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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Working on the bed design. I am thinking of running a 2x6 or similar North to South along the walls as shown in the picture. There will be a layer of Burma rubber or similar between the 2x6 and van steel as a squeak preventative (I hope).

The bed frame will be angle aluminum that sits on top of the 2x6 as shown and will have 2"x1" or thereabouts aluminum rectangular tubing welded East to West across the van between the two aluminum angles. 3/8" ply on top of the aluminum tube attached with sheet metal screws and mattress on the ply.

Motivation for the wood is it won't transmit significant heat to the bed frame. Morey got the squeakies when he directly bolted a 2xsomething to the van steel in the manner I am proposing, thus the rubber.

Edit: I need the bottom of the bed frame to be 25" off the finished floor. A 2x6 attached at the location shown gives the perfect 25" height for a shelf on which to rest the cross-wise frame members.

I will bolt the bed frame thru the 2x6 in each of the four corners using threaded rod. The frame will be removable.

The right rear wheel hump is shown in the lower left of the picture. The front pass seat in the middle left of the pix is rotated 90 degrees and is facing the drivers position, in case that caused any confusion.

Mostly I am concerned about squeaks and rattles.......

All input most welcome.
 

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Yeah, I was going to say that 1x6 might be better, since the load is vertical and carried by the screws anyway. I guess 2x6 because it comes out nicely with the aluminum angle? I guess with 2x6 you can easily add things like eyebolt lag screws as tiedown points without worrying about them pulling out or going through to the paint, too. Now I'm sold on the 2x6.

There's going to be heat on the interior wall of the van? Are you cooking meth in there?

As for squeak, there are a lot of things you can put in between. Felt, rubber, cork, or even rubber washers where the bolts/screws are and nowhere else. I've used click-lock floor underlayment foam with success.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yea, 2x6 seems crazy. But it does what is needed (provide a mounting surface at the right height above the available fastener locations in the body, isolate the aluminum bed frame from van metal, etc.) Just looks like crap.

You might be happy then that I've moved on from that idea. I now intend to install 4 vertical "legs" onto which a horizontal 2x2 aluminum angle will rest at the height of the previously proposed 2x6 top. The legs will be out of steel angle and will fasten to the D-ring attachment points (bottom of D pillars, on top of rear wheel hump). 1x2 aluminum rectangular tube will run east to west between the aluminum angles. Alum tube welded to alum angle, alum angle bolted to a small piece of steel welded into the top of the flange of the steel leg. 1/4" or more Burma rubber between the steel and aluminum.

Beauty of this version is there is nothing to squeak since nothing is rubbing. And the bed frame does not try to tie the sides of the van together nearly as much as the previous version. It is just sort of a 4-legged bed that sits on the D-ring bolts. It can move and flex as the van moves and flexes while in motion.
 

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Similar theory. 4 vertical legs. Two alum bar, two angle. Ikea bed rails hook onto horizontal alum angle bolted to the "legs". The legs are bolted into existing van wall holes. Works for a twin bed. No squeaks. Theoretically height adjustable by drilling additional holes for the horizontal rails.
 

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my Murphy bed is held in place by 4 motorcycle tie down straps -

folds up and down in 10 seconds -
can be removed from van in 3 minutes -
adjustable height and angle -- Easy

1 foot thick when folded against van wall -

no squeaks or noise at all -

bed is Not attached to wall of van using bolts or anything else -No hinges -
its Hanging from upper wall with 4 straps

usually leave bed down - it does not move around at all when driving -

I had made Murphy bed that was attached to wall with hinges -
but i tore it out and replaced with this design - Much Better -

most people way over build bed -
I did it myself on a bed 30 yrs ago - was super uncomfortable -
 

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Working on the bed design. I am thinking of running a 2x6 or similar North to South along the walls as shown in the picture. There will be a layer of Burma rubber or similar between the 2x6 and van steel as a squeak preventative (I hope).

All input most welcome.

This is similar to what I did. I initially planned to mount 2x6's to the van wall to attach aluminum rails across. I used the 2x6's (cut to 2x5) but I ended up adding legs to it for a few reasons: Since the wall was not square at the point where I wanted to attach the 2x5 it would have ended up at a slight angle and would need to be shimmed,. The wall at that spot was also a bit flimsy, so I didn't like the idea of setting rivnuts and using longer bolts to accommodate for shims . The legs provided additional support and allowed me to easily and quickly attach the wood frame at a lower point, where there were already factory drilled holes (and some factory threaded seatbelt attachment points). Now after using the van I am really glad I stuck some legs on it as they have provided lots of places to easily mount hooks and tie down points.



I used foam tape and foam drawer liner to isolate the wood from the wall, and the aluminum from the wood. I used that foam tape everywhere VHB tape was not needed and it has worked great and is very cheap in comparison. And using this stuff, unlike VHB, you can easily take stuff apart if you need to.



