As you have had time to utilize your van with new roof rack, can you elaborate on the strength/durability (...i.e. do you think would it be strong enough, assuming you installed additional cross-members & platform, to support 2 people?) and comment on any road noise?
Back in a van or Overland van build
41 - 60 of 127 Posts
HA, i actually have not "utilized" van, i have 273km on it. since its winter here in quebec and its not my only vehicle, its in full build mode and hasnt left the shop in months. actually illegal for me to drive it technically since there is a "snow tire law" here, and its on stock tires still. tire shop is in my neighborhood though--so eventually ill get it over there for proper tires
so no comment on road noise since when i did drive it around it was empty cargo van. not my first modular rack though and see no issue with strength. i did pick up an addition cross member because it will help my plan
So almost 6 months to the day after i ordered my CR Laurence windows, i got the last of the 4. It has really been holding me up and i was getting pretty bitter about it. Anyway, last 2 windows i was waiting for were the 10x33 bunk window sliders. a lot of people like the 10x33 awning windows because they can be opened in the rain. all fine and dandy, but if you drive with a CRL awning window open you will soon regret it. So, i have awning windows in the big locations behind driver and side door for ventilation if its raining, and slider windows in the bunk for more ventilation while driving.
got busy and cut the holes and did my finish utilizing the factory bump outs for EAST/WEST bed set up with out buying Flares. wasnt really sure if my plan would work but quite pleased with the results and ended up at 75" wide (at the widest) tapered back to 73.5 in the back, which is pretty much standard RV bed size. and i was still able to insulate with thinsulate behind my panels and could maybe get it slightly wider
getting ready to cut the hole after a ton of careful measuring to make i finish according to my plan in my head, and finished the upholstery
![146860]()
![146861]()
window in and make a frame around it
![146862]()
make a panel and upholster, did a lot of card board trial fits first
![146863]()
then got busy making curtain for the window, which we make a lot of, and installing everything
![146864]()
![146865]()
![146866]()
![146867]()
and like i said, 75" side to side. now to finalize my bed plan--my head is full of to much stuff....
![146868]()
got busy and cut the holes and did my finish utilizing the factory bump outs for EAST/WEST bed set up with out buying Flares. wasnt really sure if my plan would work but quite pleased with the results and ended up at 75" wide (at the widest) tapered back to 73.5 in the back, which is pretty much standard RV bed size. and i was still able to insulate with thinsulate behind my panels and could maybe get it slightly wider
getting ready to cut the hole after a ton of careful measuring to make i finish according to my plan in my head, and finished the upholstery
window in and make a frame around it
make a panel and upholster, did a lot of card board trial fits first
then got busy making curtain for the window, which we make a lot of, and installing everything
and like i said, 75" side to side. now to finalize my bed plan--my head is full of to much stuff....
seems i dont have a good photo of it, or its an industry secret--
. basically i built a frame with threaded inserts that is then upholstered and riveted/screwed/marine adhesived to the inner metal structure. thinsulate inserted, panel installed. my next time lapse video is almost done and shows it actually
That's what I thought, but I was hoping you could provide details of what you did so others (I) could copy it? What is the internal frame made of and did you use rivets, sheet metal screws, or adhesive (and if adhesive, which product)? And if you could even be more generous with your expert knowledge, the specific bolt used to mate to the threaded inserts? I'm not sure why you would upholster a frame that is completely covered, though, but maybe you were referring to some other application?seems i dont have a good photo of it, or its an industry secret--
Again, it looks so good!
I get it, now! Threaded wood inserts. Thanks for that. Did you use 3M 5200 or something else for the wood strapping adhesive?
i used sika 291, equivalent to 4200, its what i had open. 5200 would also be fine, so would windshield adhesive--really anything that remains flexible. its more about making it more secure and not vibrate than it is "fixing it" there are brackets with screws and rivots in the internal metal structure as well. its glued in the corners and in a few spots along internal ribbing (not full length). definitely only want to use adhesive on internal structure and not to the exterior skin, it needs to shrink and contract with environmental changes and will ripple if glued to the skin (not to start a urethane debate here)
its 1/8" landau foam, its a closed cell foam specifically for vehicle applications. and yes, provides thermal break on top of cushioning and sound deadening
Thanks for the info! What type of glue do you use for the foam/fabric?
a high tack automotive upholstery contact cement, sometimes referred to as landau top adhesive
wiring wiring wiring......actually this one wasnt to bad since im taking the overland "everything you need and nothing you dont" approach (except for couple wife request as i said earlier). this one was a breeze compared to the last sprinter i did for the shop i used to work at.....geez....
Anyway, 30 amp shore power coming in along with an SAE connector for future solar suitcase needs if me or the next person wants it in addition to what on the roof. solar on the roof only works well if parked in the sun remember
![148140]()
then just pulling wires/circuits, rinse and repeat. seems ive spent half my life wiring things
![148141]()
and after the initial layout is done getting it all loomed up and into the cavities where it will play nicer with everything
![148142]()
![148143]()
and now i can finally move onto some finishes, i love it when things start to go back together. first up, the foam blobs as people call them. i reshaped it slightly and i filled in the irregularities, wrapped them in foam and tweed. held in with some high quality automotive velcro and tension fit
![148144]()
![148145]()
![148146]()
and finally start upholstering my panels and doing final install---at least a couple, still have some things to build--like bed structure
![148147]()
![148148]()
Anyway, 30 amp shore power coming in along with an SAE connector for future solar suitcase needs if me or the next person wants it in addition to what on the roof. solar on the roof only works well if parked in the sun remember
then just pulling wires/circuits, rinse and repeat. seems ive spent half my life wiring things
and after the initial layout is done getting it all loomed up and into the cavities where it will play nicer with everything
and now i can finally move onto some finishes, i love it when things start to go back together. first up, the foam blobs as people call them. i reshaped it slightly and i filled in the irregularities, wrapped them in foam and tweed. held in with some high quality automotive velcro and tension fit
and finally start upholstering my panels and doing final install---at least a couple, still have some things to build--like bed structure
im using 1/8" foam plus fabric (maybe 1/16"). so my gap between 2 panels is 1/4" so it give me a little "squeeze" to make a tight fit. no radius on the wood for panel to panel fits (but the foam creates its own radius). but on panels that are just an opening i put a small radius on to make em more smooth
I just found your thread, and wow! Nice trove of tips and techniques. Thanks for sharing.
41 - 60 of 127 Posts
