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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to add a newer thread on this topic, as I"m sure many passenger van owners would like to add a few cargo tie-downs. We all wish Ford had left some of the nice D-rings from the cargo van in the passenger version. I have a beautiful "new" 2016 350 XLT 12-passenger wagon, used mostly for hauling kids to hikes and bike rides. A coworker has 15-passenger (2015) with most of the seats removed for BMX bikes. So I can get a good look at the various weld nuts for seats, seat belts and D-rings. Here's what can be done with the 12-passenger without much trouble. First I ordered a set of 6 OEM D-rings from eBay.

1. There are two D-ring weld nuts over rear wheel well humps. In my van these are threaded OEM for D-rings, 7/16-20 fine thread. Simply pull out the plastic plugs and hex ratchet the D-rings into the threaded holes. That gives you two easy tie-down rings in a good spot.

2. The 15-passenger van has threaded weld nuts low on the D rear pillars (around 6 inches up from floor) for mounting the seat belt receptacles/tensioners for back row single seats. These are threaded M12x1.75 coarse thread and accommodate 2 1/2 inch long Torx T-55 bolts. The thread size is the same as the Torx bolts used to mount all the single seats. On my 12-passenger, these holes are a good spot for a couple D-rings and would allow criss-cross cargo straps to hold down my light-duty cargo. The weld-nut ports are welded in place behind the sheet metal pillar, but they are not threaded on the 12-passenger. The interior diameter of the weld nut port is too big to tap for the 7/16-20 D-ring bolts anyway. And M12 bolts would not fit thorugh the D-ring mounting collar. For these holes, my plan is to replace the 2-inch OEM D-ring bolt with a 2 1/2 inch 7/16-20 bolt (10.9 grad or higher) and use a washer and lock-nut bend the weld nut port. With the plastic pillar covers removed, there is room to reach behind with a wrench or socket driver and tighten the D-rings in place. I will have to cut hole in each plastic pillar cover to reinstall over the D-ring. I will add pictures in a few days if/when this works. (Note: The 12-passenger does have threaded weld nuts especially for OEM D-rings very low near the floor on the aft pillars pointing toward the front of the van threaded weld nuts especially for OEM D-ring, but they are blocked by the higher floor and on the right side by structural pieces of the pillar cover. On the left A/C side of the van, the A/C mount and cover totally block the left D-ring weld nut...no use even trying.)

3. The 15-passenger van also has threaded weld nuts high on the D rear pillars for mounting the seat belt shoulder strap holders for the single seats. These are threaded M10x1.5 coarse. On my 12-passenger, these holes are threaded (no idea why uppers are threaded and lowers not, Ford), but the 7/16 D-ring bolts will not fit in the 10mm holes. I have ordered high grade 2-inch M10x1.5 bolts. D-rings this high on the aft pillars might not be super useful for cargo tie-down, but they may come in handy for something. I should be able to drill 1/2-inch holes in the plastic pillar covers just like in the 15-passenger van.
 

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6-23-22 2023 XLT T-350HD Wagon EB AWD Avalanche Grey with all safety and tech options except PSD.
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Sounds awesome! Seems like a great idea for those that want to use their passenger vans for the purpose they were built for while also being able to use them as camper vans without the permanent conversion setup.
 

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I want to add a newer thread on this topic, as I"m sure many passenger van owners would like to add a few cargo tie-downs. We all wish Ford had left some of the nice D-rings from the cargo van in the passenger version. I have a beautiful "new" 2016 350 XLT 12-passenger wagon, used mostly for hauling kids to hikes and bike rides. A coworker has 15-passenger (2015) with most of the seats removed for BMX bikes. So I can get a good look at the various weld nuts for seats, seat belts and D-rings. Here's what can be done with the 12-passenger without much trouble. First I ordered a set of 6 OEM D-rings from eBay.

1. There are two D-ring weld nuts over rear wheel well humps. In my van these are threaded OEM for D-rings, 7/16-20 fine thread. Simply pull out the plastic plugs and hex ratchet the D-rings into the threaded holes. That gives you two easy tie-down rings in a good spot.


2. The 15-passenger van has threaded weld nuts low on the C and D rear pillars (around 6 inches up from floor) for mounting the seat belt receptacles/tensioners for back row single seats. These are threaded M12x1.75 coarse thread and accommodate 2 1/2 inch long Torx T-55 bolts. The thread size is the same as the Torx bolts used to mount all the single seats. On my 12-passenger, these holes are a good spot for a couple D-rings and would allow criss-cross cargo straps to hold down my light-duty cargo. The weld-nut ports are welded in place behind the sheet metal pillar, but they are not threaded on the 12-passenger. The interior diameter of the weld nut port is too big to tap for the 7/16-20 D-ring bolts anyway. And M12 bolts would not fit thorugh the D-ring mounting collar. For these holes, my plan is to replace the 2-inch OEM D-ring bolt with a 2 1/2 inch 7/16-20 bolt (10.9 grad or higher) and use a washer and lock-nut bend the weld nut port. With the plastic pillar covers removed, there is room to reach behind with a wrench or socket driver and tighten the D-rings in place. I will have to cut hole in each plastic pillar cover to reinstall over the D-ring. I will add pictures in a few days if/when this works. (Note: The 12-passenger does have threaded weld nuts especially for OEM D-rings very low near the floor on the aft pillars pointing toward the front of the van threaded weld nuts especially for OEM D-ring, but they are blocked by the higher floor and on the right side by structural pieces of the pillar cover. On the left A/C side of the van, the A/C mount and cover totally block the left D-ring weld nut...no use even trying.)

