Think hard about your expected needs and placements.
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Just some off-the-cuff comments…and trying to assume you know nothing…so please don’t be insulted, but maybe you’ll fall asleep. I’ve seen some people who took short cuts get burned (not literally, but their power ran out in the middle of the night). That said, I’m not a total expert either.
I assume there are several models of Goal Zero with different wattage ratings, and probably different battery chemistries. You might tell us which model, and if Lithium or AGM (or other) battery chemistry (which I assume the model # will tell us). Is the DC -DC charger built in? I assume so, but, if not, what is it?
Watch a youtube or 2 (or 10) on basic solar system, or find a blog dedicated to this (yes, solar). In any diagrams you see, you can replace the solar charge controller and batteries with your goal zero, but chances are greater than zero (pun intended) you will someday want to add solar.
Most vids or blogs will start with rule #1: do an energy audit (as I quoted): how much do all your planned loads draw? Add some cushion for temperature variations (for instance, my fridge claims 360 watts / day…. At 70f ambient. Well, I’m sure it’s drawing much more on hot days…maybe upwards to 480w…40amp)
I assume you know Watts = volts x amps, and volts = amps resistance (V = I x R), but if, not, you might consider this math as you size this thing.
Google: Blue Sea Wire Size Wizard to calculate wire size to various loads. Use round trip lengths (eg, LED lights can be pretty thin, but thicker doesn’t hurt (except price and stiffness). The fridge will benefit from AT LEAST AWG10 unless very close to the battery (or goal zero). Especially with thin wire, run your wires in a conduit (plastic split wire loom), but thick wires too can be damaged and short things out. Fan: same, AWG10 if you plan to run on high, AWG12 minimum (??). Inbound charge wires can also be important, to not choke down the voltage getting through. The wizard defaults to 3% voltage drop, but for higher loads (like the fridge), less voltage drop can mean battery lasts a bit longer or charges faster, etc.
I would run wires from these loads to a fuse block (Blue Sea makes good ones…a 6-fuse block might give you some growth capability, even if you use only 3 fuses initially). Then, you can run a short thicker wire pair from your goal zero to the fuse block…1 positive, 1 negative. If you plan to keep the goal zero “portable” then you would have only this one pair and the pair to the charger (or cigarette lighter??) to disconnect/reconnect. There are handy Anderson connectors that can make this simple if not cigarette lighter. Speaking of which, tying the charge input to your CCP (caveat, this works great on my 2015, but some really new vans may have limitations or switching to the CCP I am unaware of) or direct to the battery might provide a better charge capability.
Someone beat me to it, but the fuse block pictured above is an example of the Blue Sea products. The 6 fuse block would be a little smaller. The “clear” cover is nice to protect, and adds a place to label.
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. But you can buy plug in ends to attach wires to the generator, as I did with the 10 gauge to my panel and the van's stock 12volt socket shown in the pic on Inpfor. My Bluetti has two input sockets, so I also run the 110v Bluetti charger off the stock 110 inverter that came with the Adventure Package or shore power by simply plugging them in.
