[Longboard]

I was looking through the downloaded manual just now and decided to read the section on break-in since I want to treat the new van correctly right from the get go. I assumed that in this day and age between the engineering, legal, and marketing departments there would be all kinds of advice, but that I would have to sift through it and decide for myself what would be really important and what would be just fine if ignored.
All I saw was this:

BREAKING-IN
You need to break in new tires for
approximately 300 miles (480
kilometers). During this time, your vehicle
may exhibit some unusual driving
characteristics. The engine also needs to
break in. Avoid hard accelerations and
driving too fast for the first 1000 miles
(1600 kilometers). If possible, avoid
carrying heavy loads up steep grades
during the break-in period.

Never guessed they would use terms like "too fast"
I'm not sure whether I should consult my kids or their grandparents on what defines too fast......

 

[VanMan]

The engine should have a load on it to "seat the rings" (not heavy, but a load) highway driving will do this (pistion rings). Put some "boost" (cylinder pressure) on it, just don't floor it.
At least that is what I will do.

This is why the TOP Ford guys get there engine "broken in" on the dyno @ the engine plant where they are built.

Run good oil (synth.) and fuel gas (top tier) (ECOBOOST/GDI)

True story: I was in Fords Dearborn dyno lab and they have 1 cell which was used to run race engines. Talking to some "old timers" about Fords 60's Le Mans GT40s engines, they told me that the lemans 427 engines where run on the dyno, pulled off, taken down the street to metro airport (DTW) loaded on TWA air frieghters (707s) and flown to France. The TWA guys where complaining that the engines "where still warm/hot" when they loaded them.

 

[Longboard]

Run good oil (synth.) and fuel gas (top tier) (ECOBOOST/GDI)

You planning on changing the oil at delivery? Or going synthetic after 1000 miles? Or waiting until the first recommended oil service interval?
We used to do early oil changes because:
1) The initial oil was special break-in oil
2) There was going to be many bits of metal fragments filtered early on.

Neither of those are supposed to be the case anymore, right?

 

[VanMan]

You planning on changing the oil at delivery? Or going synthetic after 1000 miles? Or waiting until the first recommended oil service interval?
We used to do early oil changes because:
1) The initial oil was special break-in oil
2) There was going to be many bits of metal fragments filtered early on.

Neither of those are supposed to be the case anymore, right?

I will run the break in oil, then switch to syn. (not to start a OIL fight, but I am a MOBIL1 guy).
I agree with your #1 and #2 . give your engine a chance to make some metal as it breaks in.
Highest friction point is pistion rings and cams, you know that you bought a "shim and bucket" engine engine? (superbike talk)

Sorry, I got distracted looking at vacuum/boost gauges, Roush sells a nice one. (check the F150 eco forums to install, or know what to look for)

 

[VanMan]

I will check with my "man in the field" @ CEP2. About the latest oil.
I was told "break in" oil is NOT high detergent oil.
See him Saturday, will report back.

 

[ted]

I always read that it's good to keep the break in oil and to change it when it is recommended, good to see some of you are sticking by that.

 

[79Ranger]

Given how many vehicles come from the factory with synthetic standard, I don't see an issue running it from the get go.
That is my plan.

 

[Sprinter_Owner]

When I buy new vehicles they get oil change at the recommenced intervals, no sooner and no later. So 10k for the first. Ill affects, none.

 

[Dwight]

This racer has some real world info on break-in
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[Sprinter_Owner]

I agree a hard run is important to break in, and allow the pistons to fully extend in both directions at high RPMs. I never really did any special break in routine, just drove normal and hit it every once in a while to see what the new engine would do.

 

[VanMan]

The break in secrets are not a secret. If you read his report (racer), it is mostly correct for us.
The 300 mile is the majic # for things to happen. Because LongBoard got (and has drove) the 3.5L eco, its easy for him to "create" cylinder pressure because of the turbos. When He or maybe I shoud say "I" get mine, the first tank of gas is going to go quick, and the engine will be on boost. This is the"seating of the rings" he is referring to (racer).
My superbike was done (on the road) as he discribes. (2.5 hp/cubic in engine). After 300 miles, its WFO.
Car or truck engines don't share the oil with the transmission, so ball/roller bearings and the shearing of the oil does not happen.
I agree with the NON syn. oil be used for break in and this is why Factory oil is NON syn. and NON detergent.
Also this is why the "Top cats" @ Ford get there engine run on the dyno so the car or truck run at 100%.
It's my opinion and feel free to do as you want. Its YOUR vehicle not hime.

 

[orton]

I did my duty on the two Transits I drove. Foot in it. I hope the future owners appreciate my help.

 

[SuprMover]

I have 1800 miles on mine, and it seems "broken-in" to me. The transmission has settled down quite a bit. Ford knows that the 3.7L is no replacement for the V8 models, so the transmission downshifts often.

 

[Todd]

My chevy pick up down shifts a lot, and that's one reason why I want it gone. Todd

 

[star gazer]

I found this thread about break in. My van may be to me soon and I have a 2000 mile trip coming up right away. Might only have a week or so to get it broke in. The trip will be towing my small Casita travel trailer, and hauling about 1000 lbs of gear in the van.

I will be on I75 which I normally average about 62-65 mph towing. Will have Jellico mountain to go up after about 90 miles or so. Pretty steep and long grade. Should I drive normal or give it a work out?

Dean

 

[Kahuna]

SG. I would not recommend going on a trip towing, constant freeway speeds etc. without proper break in. But if you have to then I would follow the rule; No hard starts, No constant freeway speeds, No lugging of the motor. The fact that you are aware of the proper break in should be enough. Have a great trip.

 

[Longboard]

I just climbed and descended that hill last Friday but still in my old vehicle. Plenty of truckers were at 45
MPH on 75 southbound with their flashers on. Just stick with them if in doubt.
Hope to do it again in Feb but in the Transit!
Saw two of them on the road today in Key West, one low roof wagon one med roof Wagon. Both white.

 

[Whitedog]

One important thing to remember if taking a long trip early in your vans life is to use cruise control. You want natural variences in engine RPM and load. We picked up our wagon with 22 miles on it and drove it home 250 miles over one small mountain pass and another larger pass. Constantly changing loads. Occasionally I would put the coals to her, but mostly I just drove it.

Now for next 20,000 miles I am expecting the real break in to happen on our Duro torque.