3. The 15-passenger van also has threaded weld nuts high on the C and D rear pillars for mounting the seat belt shoulder strap holders for the single seats. These are threaded M10x1.5 coarse. On my 12-passenger, these holes are threaded (no idea why uppers are threaded and lowers not, Ford), but the 7/16 D-ring bolts will not fit in the 10mm holes. I have ordered high grade 2-inch M10x1.5 bolts. D-rings this high on the aft pillars might not be super useful for cargo tie-down, but they may come in handy for something. I should be able to drill 1/2-inch holes in the plastic pillar covers just like in the 15-passenger van.
Interesting. I have a 21MY cargo van. All the D-ring attachment points (B-pillar left and right, C-pillar left and right, D-pillar left and right, in front, over, behind wheel wells, left and right, and between the B and C pillars on left, were all 7/16"-20 size. I find it unlikely that the D-rings don't all have the same size.
 
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Thanks for writing this up. I have several D rings in both our 15 passenger wagons as you describe. For some of them, the bolts from the seatbelt hardware was used.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interesting. I have a 21MY cargo van. All the D-ring attachment points (B-pillar left and right, C-pillar left and right, D-pillar left and right, in front, over, behind wheel wells, left and right, and between the B and C pillars on left, were all 7/16"-20 size. I find it unlikely that the D-rings don't all have the same size.
Yes, the OEM D-ring bolts adn mounting points all have the same size: 7/16-20, as you say. All the points are accessible in the cargo version of the Transit. I am working with a 12-pax version, and lal D-ring mount points are covered by interior trim and/or blocked by the floor. I have installed OEM D-rings in the D-ring mount points over the rear wheel wells. Now I am I am trying to add D-rings to two different seat belt mount points (weld nuts) on the C and D pillars. The seat belt mounts are used in the 15-pax configuration, but they are unused and covered in the 12-pax. The lower seat belt mounts are threaded slightly larger than 7/16 at M12 coarse, and the upper mounts are threaded slightly smaller than 7/16 at M10. I have ordered substitute hardware that should fit the seat belt mount points and be strong enough for tying down "normal" family/camping cargo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for writing this up. I have several D rings in both our 15 passenger wagons as you describe. For some of them, the bolts from the seatbelt hardware was used.
View attachment 175747 View attachment 175748

View attachment 175746 View attachment 175751
Nice! That's exactly what I'm going for. Except I do not have the OEM seat belt bolts. I like your technique and workmanship covering the trim cover holes on the lower D pillar. Was your van purchased from Ford like that? Or did a previous owner customize?
 

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Nice! That's exactly what I'm going for. Except I do not have the OEM seat belt bolts. I like your technique and workmanship covering the trim cover holes on the lower D pillar. Was your van purchased from Ford like that? Or did a previous owner customize?
Thanks, I did the work. I cut some cardboard mock-ups for the space left by the lower seat belt covers and later used them as patterns for some ABS I bought cheap online.
The 12 passengers have a plug over the upper hole that is easy to pop out.

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
D-Ring project complete! I now have six D-rings where I want them in the cargo area of 12-pax van. The outcome is very similar to asdrew's Transit as you can see in his reply. Although it looks like he was able to use seat belt bolts to secure his D-Rings.

The reason for the D-Rings is crash safety. In the event of a rollover crash, I want heavy or dangerous cargo stay clear of passengers and airbag deployment. I don't usually haul heavy cargo with passengers, but who knows what could become dangerous in a crash. I like knowing I've done everything I can to keep my peeps safe. Plus it's nice not to have coolers, bags and gear sliding around.

