Bedliner
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I was thinking of the same thing... although I'd go for the Line-X two part professionally sprayed stuff. The DIY is mostly solvent. I would be worried about abrasion between the floor and bed liner eventually wearing it away.
It's probably a good idea to create a weather proof tub before a flooring product goes down.
It's probably a good idea to create a weather proof tub before a flooring product goes down.
If you are putting in a floor, there should be no reason for a rough bedliner product. However, a heavy (marine) epoxy paint could be in order. I would use International 264, only because it is relatively cheap and I have a couple gallons laying around. It is Coast Guard approved for their vessels. Alternatively is Ameron 235, which is better but pricy and hard to find. Or try Home Deport for cheap and possibly failure prone alternative. You would have to lightly sand the paint surface and clean with mild solvent. The sanding is the main reason I did not paint floor. I also did not really think it was really necessary since you have a complete clean painted floor (no old paint scratches, etc). The existing paint seemed quite thick. Plus I laid down a EZCool layer and taped the seams to try to keep out moisture and water.
Will not paint the floor. I will have a 2 1/8" thick floor above the top of the corrugations. I run utilities in the floor. Bottom up construction:
1. First fill between corrugations with 1/2" closed cell foam. (corrugations are 7/16" tall)
2. 1/8" full coverage 1 #/sq. ft. loaded vinyl with seams taped. (Moisture barrier and sound deadening)
3. 1/2" plywood
4. Framework of 1 1/2" 80/20
5. Fill between 80/20 with 1" rigid insulation, .090" fiberglass shower wall and finally 3/8" gym rubber.
80/20 will have 5 bolts through the floor. 3 using existing holes and 2 new holes. There will be 7 aluminum angles bolted to wall at D-ring tapped holes. Plywood will bolt to those angles. Cabinets will be 80/20 bolted to the floor 80/20. The refrigerator/microwave/shower cabinet will bolt to the floor and to the ceiling ribs in two places for additional floor hold down. Connections at top will be vertical 1/2" plywood for thermal isolation. Floor 80/20 is also thermally isolated.
I also am thinking of using manually applied bedliner under roof and on the side walls to prevent corrosion. Anyone have any negative comments on why that would not work?
1. First fill between corrugations with 1/2" closed cell foam. (corrugations are 7/16" tall)
2. 1/8" full coverage 1 #/sq. ft. loaded vinyl with seams taped. (Moisture barrier and sound deadening)
3. 1/2" plywood
4. Framework of 1 1/2" 80/20
5. Fill between 80/20 with 1" rigid insulation, .090" fiberglass shower wall and finally 3/8" gym rubber.
80/20 will have 5 bolts through the floor. 3 using existing holes and 2 new holes. There will be 7 aluminum angles bolted to wall at D-ring tapped holes. Plywood will bolt to those angles. Cabinets will be 80/20 bolted to the floor 80/20. The refrigerator/microwave/shower cabinet will bolt to the floor and to the ceiling ribs in two places for additional floor hold down. Connections at top will be vertical 1/2" plywood for thermal isolation. Floor 80/20 is also thermally isolated.
I also am thinking of using manually applied bedliner under roof and on the side walls to prevent corrosion. Anyone have any negative comments on why that would not work?
I've been contemplating some different options as well for a floor that will handle sand and saltwater. I also want to keep the floor thin as I have a MR on the way as well.
I was considering using the same material for the floor as I will on the lower wall panels. Depending on the material I use I was hoping I could put some flexible sealant/caulk and maybe even a rubber 'baseboard'.
Not sure that I would actually do it but the ultimate goal would be to be able to hose out the back of the van.
I was considering using the same material for the floor as I will on the lower wall panels. Depending on the material I use I was hoping I could put some flexible sealant/caulk and maybe even a rubber 'baseboard'.
Not sure that I would actually do it but the ultimate goal would be to be able to hose out the back of the van.
Has anyone here actually had the floor of his cargo van sprayed with Line-X or a similar brand of bed liner?
I'll be ordering a Transit in a few months and considering the following order of events:
1 - Take delivery of van
2 - Temporarily remove factory-ordered cargo wall protectors
3 - Install steel bulkhead/partition now to protect cabin from overspray
4 - Have Line-X sprayed on floor, wheel wells and perhaps 12" up the sides.
5 - Re-install the cargo wall protectors
6 - Install steel shelving units
I'm an electrician and the interior will be subject to some but not serious abuse. I think this approach will give me an attractive and durable floor for an everyday work truck.
Suggestions and opinions are sought, especially from those with Line-X.
Thanks in advance,
John
I'll be ordering a Transit in a few months and considering the following order of events:
1 - Take delivery of van
2 - Temporarily remove factory-ordered cargo wall protectors
3 - Install steel bulkhead/partition now to protect cabin from overspray
4 - Have Line-X sprayed on floor, wheel wells and perhaps 12" up the sides.
5 - Re-install the cargo wall protectors
6 - Install steel shelving units
I'm an electrician and the interior will be subject to some but not serious abuse. I think this approach will give me an attractive and durable floor for an everyday work truck.
