[V37]

The wires of some 85D Cargo LED Pkgs are outside the roof rib. Anyone put up a roof liner,...and if so,...how did you deal with the ceiling LED wires?

 

[orton]

The wires of some 85D Cargo LED Pkgs are outside the roof rib. Anyone put up a roof liner,...and if so,...how did you deal with the ceiling LED wires?

I will disconnect the LED lights from the Transit electrical system. Will relocate the 4 lights on the van centerline and power them from the house battery. There will be a on/off switch for the LED's on the electrical control panel that will be located above and behind the driver's head facing the passenger seat. They will not operate when opening a cargo door. Since I have the high roof, I will fill between the ribs with insulation and then add another 1/2" of rigid insulation over the ribs. If you can lower the ceiling height 1/2", then the wiring would be covered. I will use 1/2" thick 1" dia. nylon spacers at each ceiling retaining bolt. A 1" hole in the 1/2" rigid with a SS fender washer holding up the rigid and the Macrolux ceiling material.

 

[V37]

I will disconnect the LED lights from the Transit electrical system. Will relocate the 4 lights on the van centerline and power them from the house battery. There will be a on/off switch for the LED's on the electrical control panel that will be located above and behind the driver's head facing the passenger seat. They will not operate when opening a cargo door. Since I have the high roof, I will fill between the ribs with insulation and then add another 1/2" of rigid insulation over the ribs. If you can lower the ceiling height 1/2", then the wiring would be covered. I will use 1/2" thick 1" dia. nylon spacers at each ceiling retaining bolt. A 1" hole in the 1/2" rigid with a SS fender washer holding up the rigid and the Macrolux ceiling material.

Quite an interesting plan. Didn't realize, as is, the cargo LED's lights will automatically come on when the door opens.

I have the medium roof,...and wasn't considering adding thickness to the ceiling,...but stuffing the where able, with Thinsulate:
http://www.visteon.com/innovate/growthmarket/pdfs/Thinsulate_Acoustic_Insulation.pdf

And your fan(s) are/will be attached how?

The "electrical control panel"...you're attaching to the plastic overhead shelf?

Haven't caught up to your House Battery plan,...suppose it's discussed in your Conversion discussion. My Sprinter plan was to have 2 deep cycles under the hood,...and have the alternator as one of the chargers,...but the Transit is set up different. I'll look for some House Battery discussions when I can.

 

[orton]

Quite an interesting plan. Didn't realize, as is, the cargo LED's lights will automatically come on when the door opens.

I have the medium roof,...and wasn't considering adding thickness to the ceiling,...but stuffing the where able, with Thinsulate:
http://www.visteon.com/innovate/growthmarket/pdfs/Thinsulate_Acoustic_Insulation.pdf

And your fan(s) are/will be attached how?

The "electrical control panel"...you're attaching to the plastic overhead shelf?

Haven't caught up to your House Battery plan,...suppose it's discussed in your Conversion discussion. My Sprinter plan was to have 2 deep cycles under the hood,...and have the alternator as one of the chargers,...but the Transit is set up different. I'll look for some House Battery discussions when I can.

What I did in the 08 sold Sprinter:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=151926&postcount=1

Fan Install:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=129813&postcount=1

One fan at back of van over bed. That worked well in Sprinter. Seldom powered it because I had a hole in the floor for natural air movement.

Electrical control panel will be located where I removed the black Styrofoam block. I will have a shower enclosure wall directly behind driver's seat. Panel will bolt to that at the top.

House electrical is different from what most people do in a RV. A completely separate ungrounded 12 volt house system with two wires to each load. Two sources of 120 volt power for charging. Shore and 120volt power from a vehicle 12 volt powered 1000 watt pure sine inverter while driving. Never directly connect to the alternator (numerous reasons).

Will have a selector switch to select which 120 volt source I want to use. A second selector switch lets me use the vehicle supplied 120 volt power to charge or to heat shower water or operate a electric baseboard heater.

Either of the two 120 volt power sources a can be used by the Magnum MSS1012 1000 watt pure sine inverter/charger/transfer switch to charge a single house 8D 255 amp-hr Lifeline AGM battery.

The electrical block diagram is attached. Had similar system in the Sprinter.

 

[V37]

One fan at back of van over bed. That worked well in Sprinter. Seldom powered it because I had a hole in the floor for natural air movement.

The electrical block diagram is attached. Had similar system in the Sprinter.

Very nice (#4) post,...much to ponder on.

Did you calculate the ratio between the ceiling fan opening, and the floor hole opening,...to get a good enough flow that the fan was seldom needed?

