[Anchorless]

I actually used garden weed barrier between the wood and metal in my van. It was a completely last minute, fortuitous decision - "hey, maybe I should put that there." The weed barrier was all I had that was a somewhat durable, soft fabric.

Worked out perfect so far.

 

[morey]

I actually used garden weed barrier between the wood and metal in my van. It was a completely last minute, fortuitous decision - "hey, maybe I should put that there." The weed barrier was all I had that was a somewhat durable, soft fabric.

Worked out perfect so far.

Nice idea, probably pretty cheap too.

 

[JanKay]

I am following your blog and trying to replicate your platform bed. I ordered the pre-bulbed steel plus nuts and installation tool by following your purchase link. The plugs fit the vans holes only to the point where the plug bows outward. How did you get the nuts into the holes? Would appreciate any help mo this. Thanks.

 

[orton]

I am following your blog and trying to replicate your platform bed. I ordered the pre-bulbed steel plus nuts and installation tool by following your purchase link. The plugs fit the vans holes only to the point where the plug bows outward. How did you get the nuts into the holes? Would appreciate any help mo this. Thanks.

Use hammer.

 

[morey]

Yep, what @ortan said, just a slight tap with a hammer.

 

[JanKay]

Are you not using the tool at all then? Just tapping them into the holes and calling it good? Sorry to be so clueless, but I've never even heard of these things prior to reading posts about Van conversions. Thanks again.

 

[morey]

Are you not using the tool at all then? Just tapping them into the holes and calling it good? Sorry to be so clueless, but I've never even heard of these things prior to reading posts about Van conversions. Thanks again.

Use hammer to tap in. Then use tool to secure the plusnut in place. Another forum member did a good write up: http://faroutride.com/plusnut/ .

 

[JanKay]

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

 

[sschefer]

In the future, if you have squeaks, you can use double sided tape between the metal and the wood. if you put it behind your attaching points and then between the attaching points you only need short 2" pieces. They will compress and only set it back about 1/16. You can also use adhesive felt pads, (available at home depot). Another option is butyl tape but it's more difficult to work with.

I have seen references to folks using Bituthene but I haven't tried it. This is also available at Home Depot and a is self adhesive rubberized asphalt over a HDPE membrane. It has a class A fire rating and is safe to use.

 

[orton]

In the future, if you have squeaks, you can use double sided tape between the metal and the wood. if you put it behind your attaching points and then between the attaching points you only need short 2" pieces. They will compress and only set it back about 1/16. You can also use adhesive felt pads, (available at home depot). Another option is butyl tape but it's more difficult to work with.

I have seen references to folks using Bituthene but I haven't tried it. This is also available at Home Depot and a is self adhesive rubberized asphalt over a HDPE membrane. It has a class A fire rating and is safe to use.

I glued 1/8" thick closed cell foam to the back of my 1/4" plywood wall covers. Have no idea if that prevented squeaks or not.

 

[surly Bill]

For squeaks; even blue tape (masking tape) will work for quite a while. I think a more permanent solution should be used, though. Felt, even cheap crafting felt, would work fine and not mess up the paint.

For rivnuts; I only have experience with the Harbor Freight multifunction rivet gun and the aluminum rivnuts that come with it. I've had very good luck with it, never pulled one out or stripped the threads. I'm not putting much load on anything, they are mainly to hold panels in place vertically on the walls of my Sprinter and now the T250. I use mainly 1/4-20, and I'm about out. I ordered some steel rivnuts to see if they'll work with my tool; I might have to add cheater bars over the handles! I don't do this enough to warrant buying a power or air rivnut tool, and I see in a pinch you can just use a bolt and a nut to set them.

The aluminum 1/4-20 that I have JUST ABOUT fit the stock holes in the T250, I had to round them out just a hair because I didn't want to take a hammer to them and dent the sheet metal. I imagine the steel ones will require drilling the holes a little bigger with a step bit. I'll use the built in 8mm threads where I can. Hey, maybe I should have ordered 8mm rivnuts so all the threads would be the same! Easy to drill out the aluminum rivnuts later if I decide to do that.

 

[orton]

For 1/4-20NC pre-bulbed inserts I use a $30.00 tool from McMaster-Carr. Part # 96349A305 "Wrench driven rivnut tool"

https://www.mcmaster.com/#nut-insert-installation-tools/=14w80lk (6th item down page)

It is small so fits in tight spaces. Works fine. A few times I had to use a tap to get bolt in because I did not hold the insert square with the wall. Maybe twice in 100 inserts.

The use of the hammer in the existing Transit steel is not heavy enough to deform the steel. Just tap enough to get the pre-bulbed shank though the hole. If you ream out hole then it requires painting the hole.

 

[tthrsn]

... Easy to drill out the aluminum rivnuts later if I decide to do that.

I decided to replace a row of aluminum rivnuts with bolts, washers and nuts. I found that a hammer and sharp chisel easily shaves the rivnut head off with just a few blows. It's easier than drilling.

I originally used the rivnuts at that particular location because I thought that they would be more convenient, but I needed more strength.

 

[bicyclist]

Hey, maybe I should have ordered 8mm rivnuts so all the threads would be the same!

Something to be said for that, but 6mm rivnuts fit all those holes where everyone is using ¼-20. Since it's a metric vehicle, I've chosen to use metric hardware. All of my vehicles, over the years, have been metric so I have mostly metric tools and it doesn't make sense to me to mix in standard hardware. Metric hardware is more expensive and not as easy to find, but as a percentage of the total cost of the project, it's a minor difference. I've spent way more on insulation than I'll ever spend on hardware.