Suggestions and opinions are sought, especially from those with Line-X.
Thanks in advance,
John
John, I had a large portion of my van's modified metal floor coated 10 years ago with Line X (or Rhino, can't recall and I'm not home to look it up), and it's held up great. I use my van primarily for traveling and/or camping so it doesn't get the abuse yours will. I occasionally carry stuff on the floor but mostly it's just to walk on.
I like how easy it is to clean -- still looks like new. Because it's inside there has been no fading that I can detect. Mine is light grey -- tried to match Econoline grey interior. Have been told that darker colors sometime fade over time.
In addition to protecting the steel from corrosion, it also adds a little sound and thermal insulation. Maybe not much but compared to bare metal it's a huge improvement. I can walk on it without freezing my bare feet in fairly cold temperatures. It doesn't replace insulation, but since my window van is not insulated well anyway, I didn't even try to insulate the floor much at all.
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I'm a carpenter and have a similar plan.
1. Pull the vinyl mat floor
2. Line-X the entire floor and up the sides about 12"
3. Ranger partition with sliding door with tempered glass window installed
4. Composite, or Marine plywood floor with rubberized top coating dropped on beads of silicone or construction adhesive on Line-X.
5. Let adhesive dry overnight.
My upfitter contact suggested dropping .5" G1S plywood directly on the bare floor and then Line-X over that and up the sides... Just allowing the floor to float and kind of be held in place by the Line-X. I'm not crazy about that idea at all. He said all the floors are just held in place by gravity and the shelving units on top of them. My van will have it's one and only shelving unit custom fabricated by me and it will be removable for when I need to fill the van with finished cabinetry. So weight and gravity don't really help me out much.
Anyone see an issue with dropping the ply on silicone or construction adhesive? I sure ain't going to drill through the floor.
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Quick alteration to this plan: Silicone the plywood floor over the Line-X, glue the plywood joints, or perhaps rabbit them out and insert and glue a flush filler to mechanically connect the pieces of plywood, then back to Line-X to have the ply coated. Done. Bomb-proof floor. No drilling required.
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I absolutely have, but my carpentry tools are large, heavy, and usually are stored in rolling toolboxes or soft bags that currently in my Sprinter occupy the area directly behind my partition. The idea of a more substantial cabinet is to move the items into a vertical arrangement, rather than across the floor. I've found the folding shelves to not be large or versatile enough.
Furthermore, I noticed that the upfitter units leave a lot of wasted space behind the shelving itself. I plan on contouring the back of my cabinet to the van wall. More work and time on my part, but exactly what I need, and probably cheaper. As long as I don't bill myself for my time.
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I ordered a Legend Fleet plywood floor. My understanding is it attaches using the stock tie down ring locations with supplied longer bolts. The drilling I will save for the System Edstrom racks I'm taking out of the Sprinter. Only need to put about ten holes in the floor to mount those.
The BEMM manual states to use 9mm (~3/8") Marine grade plywood for flooring. It also states that the wood floor should be ONE piece.. Marine Ply is generally considered stronger than the other types, and will give you a significant weight savings. When edge joined correctly, it is EXTREMELY strong.
I plan on using the 3/8 marine fir plywood. I'm going to make scarf joints (YouTube) to join all the plywood edges in order to make one large single piece of plywood floor. I've used them before on boat projects. These scarf joints are EXTREMELY strong when joined using the Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique, or even Sikaflex marine adhesive on the scarfs. Then I will use the floor liner supplied to trace the correct lines and locate the hole location on to he 'one piece' plywood floor. Once it is cut out, and drilled, and edges sanded, I will use a few coats of WEST SYSTEM epoxy to totally encapsulate all sides of the plywood sheet, including the edges. It will be bedded down using 3M Adhesive (probably NOT 3M 5200) or Sikaflex, and secured using the factory holes.
I REALLY LIKE your idea about taking every thing out of the van, and putting the 'bed liner' product on the floor and 1 foot up the walls! I'll probably do it as well.
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I never thought of fabbing the entire floor out of the van. That's a good idea. I have an extended body though. That's approximately 14'x65" to muscle into the van with wet adhesive all over the floor. Could potentially save a trip back to Line-X though. I'm expecting about 1000 bucks to Line-X the cargo area, and maybe another 500-750 to coat the ply once it's installed.
It's spendy, but I'm only going to do this once.
From your other post, it appears you have a Transit Connect? FYI there is a sub-forum dedicated to the Transit Connect:
Ford Transit Connect General Discussion - Ford Transit USA Forum
Most of this site is for the new 2015 full-sized Transit, although the Line-x question may apply to both the TC and Transit . . .
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My van shipped directly to my upfitter and is there right now. It shipped with the cargo protection panels in the rear, even though the order system wouldn't let us option those with the premium package. Score one for me. Anyway, they pulled the vinyl mat and put line-x on the sheet metal floor, then the KK-plus in light grey floats over top. Looking forward to seeing it.
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I just got my van back from getting the back line-x. I also had him spray the rockers and the bottom of the outside of the van as well. I run a window cleaning/pressure washing business. I hope this helps make it last a little longer.
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