Back to the LED Cargo Lights,...as I understand it, you have not yet removed the lines. Please chime back on this thread if anything comes up when you do. I suspect, after reading your plan, that I'll do something similar,...as the LED's are positioned more for a cargo application, rather than a conversion,...and I also would rather they came on when I wanted, not every time the door open . Thanks.

Another question,...which could apply to working the ceiling, and resetting the LED lights,...have you used butyl rope?

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/extruded-butyl-rope-ebr

 

[orton]

Very nice (#4) post,...much to ponder on.

Did you calculate the ratio between the ceiling fan opening, and the floor hole opening,...to get a good enough flow that the fan was seldom needed?

Back to the LED Cargo Lights,...as I understand it, you have not yet removed the lines. Please chime back on this thread if anything comes up when you do. I suspect, after reading your plan, that I'll do something similar,...as the LED's are positioned more for a cargo application, rather than a conversion,...and I also would rather they came on when I wanted, not every time the door open . Thanks.

Another question,...which could apply to working the ceiling, and resetting the LED lights,...have you used butyl rope?

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/extruded-butyl-rope-ebr

Did not calculate anything. I had read about passive solar design before I had our house and barn built. So when I designed the buildings I included low mounted windows and openable windows at the very peak of the open beamed ceilings. Worked so well in the house and barn that I figured it should work in the van. It does. I had a 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" hole in floor of Sprinter with a closable lid. You do not want it open when driving on dusty roads or at night when you want to retain heat in the van.

Do not know what butyl rope is. I will do the ceiling in the Transit the same as I did the Sprinter with two changes. Since I have the high roof I can add one additional layer of 1/2" rigid insulation between the ceiling and the van ribs. I will also use Macrolux for the ceiling instead of expanded PVC. Where would you use the butyl rope?

 

[V37]

Do not know what butyl rope is. I will do the ceiling in the Transit the same as I did the Sprinter with two changes. Since I have the high roof I can add one additional layer of 1/2" rigid insulation between the ceiling and the van ribs. I will also use Macrolux for the ceiling instead of expanded PVC. Where would you use the butyl rope?

Where? For ceiling applications,...perhaps part of securing the LED's or other areas that may have a tendency to rattle in time. At the moment, I'm in a planning stage, and attempting to visualize, on paper, the flow/steps of my build,...through learning about other's experience, and how they applied various methods of conversion.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/extruded-butyl-rope-ebr

 

[orton]

Where? For ceiling applications,...perhaps part of securing the LED's or other areas that may have a tendency to rattle in time. At the moment, I'm in a planning stage, and attempting to visualize, on paper, the flow/steps of my build,...through learning about other's experience, and how they applied various methods of conversion.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/extruded-butyl-rope-ebr

Thanks for the butyl rope information. I did have one noise from my Sprinter ceiling. Not continuous. I think it eventually went away. The reason I did not have a noise problem is probably due to filling all the seams and openings in the rigid insulation with spray can insulation that glued it all together and to the van body. Maybe I should spray the bottom of the roof ribs with a rubber compound available in spray cans?

The butyl rope may be a method of restricting water flow into the engine compartment and in the incorrect design air cleaner flange?

 

[PeterR]

The site linked by V37 has useful info. on sound deadening in general, and a good FAQ section as well:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/vehicle-areas

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/faq-questions-top

His section on packages for Ford does not have anything for the Transit FYI:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/vehicles-by-manufacturer/Ford

Thanks for the butyl rope information. I did have one noise from my Sprinter ceiling. Not continuous. I think it eventually went away. The reason I did not have a noise problem is probably due to filling all the seams and openings in the rigid insulation with spray can insulation that glued it all together and to the van body. Maybe I should spray the bottom of the roof ribs with a rubber compound available in spray cans?

The butyl rope may be a method of restricting water flow into the engine compartment and in the incorrect design air cleaner flange?

Where? For ceiling applications,...perhaps part of securing the LED's or other areas that may have a tendency to rattle in time. At the moment, I'm in a planning stage, and attempting to visualize, on paper, the flow/steps of my build,...through learning about other's experience, and how they applied various methods of conversion.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/extruded-butyl-rope-ebr

 

[V37]

The butyl rope may be a method of restricting water flow into the engine compartment and in the incorrect design air cleaner flange?

How can that be? Did the 275 times around the world not include rainy weather?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS0Sgh4_2FE&index=42&list=PL8mGeogipcV6fWuqbIuXiAxgURnn2JhiW