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I came across a pretty cool tool over at the FORScan forum that has some features to diff as built (.ab) files bit-by-bit. They specifically support putting in a bunch of .ab files from different VINS and using this to generate a report about bits that differ. Ideally if we could find very similar models with and without cruise we might be able to narrow in on some of these settings. Has anyone (in the context of adding cruise control or otherwise) attempted this or heard about it being attempted for different Transit VINs?

http://www.compulsivecode.com/Project_A ... mpare.aspx

My options on my 2018 High roof 148 are below. Ideally if someone had a very similar option list + cruise it's be awesome if they could share their VINs, privately or publicly for me to test against.


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Thanks for the update @lmleblanc. Missing wires is a disappointment - though if the wheel also had the radio controls I wonder if they could be for that. I installed an aftermarket stereo and believe I discovered the wires for steering wheel controls were not present on my harness. But the fact that the aftermarket Rosta unit can be made to function with existing wiring (and my assumption that basically everything needed for cruise would be digital and on the CAN bus) make me hopeful that even if a wire is missing it's something simple like power for a cruise module that lives in the wheel (just a total guess).
 

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i was able to get the as-built file for a o e m transit but the transit that I want to program doesn't have the line available to program so the euro platform is so different that the I p c will need replaced and possibly the b c m . the transit connect has the correct stile cluster that it is much e-z'er to add cruise. I went as far as to try and join a eruo transit site but they wont let me join , that is where I read a post about replacing the b c m to get the cruise working.
@fleet man could you elaborate a bit on this? I think I didn't read this post carefully enough and I am starting to maybe just repeat steps you've already taken.

  • What do you mean an OEM transit? Aren't they all? Are you saying you downloaded the .ab file for a particular VIN with cruise control?
  • What Euro transit site was this? Do you have a link or is there any useful info posted there? I am curious about this replace BCM part. Is it a different Ford part number? Or needs to be bought used from a vehicle with cruise because it's not reprogrammable?
Would be great if you could share what you did learn, if there were specific memory addresses that looked suspicious even if FORScan does not have the ability to program those addresses.
 

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if you check the part number they are the same for a transit with cruise and with out.. call the dealer and check for your self
Just following up on instrument cluster and part number. This might be true in some cases I stumbled across some other threads here on this site talking about a "level 2" instrument cluster. I can't find a reference to what this means exactly but it seems like at the very least a level 2 instrument cluster has the message center, which might be responsible for cruise control, at least for display. Maybe if you already have the message center but no cruise it's the same part number but I am getting the feeling my base level cluster (which can't even display fuel economy or temperature) likely doesn't have the brains or display to show the cruise speed. Or at least I am wondering why so many different instrument cluster part numbers exist.

I don't have a good handle on how to look up part numbers but came across at least this many different part numbers for late model Transits. Some used car part sites that seem more knowledgable call some of them "level 2" hard to know exactly what that means.

HK4T-10849-FB
HK4T-10849-T
HK4Z-10849-AH
HK4Z-10849-Z
 

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Removed the airbag this morning and uncovered the 16-pin connector to the clock spring. My base level wheel had only 2 wires: horn and ground. The new wheel I bought has 10 wires. The additional 8 are a mix of cruise, display and audio remote.

Oddly, my clock spring has 6 pins populated (out of the 16 possible). One is marked as not used on Ford's diagram (pin 6) so that's weird and means there is a theoretical upper limit of 5 signal wires going into the clock spring (there is a 2nd wheel-size connector to the clock spring but I believe it's exclusive to the airbag - 2 out of 5 pins populated and goes to my airbag only). The signals that seem to be passed through my original clock spring are (in addition to horn and ground) illumination and audio remote + and -. None of the cruise wires are passed through my clock spring.

