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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Got back into town just in time to hit the line shop.

Still need fluids, radiator line/clamps, and brackets to hang the cooler.

The core pieces are in house though.

Got 180° snap on fittings to the cooler adapter:

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Then some of the same style of snap on oil line fittings for the cooler itself:

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I've never seen or heard of these but what I find attractive is that you can keep extra line and fluid and just cut off a faulty line and slip the new line on and fill.

Some high temp line to go with it which I'll trim to fit:

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I'll be using a bunch of 'L' bracket with holes in it to hang the cooler. Two long pieces to bolt the cooler to and then a piece on each end that is vertical bolted to the body spars and then some cut down 90's to connect the two assemblies together.

If that does not work I'll just get metal to drill and bolt up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Those stock cooler lines are a PITA to remove. Part of the lines are still attached to the engine where there is a bracket holding the hard lines.

I disconnected the lines from the exchanger and transmission. Then cut the soft section to remove the front half of the lines and then used a cutting wheel to cut the hard lines behind the engine line mounting bracket.

Installed the cooler adapter and started working on the angled bracket to mount the cooler and stopped there for today.

Tomorrow with fresh eyes and mind I'll finish hanging the cooler, fill and purge it, drain the transmission and fill it, then heat it up, manually shift all gears once up to temp and check fluid level.

The coolant lines are still connected to the heat exchanger. I'll leave those for the moment just to see what happens when the engine gets up to temperature, whether or not it starts passing coolant.

What I observed from pulling the lines is that the upper line(hot side?) Had brownish fluid and the other side draining from the transmission was proper red color. Fluid only had 30k miles since the full service.

The coolant in the reservoir turns purple when the transmission fluid passes through and mixes and I've seen this the last time I had the van out.

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As seen in the pics, angle bracket, I'll bolt the halves together and then use some more to hang off of the frame and try to tie it together for some rigidity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I got the cooler installed today, drained and filled a bunch of transmission fluid and ran it. Haven't gotten a hot fluid level check but before I ran it to purge air from the system/cooler it was maybe near the high side.

After running the van up the nearby mountain I can feel heat in the cooler and lines. Took running up a mountain to get the cooler hot enough.

I'm going to take it to a shop Friday to adjust the hot transmission fluid level and before then I'll flush out my cooling system and switch to the new yellow coolant.

I have a small obd plug in code reader. Need to see if it can tell me transmission temps or I'll hunt down that Bluetooth plug in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Edit to add that on the long hill climb my coolant never spiked and I was running both A/C units at maximum cruising up the mountain at 70mph.

Edit #2: with the heat exchanger failing and pushing out transmission fluid and pulling coolant into the transmission, when I popped the transmission plug to pull out the oil, the top half was a mix of tranny fluid and coolant. It poured out of the fill hole!

Poor transmission was high on fluid level and some being coolant.

After getting out more than a few quarts, maybe 5 in total with the lines, it shifts much smoother again.

As a side note, when the transmission was taking on the coolant my fuel economy went down and overheating was more frequent and then the transmission was skipping under boost.
 

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@Chillis
When i was looking for cooling options, i kept ending up on the mustang fourms, that were road racing them.
The one common thing i found was, they all said the sweet spot was keeping the transmission at ~175F vs the 190F or higher that the engine coolant keeps it at.

Better shifting and mpg, was the results for them at the 175F.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
By those com
@Chillis
When i was looking for cooling options, i kept ending up on the mustang fourms, that were road racing them.
The one common thing i found was, they all said the sweet spot was keeping the transmission at ~175F vs the 190F or higher that the engine coolant keeps it at.

Better shifting and mpg, was the results for them at the 175F.
By those comments it sounds like I'd be better served with a fan assisted cooler to keep the temps more consistent.

First step will be proper transmission fluid level and then monitoring the temps under multiple multiple conditions.
 

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By those com


By those comments it sounds like I'd be better served with a fan assisted cooler to keep the temps more consistent.

First step will be proper transmission fluid level and then monitoring the temps under multiple multiple conditions.
Your new setup with the 6r80, will be limited by the valve. If the cooler is good enough, it may make that valve open and close constantly. If the GM 6L80 has the same setting as yours, it opens at 70C/158F. (couldn't find a temp for the internal one)

The OEM setup is limited to the temp of the engine coolant. Which the thermostat for the engine is a ~190F.

So if the value is opening at 158F, you could be lowering temps 30F with just your passive system.

Since i couldn't remove the exchanger in my 10r80 setup to split the cooling, i've got a 170F engine thermostat to try out.
 
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The Transit 6r80 does not have the thermal valve like the F150. Fluid flows all of the time hot or cold. I learned this from the fordtechmakesyouloko channel on YouTube and it proved true as I changed my fluid by removing the cooler lines when cold and got full flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Your new setup with the 6r80, will be limited by the valve. If the cooler is good enough, it may make that valve open and close constantly. If the GM 6L80 has the same setting as yours, it opens at 70C/158F. (couldn't find a temp for the internal one)

The OEM setup is limited to the temp of the engine coolant. Which the thermostat for the engine is a ~190F.

