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Hello! I have a 2018 wagon, 10 passenger, short wheelbase and low roof, 3.5 EB, 3.31 LSD, with tow package. We have 6 kids and are going to buy a travel trailer and spend a month on the road visiting family in Georgia and Florida this coming January (and to escape the cold here in the north!). The weight of the travel trailer plus our kids/cargo will probably exceed the tow rating for this vehicle, perhaps considerably. Not enough to be dangerous. Tongue weight will be less than rating, at least.

Question is: are there any upgrades or mods I should make to have a better time towing constantly for weeks at or somewhat exceeding the rating—particularly with passengers in the fourth row? I saw about air bags or rubber things under the rear suspension, and will likely to that to help with the ride. Anything else? Any thoughts? Thanks!

Cameron
 

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On my ecoboost I removed the blocking plate that covers half of the intercooler. Then drill a tiny drip hole in the output side of the intercooler so that it doesn’t accumulate condensed oil/water and cause a misfire.
None of the ecoboost F150s come with the blocking plate but the misfire is common on gen 1 f150s in more humid places and drilling the hole is the solution. If you watch YouTube videos of how too on the F150 I think the output side is on opposite side of our van so check the direction of flow through the intercooler.
A more effective intercooler will reduce the EGT and hopefully reduce the chance of warping the exhaust manifolds, that’s why I did it.
 

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X2 on removing the intercooler block-out.

Use Premium fuel like the manual recommends. The fuel economy gains while towing will more than pay for it.

Better rear shocks will help quite a bit. Any good monotube. Bilstein, fox, KYB etc. The factory ones are under-damped for a heavy load.

I wouldn't worry too much about the tow rating. Stay under the rear axle rating, and the hitch ratings. The GCWR on the new vans is quite a bit higher (15,000 pounds with 3.73 gears) just by having new honeycomb grill.

If you see your coolant temps shooting up, manually drop down a gear or 2. This makes the same power with less boost, and also moves more coolant, so temps stay cooler.
 

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The Ecoboost tends to break Exhaust Manifold studs during heavy towing in hot weather, Expensive repairs where often the engine has to be removed to fix.
 

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So your plan is to exceed the GCWR? How will the tongue weight be lower than the rating but exceeding the GCWR?

FYI a transit with a heavy rear bias in weight makes for a very floaty front end, lane changing in wind vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone. I’ve never even heard of removing the intercooler lockout. I am hoping it won’t get too hot—even Orlando in January doesn’t usually get above 80.

Should I replace shocks as well or instead of an airbag or timbren system?

I’d actually considered buying a 2021 Transit if the towing was better, but the ratings are all LESS than mine. I realize that is a complex mix of factors, but is surprising to see.

Okay, as far as hitch weight, I was wrong. I thought hitch weight was 700, buts it’s 500. We will be close to that, but over. The other problem is weight in the wagon (5 kids, car seats, gear) that will push the whole thing over the GCWR.
 

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Then drill a tiny drip hole in the output side of the intercooler so that it doesn’t accumulate condensed oil/water and cause a misfire.
Wait, What, Why? the intercooler needs to maintain boost pressure.. drilling a hole into it will negate any performance gained from increasing your Air intake for more fuel demand! and your MAF sensor would be reading incorrect amounts of air.. so your AFR will be way off (run rich as ****, more carbon build up, more fuel usage etc.. ) DO NOT DRILL INTO YOUR INTERCOOLER!!! run a catch can or AOS if you are worried about a little oil and condensation making it into your intercooler.. BTW water is not bad.. I run Methanol Injection on my Subaru and its 50% water!! makes me 150 more HP due to lower temps and being able to tune for 116 octane instead of 91 added bonus is that it cleans my valves as its DI!

So what I have done is this.. BBK Throttle body, afe Quantum cold air intake, new spark plugs properly gapped, aFe Catback exhaust, Falcon Adjustable rear shocks, Bilstein front struts, better tires, yes remove extra plastic covering your intercooler.. I also added a Transmission cooler kit from PBH (meant for a mustang Cayote, but fits our 6 speed just fine). I added a 3.73 gearset (Shot peened, Cryo and Rem treated) G2 larger rear diff cover. Eaton LSD (Cryo treated).
 

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My T250 EB, 148" Med Roof, loaded up with off-road recovery and camping gear for two, pulls my race bike box trailer or a 1700lb U-haul car trailer with my 3600lb track toy, hundreds of miles over mountain passes with zero issues. Use the highest RON fuel you can get, engage tow/haul and just take it easy.

In them olden days, model T Fords hauled and towed all kinds of stuff over the Sierras, with 20HP and crappy cooling systems. Taking it easy and managing heat was the key back then and its still important.
 
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Hello! I have a 2018 wagon, 10 passenger, short wheelbase and low roof, 3.5 EB, 3.31 LSD, with tow package. We have 6 kids and are going to buy a travel trailer and spend a month on the road visiting family in Georgia and Florida this coming January (and to escape the cold here in the north!). The weight of the travel trailer plus our kids/cargo will probably exceed the tow rating for this vehicle, perhaps considerably. Not enough to be dangerous. Tongue weight will be less than rating, at least.

Question is: are there any upgrades or mods I should make to have a better time towing constantly for weeks at or somewhat exceeding the rating—particularly with passengers in the fourth row? I saw about air bags or rubber things under the rear suspension, and will likely to that to help with the ride. Anything else? Any thoughts? Thanks!

Cameron
Use the lock out on 5th-6the gears during certain pulls when constant shifting 0ccur s.
 

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Wait, What, Why? the intercooler needs to maintain boost pressure.. drilling a hole into it will negate any performance gained from increasing your Air intake for more fuel demand! and your MAF sensor would be reading incorrect amounts of air.. so your AFR will be way off (run rich as ****, more carbon build up, more fuel usage etc.. ) DO NOT DRILL INTO YOUR INTERCOOLER!!!
lol a weep hole is pretty common on an aftermarket intercooler
 

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lol a weep hole is pretty common on an aftermarket intercooler
OK just looked up the tuning strategy on the eb35.. and its speed density, so you will loose air pressure and make your turbos work harder, but AFR will be dealt with.. still making a boost leak on purpose is a bad thing in my book!! I'm running a catch can and plan on welding my own Air to Water intercooler down the road as this Transit intercooler really sucks.. My 2 lt Subaru has double the Intercooler on just one turbo!! makes no sense to neuter this van so much! don't even get me started on the tiny radiator!
 

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lol a weep hole is pretty common on an aftermarket intercooler
Yes- do yourself( and more importantly your family) a huge favor and don't tow a large TT above the specs. Have you towed one before? We tow a 21 Escape that fully loaded is 4300 lbs. A buddy thought he could tow a 26' Evo with his Porsche Cayenne just because of the HP it has. He found out quick there is a Lot more to towing safely and gave that up after one trip.
 
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