Here's what I ordered/needed for the project.
  • Set of 6 Ford Transit OEM Cargo D-rings from eBay seller. $29.99 15-20 Ford Transit 150 250 350 Van OEM Black Cargo D-Hooks 3 Pair/Set of 6 | eBay.
  • Pkg (need 2 each) of M10-1.5 x 50mm Flanged Hex Washer Head Bolts, 10.9 Grade Alloy Steel (for upper D pillar seat/shoulder belt threaded weld nuts). $12.99 Amazon.
  • Pkg (need 2 each) of 7/16-20 x 2 1/2" Grade 8 Hex Cap Bolts (to use with matching nuts for D pillar lower seat belt retractor non-threaded mount hole). $10.45 Amazon.
  • Pkg (need 2 each) of 7/16-20 Grade 8 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts. $16.56 Amazon.
  • Pkg (need 4 each) 7/16 Grade 8 Flat Washers. $6.60 Amazon.
  • Non-maring Auto Trim Removal Tool Set (helpful to remove trim retainers). $9.95 Amazon.
  • Pkg of Trim Panel Retainers - (search for W713297-S300 ...good to have replacements on hand when removing/installing interior trim panels). $10.89 Amazon.
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Here's how I would do this project a second time.

1. Over the wheel wells is super easy. Pull out plastic trim plugs. Screw OEM 7/16-20 D-Rrings into threaded weld nuts.
2. Lower D pillars
-You must remove the rear step cover to be able to reach behind or remove the trim panels. Use a pick to remove the 5 plastic screw cover and 1/4" socket (or 7mm I think) to remove hex screws. Then pull the plastic step cover off.
-Pull right lower and upper trim covers away enough to reach behind. (I removed right covers, but it is possible to do this project without full removal. See **Notes below.).
-Estimate where hole will be drilled through trim for lower bolt. Use scratch awl to poke through trim and look behind to see if scratch awl is centered on seat belt mount hole. Once you have the center, prepare to drill 1/2" hole.
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-Place scrap wood behind trim panel to prevent drilling/scratching van body steel, then drill 1/2" hole through plastic trim panel.

-Hold D-ring in place against panel and trace outline with marker.
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-Keep scrap wood behind. Cut hole for D-Ring shape to enable removal/installation of trim panel. I used Dremel cutting bit and cleaned up with X-acto knife. It was easier to cut the shape on the left side with the panel installed than the right side, which I had fully removed on a work bench.
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-Finally, make your hands and wrists very small, reach behind the trim panel and into the body access hole and install the lower D pillar D-rings using your 7/16-20 2 1/2" bolts, washers and locknuts. I was not able to find 2 1/2" flange head, so I wanted a washer at each end of the bolt to match how the OEM bolt works in the D-ring mount.

I used an open-ended 16mm wrench behind the frame and 16mm socket in front. Note: I tethered the wrench with parachute chord, because I was afraid of dropping it into the van body. There are a couple wire connectors in the way of your hand and open wrench. You can remove one from it's frame mount by finding the clip on the plug and siding it up. This worked great on the right side, but on the left Ford had done me the disservice of wrapping the connector in electrical tape so I could not feel or operate the release clip. It was easy enough to pull the soft plug out of it's mounting hole in the body. Remember to put the plugs back into their mount holes so they don't rattle forever or pull back into the D pillar cavity.
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The upper panels are easily removed independent of the lower panels. Even so, this project can be done just pulling them back like the lower panels. Since my upper shoulder belt mounts are factory threaded for M10-1.5, I replaced the D-Ring bolts with the high grade M10 x 50mm bolts and went to work.
-Look for the faint outline of the shoulder belt mount hole cover on the upper trim pieces. It's just as faint on the inside as the outside, so there is not much advantage to removing the panels. Mark the center of the hole with a scratch awl hole.
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-Put a piece of scrap wood behind where you will drill your hole. The best hole would be 7/8" drilled with a hole saw bit (3/4" would be perfect, but 7/8" seems to be the smallest hole saw size). If you have a 1" hole saw bit on hand, that would be OK. The D-Ring spacer is 3/4". If you don't have any smaller hole saw bits, you could certainly use a standard 1/2" bit and ream it. The D-Ring assembly is designed to contact the steel body, so I did not want a smaller hole and any plastic in between.
-Once you have your holes in the trim panels, install your D-Rings with the M10 bolts.

**Notes: I completely removed the right side upper and lower D pillar trim panels. This was educational, but not necessary, and you are likely to break or lose a retainer clip or two. It was easier to install the 2 1/2" bot with the panel completely removed, but I managed to install the left side with the panel just pulled away. Not all hands would fit behind the D pillar. If your fingers are not dexterous and good at righty-tighty, it would be easy to drop the washer and/or locknut, and it would be gone forever. I was able to hold my breath and get both side locknuts finger tight, then the wrench work was no problem. The left side lower trim panel cannot be removed, because the HVAC unit cover bump-out and the floor are in the way. You would have to remove at least the rear two seats to bend the floor up enough to work the panel over and around the HVAC unit. I did not attempt this and fought through reaching behind the trim panel.
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TIL that Grade 8 washers are a thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TIL that Grade 8 washers are a thing.
Right? I used to work in aircraft maintenance, so I knew there were different grades of nuts a bolts, but I did not know they were numbered. And I never thought about washers. Here they are:

 
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