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I used 1 can of 3M 90 with sheet vinyl i got at Lowes for $1.00 sq ft. Turned out great and have no issues. View attachment 177774
View attachment 177775
3m 90, very interesting! That would definitely be preferable. How long has it been and what sort of temperature conditions has it been exposed to? Nice finishings! PS is your sheet vinyl tarkett?
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I still stand by (the proper) adhesive being the best option. There are way too extreme temperature swings, with various parts of the vinyl pinned down by the cabinets and not pinned down elsewhere, for no adhesive to keep a really flat floor.

Even despite epoxy not working on my particular sheet vinyl (it was foolish not to do an adhesion test beforehand). Epoxy works great for Lonseal brand, I’m pulling up my vinyl and using gorilla construction adhesive.

A good vinyl floor should last the life of the van.
 

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I still stand by (the proper) adhesive being the best option. There are way too extreme temperature swings, with various parts of the vinyl pinned down by the cabinets and not pinned down elsewhere, for no adhesive to keep a really flat floor.

Even despite epoxy not working on my particular sheet vinyl (it was foolish not to do an adhesion test beforehand). Epoxy works great for Lonseal brand, I’m pulling up my vinyl and using gorilla construction adhesive.

A good vinyl floor should last the life of the van.
I got tarkett fibrefloor sheet vinyl from lowes and the installation instructions say to use Tarkett Q-bond One or 959 Vinyl Plank and Tile adhesives. Is there any reason you’re going with gorilla construction adhesive over those?

 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I got tarkett fibrefloor sheet vinyl from lowes and the installation instructions say to use Tarkett Q-bond One or 959 Vinyl Plank and Tile adhesives. Is there any reason you’re going with gorilla construction adhesive over those?


I have tarkett vinyl as well, but not sure what backing it has.

Purpose made floor vinyl adhesive is a bad choice for a van, the manufacture directions/tech data specifically say not to use it in areas that see high or low temperatures. The adhesives are designed to be used inside climate controlled buildings (that typically see temps only from 50-80 degrees year round. The adhesive will fail at some point outside these temps and won’t be able to deal with the large amounts of expansion and contraction the vinyl has with the van’s temp swings.

A van can have temp swings from 0 degrees to 110 degrees quite easily. Construction adhesive and epoxy are much stronger than floor adhesive, and designed for large temp swings. Just make sure to test the adhesive bond on a small sample of your specific flooring first (I.e. cut a small square, and glue/clamp it to a piece of wood for 24 hours, then see how hard it is to rip the piece off). With construction adhesive, the vinyl backing itself rips and fails before the adhesive releases (meaning the bond is stronger than the material, which is good). This means the vinyl will be forced to stay flat and expland and contract at the rate of the wood subfloor beneath it.

Pl 3X and Clear gorilla construction adhesive worked best in my tests, I plan to use the clear when I re-glue my vinyl in a couple weekends. Make sure you have rollers and a lot of flat objects/boxes with weights to put over the vinyl while the adhesive cures
 
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I have tarkett vinyl as well, but not sure what backing it has.

Purpose made floor vinyl adhesive is a bad choice for a van, the manufacture directions/tech data specifically say not to use it in areas that see high or low temperatures. The adhesives are designed to be used inside climate controlled buildings (that typically see temps only from 50-80 degrees year round. The adhesive will fail at some point outside these temps and won’t be able to deal with the large amounts of expansion and contraction the vinyl has with the van’s temp swings.

A van can have temp swings from 0 degrees to 110 degrees quite easily. Construction adhesive and epoxy are much stronger than floor adhesive, and designed for large temp swings. Just make sure to test the adhesive bond on a small sample of your specific flooring first (I.e. cut a small square, and glue/clamp it to a piece of wood for 24 hours, then see how hard it is to rip the piece off). With construction adhesive, the vinyl backing itself rips and fails before the adhesive releases (meaning the bond is stronger than the material, which is good). This means the vinyl will be forced to stay flat and expland and contract at the rate of the wood subfloor beneath it.

Pl 3X and Clear gorilla construction adhesive worked best in my tests, I plan to use the clear when I re-glue my vinyl in a couple weekends. Make sure you have rollers and a lot of flat objects/boxes with weights to put over the vinyl while the adhesive cures

thank you, very much appreciate all that info. can you confirm-is this the clear gorilla construction adhesive you are going with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Yes that’s the one. Just do the sample test to be sure before using it in the entire floor.