And my new purchased wheel is missing pin 2 (Display signal) which should be populated according to the diagram; I'm hoping that isn't a big problem. And of course I have no idea what is passing out the other end of the clock spring until I remove it. But based on pins alone the clock spring would definitely need to be replaced. It would appear everything on the wheel side of the clock spring is analog which I suppose makes sense as I'm guessing impedance through a clock spring might be pretty funky. My wiring diagram also shows something called the SASM (Steering Angle Sensor Module). Given the only connections to that module are cruise control, I'm doubtful my vehicle has that so I'd need to add SASM to my shopping list. I can't find my T25 socket so until I get that I can't pull the rest of the steering column apart to check, but will report back when I do. The diagram would imply that it's the SASM that puts any cruise-related CAN Bus messages onto the bus as well as manages the information center inputs, so seems like a bit of a misnomer, though I am guessing it does measure the steering angle also :). Maybe this is somehow related to cruise control like if the vehicle is turning heavily it will disengage.

In the meantime I also checked the 12-pin connector the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster). According to the factory wiring diagram pin 11-12 are unused, and I believe my vehicle harness has all the wires except multimedia can bus. Since I just have the base level radio, I am guessing I do not have that CAN bus at all. This makes sense as FORScan does not show that I have a FCDIM, APIM, ACM or other modules on that bus that I notice are in more optioned out cars.

The last thing I found in the factory wiring diagram was a whole system called "cruise control". It has two components: brake position switch and a stop light switch. The brake position switch is definitely present in my car with all 4 wires populated and the stop light switch is shown as being within the BCM. I see why it's related to cruise control but it seems like an odd name for the system.

I'll put out the call again that if anyone has a VIN of a 2018 van with cruise but very few other options I'd love to diff the as-built files.

Will report back when I can see what's going on with the SASM.
 

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I came across a pretty cool tool over at the FORScan forum that has some features to diff as built (.ab) files bit-by-bit. They specifically support putting in a bunch of .ab files from different VINS and using this to generate a report about bits that differ. Ideally if we could find very similar models with and without cruise we might be able to narrow in on some of these settings. Has anyone (in the context of adding cruise control or otherwise) attempted this or heard about it being attempted for different Transit VINs?

http://www.compulsivecode.com/Project_A ... mpare.aspx
Were you able to get the software to work? I used that software years ago but more recently it hasnt worked and communicating with the developer confirmed that this was because the websites that the data was pulled from the format what probably changed no longer resulted in useful data with the scripts that the developer made back in the day and he/she was not interested in updating.

Most of the changes that need to be done can be changed in the "Module Configuration" tab of FORScan and then the changes have labels and are easy.
The software that you listed searches for differences in the "AS BUILT format" tab of FORScan, the f150 guys have found a lot of changes that can be made with changing these hexidecimal codes but I dont think anyone has found anything that these change with the transits yet.

If you want to compare the AS-BUILT part I have done it by hand in the past. You start by getting a vin, I usually find them on ebay and such then you can find the window sticker for the options listing and download the AS-BUILT file from https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt then go to a section such as 720-xx-xx, this is the hexadecimal section for the instrument cluster, import these hexadecimal numbers into excel or whatever you prefer then compare and try to find differences in the bits
 

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Yes, it works. It's a little buggy but I'm not trying to do anything quite as complex as a statistical analysis of hundreds of VINS to try to deduce various feature sets, but it did make diffing the as built files much easier to do and prevented me from having to write a quick script to do the same. Funny @dinocarsfast I think we think along the same lines. I basically did exactly what your last paragraph suggests. I found a 2018 van on Ebay, relatively stripped down except it does have cruise control. It's low roof, naturally aspirated but almost identical otherwise.

From my as built vs the ebay one, there are only 5 BSM (726) addresses that differ. sorry for the sloppiness - they're all -01 but I only wrote down one data word since it was all that differed, i think it was the second data word most of the time but I need to go back and double check. Did you already go down this path and find altering these values were of no use? And if so you had the clockspring and SASM wiring in place also? I feel like I am just going through many of the same steps you did but realizing it only after the fact.

Address3.5 no cruise (my van) 3.7 low roof with cruise on ebay
2014B0175
1502610061
2200B002B0
27187C187F
30F683F6C3

Testing 5 different memory locations is a short enough list to try exhaustively, but I'm a little scared to brick my car by changing one of these settings but wonder if it's possible to put the BSM settings back to exactly as they were if the car should behave normally. In any case I'll try to see if some of them are known settings that aren't related to cruise control to narrow down the list before attempting to change anything.

