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Bought a used cargo, previous owner was electrical engineer, no idea what to remove and leave

840 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  njvagabond
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Recently bought a used cargo van from a dealer that was previously used as a work van by an electrical engineer. I did not realize how extensive the aftermarket wiring was and thought it'd be not that hard to remove (stupid I know). There is wiring (mostly attached to this external battery the previous owner left) going under the seats and into the interior cavity. I figured since the battery is not in use, I could just cut/get rid of everything to restore it to factory condition (and keep the battery) but am afraid the wiring be spliced with something essential or somehow I'm going to **** something up badly...if it's too risky to do this myself, how much $$$ am I looking at to have someone look at this and help remove stuff?



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The + connection(s), typically red wires , for that stuff is probably ultimately connected to a post on the side of the seat or to the positive of the battery, which is under the seat (4 bolts to remove seat)
The - connection(s), typically black are either to something metal on the the van chassis somewhere or the negative terminal of the battery.
There may be a small gage wire(s) like the one from the solenoid (cylindrical silver thingie) the ties to a connector under the seat.
Basically trace all that stuff in the photo back to it's source and remove. First thing you should do before messing with any of that is disconnect the battery negative and put that cable where it can't touch any other metal. You will need to take the seat off to do that.
If you post photos of the wiring under the seat while you are there it will help folks guide you. Also take a shot of any wiring to the seat. That will also help.
Something that you can easily do yourself ...assuming the EE did it right, there was no need to "splice in" they should just be additional connections.

If you elect to have someone do the work, IMO it shouldn't take anymore than an hour ...and that is generous.
I'd suggest you do it yourself, cuz it's not difficult and a good way to learn about the battery connections in your van.

FWIW, it looks like what you have is an inverter that was run of a now removed auxiliary battery that was connected/isolated from the van's battery by the solenoid that I mentioned above. If you were to clean up the wiring and add a deep cycle battery with the same chemistry as the one other the seat (either AGM or sealed lead acid) you would have some AC power in the van if that is of any use to you. What are your plans for the van Stan? :)
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No need to remove the seat to access the batteries.

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Thank you both so much, especially nvjabond for such a detailed response. Saved me a panic attack and visit to the electrician. I fiddled around like you recommended.

The + connection(s), typically red wires , for that stuff is probably ultimately connected to a post on the side of the seat or to the positive of the battery, which is under the seat (4 bolts to remove seat)
The - connection(s), typically black are either to something metal on the the van chassis somewhere or the negative terminal of the battery.
Yup! Here's what I found:






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The wires on the side of the seat are most likely energized by switch #3 and #4 on your upfitter switches (on dog house). There will also likely be a whole bunch of extra wiring attached to that harness that is part of the upfitter kit. We usually see it stuffed up behind the glove box or stuffed in that void next to the batteries.
Start by getting rid of extra cables going to the battery posts; 2 positives and 2 negative. Follow one of the factory positive cables to the busbar/distributor to see if anything extra is wired into that.
HMM ... does not look like the factory dual battery wiring is in place.
Could it possibly be that the front battery is wired as an isolated house battery and the rear is the vehicle battery?

The reason I mention it is if that is the case you could end up with nothing wired to the front battery after removing all the extra stuff. Well I guess there could still be a ground wire left, but that looks not to be the case bases on what I can see.

Anyone else seeing it like that?
Could it possibly be that the front battery is wired as an isolated house battery and the rear is the vehicle battery?
Doesn't look like it. Other than the pair of pos/neg direct runs, it seems pretty much untouched. Factory setup should be...Negative side has a 2ga(?) bridge cable between contacts with the main 1/0 cable on the rear and a ring terminal on the front for 2 10ga wires (probably upfitter 3/4). Positive side should have 2 1/0 runs to a distributor set of busbars underneath the back right cover. Only other thing on positive is a small 20ga wire with a fuse terminal which I don't know what is for.
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Hey @njvagabond, I retook some photos of the dual battery

first battery (standing from behind driver seat)




second:

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Also here are the extra wiring that goes from the back of the van to the front:












In this last one: the wires go behind the passenger dash/front panel, and at a certain point joins with "wiring harness" I believe its called?




