tougher with the fold-down brake. Just cut the cover seems easiest.

Cut the Cover? Are you taking about the battery cover of the e-brake cover?
I assume the battery cover to get the harness in the right place

 

[njvagabond]

Cut the Cover? Are you taking about the battery cover of the e-brake cover?
I assume the battery cover to get the harness in the right place

Just the battery cover. No need to cut the brake cover.
...unless you want to fit your floor under the carpet to make a nice transition ... but that's another project