I’d get a 1/16" x 1/32" x 1/32" notched trowel to create a nice even surface with the adhesive. Do half of the floor at a time (lay down the entire sheet and make sure it fits perfectly. Weigh down half the sheet, and flip up the other half. Put down adhesive and trowel flat. Then slowly roll out the 1/2 of the vinyl sheet down. Then flip the other half up and repeat. Use a rolling pin while you roll the sheet down to give it good contact and work out any air bubbles. Then put flat boxes or pieces of wood with weights on top of everything (make sure van is on a Level surface for the whole job)
 

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I still stand by (the proper) adhesive being the best option. There are way too extreme temperature swings, with various parts of the vinyl pinned down by the cabinets and not pinned down elsewhere, for no adhesive to keep a really flat floor.

Even despite epoxy not working on my particular sheet vinyl (it was foolish not to do an adhesion test beforehand). Epoxy works great for Lonseal brand, I’m pulling up my vinyl and using gorilla construction adhesive.

A good vinyl floor should last the life of the van.
Let us know how it goes pulling up vinyl. And what is the downside to using HD vinyl that will float? I decided after the vinyl was down I needed to router a shallow channel in my plywood floor for the Propex power cord to my GZ. No problem. Over a year now and floor is totally flat and hasn't shifted. And after 5-6 years I may get tired of it or in fact it could get damaged in the high traffic area near the slider- who knows. I do know it will be very easy to remove and then use it as a template for a new piece. Doubt that would be possible ripping out a glued down floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
If using gorilla I'd have a roller for sure. I used it between my XPS and wood.
Roller for the adhesive? Or to roll the sheet vinyl

What did you use? The first time I did my floor I used a baking rolling pin which actually worked pretty well haha
 

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@ArgonautVans to roll the vinyl. The gorilla holds it form and will need to be rolled if you want a even flat surface IMO

I rolled mine with a pin roller as I put the vinyl down. Just sprayed it and the floor with 3M90 and rolled it out. Came out really good. I'd do the same again.
 

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Would that be west systems 105 and 406?
I'm not @JustAnotherUser but since he used WEST System and colloidal silica, then yes, that would undoubtedly be WEST 105 resin and 406 thickener. Don't forget that you'd also need the hardener to go with the 105 (so, depending on your temps at time of application, eg 205, 206, etc.)
 

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Yes that’s the one. Just do the sample test to be sure before using it in the entire floor.

I’d get a 1/16" x 1/32" x 1/32" notched trowel to create a nice even surface with the adhesive. Do half of the floor at a time (lay down the entire sheet and make sure it fits perfectly. Weigh down half the sheet, and flip up the other half. Put down adhesive and trowel flat. Then slowly roll out the 1/2 of the vinyl sheet down. Then flip the other half up and repeat. Use a rolling pin while you roll the sheet down to give it good contact and work out any air bubbles. Then put flat boxes or pieces of wood with weights on top of everything (make sure van is on a Level surface for the whole job)
have you redone your floor yet? will be putting mine down with pl3x this weekend. the gorilla construction adhesive was too expensive to get up here
 

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@ArgonautVans to roll the vinyl. The gorilla holds it form and will need to be rolled if you want a even flat surface IMO

I rolled mine with a pin roller as I put the vinyl down. Just sprayed it and the floor with 3M90 and rolled it out. Came out really good. I'd do the same again.
I have a few cans of 3m90. what temp range has your floor seen and how long has it held up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I have not yet, unfortunately haven’t worked on the van much the past couple months. Have you done a sample swatch gluing the vinyl you have to the wood you’re using? I’d highly recommend you do that first before gluing anything

i would be very hesitant to use 3m90 for the top sheet vinyl, it’s not repositionable at all once you stick it down, I think it’d be very difficult to lay it down flat and aligned without any bubbles
 

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I have not yet, unfortunately haven’t worked on the van much the past couple months. Have you done a sample swatch gluing the vinyl you have to the wood you’re using? I’d highly recommend you do that first before gluing anything

i would be very hesitant to use 3m90 for the top sheet vinyl, it’s not repositionable at all once you stick it down, I think it’d be very difficult to lay it down flat and aligned without any bubbles
yes will be doing a test strip today. its funny I did a tiny test with 3m 90, left it for 24 hrs and the vinyl peeled right off-the glue was still tacky. maybe I sprayed too much. will report back!
 
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