Hope that helps
 

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Eiko's solution is easy to execute, not expensive and the Ikea bed spring is comfortable and ventilates the bottom of the mattress. I'd copy that. Ikea has several versions of that bed spring.
 

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This is similar to what I did. I initially planned to mount 2x6's to the van wall to attach aluminum rails across. I used the 2x6's (cut to 2x5) but I ended up adding legs to it for a few reasons: Since the wall was not square at the point where I wanted to attach the 2x5 it would have ended up at a slight angle and would need to be shimmed,. The wall at that spot was also a bit flimsy, so I didn't like the idea of setting rivnuts and using longer bolts to accommodate for shims . The legs provided additional support and allowed me to easily and quickly attach the wood frame at a lower point, where there were already factory drilled holes (and some factory threaded seatbelt attachment points). Now after using the van I am really glad I stuck some legs on it as they have provided lots of places to easily mount hooks and tie down points.



I used foam tape and foam drawer liner to isolate the wood from the wall, and the aluminum from the wood. I used that foam tape everywhere VHB tape was not needed and it has worked great and is very cheap in comparison. And using this stuff, unlike VHB, you can easily take stuff apart if you need to.



Hope that helps
Thanks for he post. Just wondering if you have a few closeup shots of the bed. Thanks.
 

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Thanks for he post. Just wondering if you have a few closeup shots of the bed. Thanks.
.

Here are some other shots, I will take a few closeups when I get home
 

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Yea, 2x6 seems crazy. But it does what is needed (provide a mounting surface at the right height above the available fastener locations in the body, isolate the aluminum bed frame from van metal, etc.) Just looks like crap.
I would suggest cutting a "board" from the length of a nice 3/4" sheet of multi-ply plywood might get you something less crappy looking. The stability and strength of a "Europly" means you don't need to go construction-lumber-scale. Pricey though.
 

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Lumber quality and selection varies greatly by location. In my area most big box store "S-P-F Stud" (spruce-pine-fir) 2x4s and 2x6s are pretty crappy for project work and 1x2s and 2x2s are even worse. Unless I am using local hardwoods I get SYP (southern yellow pine) 2x8s or 2x10s and rip them on the table saw to the dimensions I want. Southern yellow pine is one of the hardest pines rivaling hardwood for strength and density.

Lumber coming out of a sawmill is appraised by trained inspectors and given a grade stamp. Learn to read the stamps on the lumber and you'll better understand what you are buying.

how-to-read-lumber-stamp
 

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most people way over build bed -
-
Shame on you Groovy - that's a pretty broad overstatement.

Most people don't do a lot of things the way you do. In particular, most people don't practically tear out everything they've ever done on their vans and done it over again.

Now you have me back to wanting to see that swivel seat you made yourself for only $20.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thought I'd update with pix of what I did as I've not seen this here exactly.

Bed mounts on 4 "posts". Fwd 2 posts utilize the D ring bolt above the rear wheel hump (this is an EL/HR van) and a 1/4 x 20 bolt drilled thru the 2-layers of sheet metal above the D ring. Post is 2x2x1/8" steel angle with a 2x2" steel piece welded at the top. Walnut spacer is used to give 1/2" clearance to van wall for a layer of polyiso to come later, and to isolate the steel post from the van steel. Rear 2 posts are same fabrication as fwd posts, just shorter, and are mounted using two 1/4x20 bolts. 1/16" sheet rubber is used to isolate the rear post from van steel. All 4 posts get a 2x2x1/4" piece of burma rubber on top to isolate the steel post from the aluminum bed frame and to allow for some movement as the van flexes going down the road.

Bed frame is mainly 1.5x1x1/8" aluminum rectangular tube and 2x2x3/16" aluminum angle w/ a few odd pieces used near the rear doors. Frame attaches to posts with 1 bolt in each post. Have a clearance of approx 1" to the rear doors. Have to cut off the little handle thingy on the right side rear door as it fouls the bed frame. Bed frame measures 68" wide x 76.5" long.

The extra north-south angle off to one side is to stiffen the frame. The web of that angle aligns with the gap between 2 sliders (not installed) thus its non-symmetrical location. I'll post about the sliders after they are installed.
 

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Lincoln,

Did you make those aluminum rails or buy them? They look great, and I like the concept. I'm just starting out on the build looking for ideas, but that one seems to strike a good balance between looking nice and yet not being permanent.

Hopefully you bought them --- I have no welding skills!

Thanks,
Erik
 

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Lincoln,



Did you make those aluminum rails or buy them? They look great, and I like the concept. I'm just starting out on the build looking for ideas, but that one seems to strike a good balance between looking nice and yet not being permanent.



Hopefully you bought them --- I have no welding skills!



Thanks,

Erik


I’m pretty sure that is a custom weldment. You could assemble something similar with a bolted assembly or 80/20 aluminum extrusions.
 
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