Should I just hire an electrician at this point?
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Also here are the extra wiring that goes from the back of the van to the front:
You'll need to find out what connector they're going into. There should only be a few options, a few 6-pin connectors and the 43-pin HSVIC. If it's any of the 6-pins, you're fine just disconnecting the whole thing. 43-pin is a little trickier as the canbus wires still need to be looped. New vans were supplied with a blank plug; maybe the guy saved it?



Should I just hire an electrician at this point?
I wouldn't, the previous owner did a lot of things the right way. You've already cleaned up the battery box. Most likely these cables running to the back are all positives of some kind (vBatt, vPower, or Upfitter). Worst case, just cut them and tape the ends up.
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Negative side has a 2ga(?) bridge cable between contacts with the main 1/0 cable on the rear and a ring terminal on the front
I am not seeing a bridge between the 2 battery negatives.
Positive side should have 2 1/0 runs to a distributor set of busbars underneath the back right cover
But this looks to be the case ... especially in the new pics.

@josborne1234 ... I'd defer to @sYfte ... definitely MUCH more knowledgeable than me on this stuff.

Also here are the extra wiring that goes from the back of the van to the front:
So all those cut wires look to be added stuff. IMO you are on the right path tracing them back to their source to disconnect or cut off where you want. Are the ones that are connected into the factory(?) harness behind the dash cut at the other end? If so then you could remove them and "terminate" them with some heat shrink tubing Amazon or local store (auto, hardware, etc).

All that stuff on the roof can eventually come off and the holes can get sealed off. You might want to leave light over the slider and eventually hook it back up, it could be handy. If you use the search box at the top of the page, there are some discussion on how people have sealed up holes in the roof.

Should I just hire an electrician at this point?
You've got this. Some other helpful folks might chime in on this thread.
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I am not seeing a bridge between the 2 battery negatives.
It's sneaky. It dips down between the battery and the plastic box. But yes, the latest pics show the battery area pretty much stock now.



This was literally my van yesterday. Getting the winch power done properly, adding a negative busbar, and it's hard to see, but on the inside above the external mega fuse holder is a SmartShunt.
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It's sneaky. It dips down between the battery and the plastic box. But yes, the latest pics show the battery area pretty much stock now.
Thanks. Now I see it. Yup sneaky right angle lug. See I was right ... OP should defer to you. :)

You project looks like more fun that mine. My '04 Acura seem to need a new starter. I think I've gone through of all the diagnostics I can to rule out everything else in the circuit (I have no FSM/electrical drawing) , before I go through the replacement ... which requires removing the intake manifold (with one blind lower bolt) ... and all the stuff in the way of that. :mad: At least thanks to a really good YT video I found I know what to expect. But not being the most electrically proficient ... there is always some doubt. :rolleyes:

Funny story? As I am checking battery voltage ...all of a sudden, zilch. Doesn't make sense. So I figure maybe my newish cheap "fancy" clamp meter must be NG. So I grab a 9V to confirm it's not something with the car. Nope, meter still NG. I grab my old faithful really cheap meter and the readings on the car are as expected. Go back to the new meter, when I realized one probe was not fully seated. Like I said ... not the most electrically proficient. :ROFLMAO:
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HMM ... does not look like the factory dual battery wiring is in place.
Could it possibly be that the front battery is wired as an isolated house battery and the rear is the vehicle battery?

The reason I mention it is if that is the case you could end up with nothing wired to the front battery after removing all the extra stuff. Well I guess there could still be a ground wire left, but that looks not to be the case bases on what I can see.

Anyone else seeing it like that?
yes, my thought as well.
yes, my thought as well.
Well then that make two of us that look to be wrong. :) See post 13.
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