I ordered a cheap instrument cluster on ebay that at least has the message center but not 100% sure about cruise but at least it gives me something I'm not afraid to break and may hack at it a bit directly with a CAN adapter to try to understand how it works. Pro tip, I realized IPCs that at least have the message center don't have an odometer reset button in between the coolant and gas gauges, since this can be done via the message center / information select.

That and I need to track down a clock spring and SASM, at least operating under the assumption the latter doesn't have the cruise inputs.
 

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I did something similar to this for the trailer module but in the end I found that changing the values in the "Module Configuration" was enough and "ÄS-BUILT format" was not needed, but I also have not had enough time to completely bug test the system.
 

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That makes sense. My understanding is that I think there are a few module options related to towing but not cruise control, and my further understanding was that in modifying a module configuration value it was really just changing the values in the as built format, but with a nice interface to control what you're changing.
 

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I think that the "module configuration" and "AS-BUILT" are saved in two different places and are two different things, if you look at the AS-Built file that you can download from the motorcraft website the module configuration data correlates to the long couple hundred digit hexadecimal number at the end of the file.
The "AS-BUILT" tab in FORScan correlates to all the 16 or 32 bit addressed memory positions, you can also find them in the as-built file downloaded from the motorcraft website
 

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Some progress today. I got my torx socket and took the SASM / clockspring assembly out. The back (front/vehicle) side of the clock spring has 2 connectors, the Ford wiring diagram calls them C214 (14 pins) and C218A (8 pins). Doubly confirming what I already knew C214 was missing 7 pins (6 -11, 13) which are related to the info center, the LIN bus that the cruise control uses to communicate with the BSM, fuse 29 (not sure which box, might be pasenger box which is labeled "Rear parking aid camera. Lane keeping system. Interior rear view mirror. " (10A) in my manual. Will check later to see if I have that fuse populated in my fuse box.

The good news is the vehicle wiring harness appears complete and has all 13 out of 14 wires on C214 and all 6 out of 8 populated wires on C218A. Of course the wires might terminate or be routed differently but so far I'm hopeful I've isolated the hardware that needs to be swapped at least within the steering column.

As for the instrument cluster (IPC), as I mentioned earlier it likely needs to be swapped and I ordered a replacement that I know at least has the info center, but I'm not 100% sure it has cruise control. NB: I used Fordpartsgiant's web site to look up part numbers. In general there seem to be three levels of instrument clusters. These are all the MPH models, there are an equivalent set of KPH models with separate part numbers (sorry Canadians for not making a chart of those). And of course my instrument cluster (HK4T-10849-BB) as well as every other one I've seen on Ebay all have different part numbers than this list and general from each other. Other than the lack of an odometer reset button (reset button is on low series I think) I don't think there's any way to tell them apart. I have not found parts numbers useful and have just been trying to find a cluster from a vehicle known to have cruise control.

I have seen some other threads implying Level 2 is required for either the tow/brake controller and also the lane departure warning system. I don't at the moment believe it is needed for for cruise control.

2018 MY: 08/2016-09/20172018 MY: 09/2017-
Low Series
HK4Z-10849-K
HK4Z-10849-T
With Conventional InstrumentationHK4Z-10849-BHK4Z-10849-V
Conventional Instruments - Level 2HK4Z-10849-EHK4Z-10849-Z

Current state of things: :)
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Note I learned that the above IPC part numbers are all for the 3.5 engine. The 3.7 has different part numbers

3.5 L Ecoboost3.5 L Ecoboost3.7 NA3.7 NA
2018 MY: 08/2016-09/20172018 MY: 09/2017-2018 MY: 08/2016-09/20172018 MY: 09/2017-
Low SeriesHK4Z-10849-KHK4Z-10849-THK4Z-10849-HHK4Z-10849-AD
With Conventional InstrumentationHK4Z-10849-BHK4Z-10849-VHK4Z-10849-PHK4Z-10849-AF
Conventional Instruments - Level 2HK4Z-10849-EHK4Z-10849-ZHK4Z-10849-RHK4Z-10849-AH
 

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Interesting. I think I looked up 2015 and 2016 models because I kept seeing the parts on ebay. At least for those years 3.5 and 3.7 had the same part number. Who knows... this is my chart. Still many many missing part numbers though.

