Aluminess custom roof rack, etc.
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I opted for the wide slats. Aluminess also has a closer-together slat option as well as a fully closed "deck" option. I believe they can also prep it up to drop in solar panels nicely.
The electrical tape is just holding down unfinished light cables.
The foam on the surf hooks is conduit insulation that I added.
The electrical tape is just holding down unfinished light cables.
The foam on the surf hooks is conduit insulation that I added.
The ladder cannot go behind the rear wheel. They looked into this for me and determined the only mounting point would have blocked the rear door magnet.
I don't remember if they can mount the ladder on the rear door but I vaguely recall that not being an option.
I don't remember if they can mount the ladder on the rear door but I vaguely recall that not being an option.
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That looks nice- but here is a word of caution- in my state you would be ticketed for the ladder and rack on the driver side. It has to be on the passenger side and extend no more than 6".
Don't know how much you travel or what other state's laws are- just saying.
From SC Code of Laws-
SECTION 56-5-4050. Side projecting loads on passenger vehicles.
No passenger vehicle shall be operated on any highway with any load carried thereon extending beyond the line of the fenders on the left side of such vehicle nor extending more than six inches beyond the line of the fenders on the right side of such vehicle.
Don't know how much you travel or what other state's laws are- just saying.
From SC Code of Laws-
SECTION 56-5-4050. Side projecting loads on passenger vehicles.
No passenger vehicle shall be operated on any highway with any load carried thereon extending beyond the line of the fenders on the left side of such vehicle nor extending more than six inches beyond the line of the fenders on the right side of such vehicle.
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Lotta good stuff there! But, I wonder if you won't be kicking your paint job when you use that ladder...?
Add fender extensions.
Haven't had a problem yet in the three months I've had it. But then, I usually climb the ladder in flip-flops or barefooted. It's got a good amount of clearance from the side of the van.
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Just ordered mine yesterday. San Diego based. Easy pick up. Stoked!
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Budsky said:
Hah! Might work...I've often wondered about that law any way since I see vans with those large plate glass carrying racks on both sides. But then they aren't "passenger" vehicles....
Not to mention we have some very poorly written laws that make little sense
Morey, I put the whole tab onto the sale of the van when I purchased it, so my dealer was a able to give a tiny (maybe 10%) discount, but it was around 2 grand for the rack (big extra charge for that drop down in front), 400 for the ladder, around 100 each for the boat rollers, surfboard hooks, and extra pole.
I provided my business license to the dealer and was able to use Ford's upfitter rebate for $1000, which is how I was able to win my wife's approval. That would have otherwise been lost money.
I provided my business license to the dealer and was able to use Ford's upfitter rebate for $1000, which is how I was able to win my wife's approval. That would have otherwise been lost money.
http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/198369-post12.htmlHah! Might work...I've often wondered about that law any way since I see vans with those large plate glass carrying racks on both sides. But then they aren't "passenger" vehicles....
Not to mention we have some very poorly written laws that make little sense
Fender extender?
Great pictures! We would love to post a few on our Facebook page and Pinterest boards if that is OK with you...if so, would you be able to send pics to Aluminess via email [email protected]? Thanks!
No problem.
Funny - I was just about to email you, but I'll ask here so others may benefit:
I need to drill into the rack to run wires through and to hide splices from the weather. Do you have a recommended method of drilling or of sealing? I'm thinking I should drill a 3/8" hole on the underside of a rack bar near each of my lights to minimize water sitting on the seal. I will seal with a non-silicone waterproof sealant around the wires? Basically, I'd like to have the option of pulling the wires back out in the future for light replacement if need be. Thoughts?
Funny - I was just about to email you, but I'll ask here so others may benefit:
I need to drill into the rack to run wires through and to hide splices from the weather. Do you have a recommended method of drilling or of sealing? I'm thinking I should drill a 3/8" hole on the underside of a rack bar near each of my lights to minimize water sitting on the seal. I will seal with a non-silicone waterproof sealant around the wires? Basically, I'd like to have the option of pulling the wires back out in the future for light replacement if need be. Thoughts?
The lower loop of the roof rack is hollow all the way around so you should be able to pull wires along the entire perimeter. If you are drilling any holes where water could get in, then it is a good idea to also put in some drain holes so that water can't get inside, freeze, and then blow out the pipe. We have some customers that will use a grommet to run the wires into the pipe, and others that just drill a hole, debur and then run the wires.
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Have any pictures with your gear loaded on the rack?
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@Aluminess do you have any plans to make a more body fitting bumper, something a little less "loud" or bulky?
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Howmanyds - thanks for taking the time to take pics and load them. Very nice! I put mine on order earlier this week. Baja rack with just a 2" spacer between the tubes. Same slats as yours. I was going to go with the tighter slats but decided to save the weight "up top". Got boat rollers as well. Looks like the mounting in the transit spots went pretty easy. I was wondering about that. You spent some hefty change on those lights. I bet they work great as well as looking great. Any words of wisdom for mounting the rack and ladder? My van will show up in May after a Quigley 4X4 conversion and then all the Aluminess stuff goes on.
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