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I've been thinking about this tab failure. I'm not sure you even need to run it with the stock struts, VC coils and VC spacer. All the suspension components are in the stock configuration. In essence all you are doing is preload the suspension with the VC coil and VC spacer. You might see a little more up-travel but it's going to be minimal. So with the stock amount of travel you should be able to run the factory sway bars with the stock length links. By moving the links up (with the extensions) you are limiting their down travel. If you look at the passenger's side extension (one still attached) it's bent down and in. If it was experiencing compression from uptravel it would be bent up and out. I also found a YouTube of a 2" lift kit installation on a 2020 Ford Explorer and no sway bar extensions were used. The Transit and the Explorer share the same AWD system (transfer case and front diff) as well as the front strut and sway bar configuration. See the attached video.


If it were my van I would remove the other extension and run the sway bar in the stock configuration at least until VC has a replacement part. Honestly though I don't think you need them...thoughts?
 

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2020 148 Mid-Roof AWD Crew
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Finally got underneath to check my own. Not sure if my mechanic was lazy or wise but I do not have the bracket. It looks as if the sway bar could contact the frame mount(?) above it if it was too high, is there any sign of contact on the sway bar?
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How long have you been running this lift (miles)? Have you taken it off road or been in situations that would flex up the front end?
 

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2020 148 Mid-Roof AWD Crew
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Just put in. Will be heading out this weekend for a journey down some rougher roads, so far it's just bounced down the curb on my driveway.
 

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It is safe to have the sway bar link in the factory location. We extended the link upwards to prevent the end link from just kissing the lower control arm at full suspension extension.

We are aware of the issue with the tabs and have a new extension piece in the works that will be stronger. We are adding a bend flange to strengthen the tab so it can't flex around the stock tab and fail. The sway bar/link is not making contact with anything. We tested the full range of suspension motion when we decided to add the sway bar relocation tab to our kit. We will be rolling out a replacement tab ASAP. We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused.


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It is safe to have the sway bar link in the factory location. We extended the link upwards to prevent the end link from just kissing the lower control arm at full suspension extension.

We are aware of the issue with the tabs and have a new extension piece in the works that will be stronger. We are adding a bend flange to strengthen the tab so it can't flex around the stock tab and fail. The sway bar/link is not making contact with anything. We tested the full range of suspension motion when we decided to add the sway bar relocation tab to our kit. We will be rolling out a replacement tab ASAP. We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused.


View attachment 159545
For those of us with the old tab, how do we go about getting the replacement tabs? Send you an email?
 

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My first look at the photo I could not tell all I saw was broken metal. After looking again I can see that now it was the add on tab and not the strut. Sorry if my reply seems "paranoid: - 30 years of racing cars, motorcycles and airplanes - and seeing people injured or die from their mistakes in rigging and repair , I tend to err on the side of giving too much info rather than not enough. "

The fact that there was enough force generated to break that tells me its a concern. We'd see stuff like that on our race chassis and unless there was an impact damaging it - it always meant it was time for a redesign.
Exactly. The important concept is the sway bar "forward" facing "legs" part of basically a wide [ shape needs to be fairly flat when going down the road and in the middle of the "travel". As the suspension compresses and extends the ends will travel in an arc around the bars frame attachment bushings and pull back as they get to the top/bottom of their range, so you want them flat and kinda neutral just going down the road without any bind.
 

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This same thing happened to me, 2019 with with the Topo lift.

For me it was the driver's side and the sway bar rolled forward. It hit my ABS sensor harness and split it and then hit my brake line as it goes into the caliper. The brake line ruptured and dumped out a lot of fluid and killed the brakes.

Fortunately for me it broke free at the car wash a block from my house. Not on Stony Pass in Silverton where I was just a couple days before.

Vancompass let me know about the redesigned bracket and that it "should" be ready by the end of the month. I know it is hard to estimate deliveries with the current state of things, but I hope they can come through with something. In the meantime they advised me to mount the sway bar to the stock location. They also let me know it could rub or bump under certain conditions.
A little delayed but here are some pictures of what happened to me.

The sway bar link swung forward and took out my ABS harness and bent my brake line.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Vehicle

Kinked/ bent brake line dumped most of my fluid. The dash lit up and I had very little braking power. I was about a block from the house and was able to limp home on the side streets safely.
Light Automotive tire Tread Wheel Tire

Here's the link next to the broken adapter (driver's side)
Automotive tire Plumbing Vehicle brake Fender Gas

This is the adapter from the passenger side, you can see it was also ready to break.
Fixture Rectangle Gas Door Household hardware

I was lucky enough to get the van repaired pretty quick, all of the parts were in stock for the brakes. The sway bar link was pitted and bent so that was replaced too. The shop was able to remake the bracket with a lot thicker material. When Vancompass sends out the V2 adapter I will evaluate and see which I like better.
 
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