20152015-20163.5 L Ecoboost3.5 L Ecoboost3.7 NA3.5 L Ecoboost
04/2014-12/201412/2014-08/20162018 MY: 08/2016-09/20172018 MY: 09/2017-2018 MY: 08/2016-09/20172018 MY: 09/2017-
Low SeriesCK4Z-10849-BCK4Z-10849-MHK4Z-10849-KHK4Z-10849-THK4Z-10849-HHK4Z-10849-AD
With Conventional InstrumentationCK4Z-10849-DCK4Z-10849-PHK4Z-10849-BHK4Z-10849-VHK4Z-10849-PHK4Z-10849-AF
Conventional Instruments - Level 2CK4Z-10849-HCK4Z-10849-RHK4Z-10849-EHK4Z-10849-ZHK4Z-10849-RHK4Z-10849-AH
 

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Big update: I got cruise control working today. In the end I don't think it ended up being terribly complicated. With the right parts and tools it should probably only take you an hour or two. I ended up keeping my stock "low series" IPC, which means there is actually no display related to cruise which means you have to keep track in your head if it's on or off and you don't get a visual indication of what the speed is set to track to when on. But it works as expected, tapping the brake disengages it; set, resume, on, off all work. I might address this in the future, but I am relieved to know that at least to get the basic cruise functionality you don't need to replace the instrument cluster which involves likely a lot of shenanigans to get the mileage set properly.

Parts Required:
Steering wheel with cruise buttons
Clock spring assembly from vehicle with cruise control (whole assembly is important as it should include what Ford calls the SASM). What I bought looks like this:

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Tools:
Flat screwdriver with relatively short handle (6")
Mirror or smart phone with front camera (to use as mirror)
Torx 25 bit/socket (with at least 6" extension)
Wire snips (to cut zip tie)
extra zip tie
15/16th inch socket with at least 6" extension

PC + FORScan + extended license
OBDII connector compatible with forscan

Procedure:
  • Turn wheel 90 degrees from center to expose pins for removing airbag
  • Use screw driver and mirror/iphone to bend pin on back of steering wheel to release airbag
  • disconnect horn (not sure if polarity matters but make a note)
  • disconnect airbag plug by prying up little orange tabs first then pulling plug directly off and then place airbag aside
  • Disconnect 16 pin C218B connector from steering wheel to clock spring
  • Use 15/16th socket with extension to remove steering column bolt. Note wheel orientation as you need to put it back the same way
  • Lift off wheel and set aside
  • Locate two T25 bolts on bottom of steering column and remove (you may need a 6" extension for the lower one)
  • Using the flat screwdriver, carefully remove lower steering column shroud. I found it easier to release the tabs on the front and then work down the sides, bending it to clear the key tumbler.
  • Now the clock spring is exposed. Disconnect the yellow C218A and C214 plugs.
  • Note the location of and cut the zip tie holding this harness to the side of the steering column. Make sure to note the location of the zip tie so that you replace it exactly as to not interfere with the telescoping steering column
  • Locate two T25 bolts on the front of the steering column (silver) and remove both
  • Next peel/hold back the top side of the steering column shroud and locate 2 black T25 bolts on the top of the steering column and remove these also.
  • At this point the clock spring assembly should be able to be slid off the steering column.
At this point, assembly is the reverse of the disassembly but use your new clock spring and new steering wheel.

If you haven't used FORScan before for changing configuration make sure to read up on it a bit, and make a backup. Locate the service procedure for BdyCM Central Configuration Main. Locate Cruise Control. My vehicle was set to 01 / Without cruise control. Change to 02 / With Cruise control, write your changes and that's it, you should be done.

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Interestingly I don't think Ford ever sold cruise without the trip computer since the low series dash doesn't have any cruise related signaling, but if you suspect or know differently I'd like to hear about it. There are so many different IPC part numbers, I never figured out what all of them were.

Since I did not add the trip computer, this also means none of the other left and right buttons on the steering wheel do anything. The left buttons (info/message center) incidentally can be seen in FORScan and they are registering on the MS CAN bus, but since I don't have a message center IPC they're pointless. The right buttons are not connected at all, I think the reason is they are wired to the media / SYNC HS CAN which my vehicle harness does not have. It might be interesting to see if I could get these to talk to my aftermarket stereo... I think there have been some threads on this on this forum. I'm pretty sure the signals are being passed through the clock spring at least.

If you are going the route of upgrading the IPC, you might consider upgrading all the way to the "Level 2" IPC, and in which case you'd want a clock spring assembly that also includes lane departure. I think there is also a haptic feedback device in the steering wheel so it might make sense to source all those parts from the same vehicle. You'd also need the front camera and the wiring through the headliner. My vehicle does not have any connectors or wiring in the headliner so presumably you'd need that wiring harness as well.

Big thanks to @dinocarsfast who helped me out a lot with ideas and debugging and was a huge help as well as other folks on this forum.

Hopefully this post will give some other folks the confidence to do this upgrade, if so post up and let us know how it went.
 

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One other thing I wish I had known, the SASM does keep track of the turns of the clock spring. In my case either the previous owner had I had wound it a few turns one direction. The result was I had an error code that wouldn't clear from the SASM: steering angle sensor module signal above allowable range. This was also then throwing errors in the ABS module and the hill assist (I don't think I have this feature?) and traction control and maybe ABS lights were all on on the dash. I also have the generic "control module vehicle options reconfiguration error" which I think might be unrelated so ignore that one.

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You can read more about how to clear it, but the lesson learned is make sure the clock spring keeps the exact orientation that it had been in previously. Since you're likely buying this part used or of unknown provenance this might involve a little trial and error. If it's in the fault state it should either be "left" or "right" so you should have some clue which direction it's going to need to be turned to fix it.


The "degrees" unit can be a little confusing. As best I can tell approx 12,000 "degrees" equals one full 360 degree turn of the wheel.

Fault state:
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After turning clock spring 720 degrees to the right (clockwise). My wheel is turned 90 degrees (3211 "degrees") to get the airbag off/on.
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Thanks again @hayduke! I gave up on this a while back, but can finally get rid of my Rostra cruise.

I bought and installed the parts hayduke mentioned and can also confirm a success. I was hoping the audio buttons would work also, but nothing there. I have the basic instrument cluster with no bluetooth. A few notes for anyone doing the same:

Like Hayduke said. Make sure you get the whole assembly. The blinker/wiper sticks aren't important, but you need the plastic shroud under the slip ring. Under the ring is a circuit board that has additional pins if the vehicle has cruise control.

Non cruise control circuit board. Note lack of pins:
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Cruise control circuit board:
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Also as Hayduke mentioned, note the rotation of the slip ring. I use OBD fusion and recorded the rotation of my steering wheel before I removed it. Once I had the new slip ring plugged in, I turned the key on and rotated the slip ring until it matched my original. This could also be done with Forscan, but I found it a little easier to do with my phone.

136116
 

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Awesome work! Ha, nice to actually disassemble the clock spring assembly... you're braver than me. In a way it's amazing there's enough cost savings to merit making a different part but maybe mechanical clock springs are more expensive with more connections.

I bet the audio buttons could be made to work, at least if you have a stereo with a steering control remote in of some sort. If memory serves the wiring for those does pass through the clock spring but goes to the multimedia can bus (I think). I could re-check the wiring diagrams to be sure. Good reminder to myself to look into that.
 

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Thanks hayduke and all the others for all the time put into this conundrum. I’ve been undertaking the same thing when I came across this discussion. I am finding that there are slim pickings for a clock spring from a full-size transit where the seller knows for sure if it came from a van with cruise control. Lots of clock springs available for a transit connect. They look identical in the pictures and I’m pretty sure that they use the same steering wheels. Was just wondering if anyone here knows whether or not a clock spring from a transit connect would work on the full-size vans?
 
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