So if the value is opening at 158F, you could be lowering temps 30F with just your passive system.

Since i couldn't remove the exchanger in my 10r80 setup to split the cooling, i've got a 170F engine thermostat to try out.
I've currently left my exchanger stuck to the radiator. The coolant lines still run through it although I'll monitor for leaks.

Not sure why you couldn't do the same and run an adapter and cooler.
 

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I've currently left my exchanger stuck to the radiator. The coolant lines still run through it although I'll monitor for leaks.

Not sure why you couldn't do the same and run an adapter and cooler.
On my 2022/10r80, the exchanger is also the adaptor for the transmission. It sits right on the transmission above the sub frame. I bought the hard/soft line that comes on yours, with the adaptor built in.

But when i loosened the exchanger, i would have to either drop the sub frame or cut the pipes off the exchanger to get it out. Neither i felt comfortable doing, especially when the transmission ports didn't match the hose ports (hose ports are vertical, transmission ports are horizontal)
 
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
On my 2022/10r80, the exchanger is also the adaptor for the transmission. It sits right on the transmission above the sub frame. I bought the hard/soft line that comes on yours, with the adaptor built in.

But when i loosened the exchanger, i would have to either drop the sub frame or cut the pipes off the exchanger to get it out. Neither i felt comfortable doing, especially when the transmission ports didn't match the hose ports (hose ports are vertical, transmission ports are horizontal)
I wonder if that new design has had issues the way the old model has.

If you see the high temps I wouldn't hesitate to cut the stock lines out if the way and hang a fan controlled cooler.

I'm using seat bolts from my custom seats, installed longer ones, to hang the cooler.

The fuel tank strap bolts would be a great stock bolt option, longer bolts to make a bracket from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I'm going to need a proper flush and fill of this system.

I checked fluid level while cold and I was high, probably all the way to the fill hole.

Dropped some out of the system and I'm around the cold high line. I'm not sure if fluid from the cooler is backed up into the system though.

Cooler above transmission pan means the cooler will over fill the system on shut down.

The stuff I removed looked gross though. I don't have a way to check it hot without going and getting some high temp gloves. I'm going to go run it up the nearby mountain to see how it feels after removing some of the fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I took the van out and ran it up the mountain. Shifting is hit or miss. Not great. The van accelerates quicker and fuel economy readout is higher.

When I stopped to do a touch test on the cooler it was cool still. When I got back to the house just cruising it was warm.

No way to know fluid temps are at the moment so I did what any genius of the male species would do and grabbed the wife's cooking thermometer and touched it to the outside of the cooler. The temp got up to the 182f but was losing temp quickly as the van was shut down.

I can try and use the van tomorrow on a highway run and have the fluid flushed when I get to southern Utah and the level set while hot.

Or I can not use it and wait until Tuesday for a local place to replace the fluid/set level.

Cruising it feels fine and some shift feel fine. It randomly shifts poorly/notchy and sometimes has a skip.

It really liked the new fluid on the first run but I believe it has already been mixed into the crud that has been in there.

My OBD code reader doesn't offer any temp gauges, just emissions parts checking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Since I'm running the beast tomorrow, I've decided to check the level again. Now it was low. The engine was still kind of warm from the run earlier so I pumped in some fresh Mercon LV to just below the hot full line and then took it for another run up the mountain and around town for a bit.

Shifting feels great. Everything feels smooth.

Temperature on the exterior of the cooler had a high of 188°f. Not sure what makes the transmission temps go high or low.

Now I'll need a way to verify internal temps of the transmission fluid.
 

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It sounds like you already have an OBD reader, but just in case it's helpful, my Scangauge II does read transmission temperature (I don't have a Transit, but on an E-350 and on a friend's Subaru and Honda). On the E-350 I had to punch in the code for "TFT" after buying the Scangauge, but they give you the numbers and it took less than ten minutes.

I run mine all the time showing me exact coolant temperature (in ºF), Transmission fluid temperature (in ºF) and there are two other fields where I alternate between other things depending on what I'm doing (MPG, %Load, voltage, etc.). It also reads and lets you dismiss or save codes so it's multi-purpose.

I suppose it matters where it reads the TFT, too.

Lastly, I don't suppose an RF thermometer could help? (I don't know if a surface reading would be useful.)
 

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I took the van out and ran it up the mountain. Shifting is hit or miss. Not great. The van accelerates quicker and fuel economy readout is higher.

When I stopped to do a touch test on the cooler it was cool still. When I got back to the house just cruising it was warm.

No way to know fluid temps are at the moment so I did what any genius of the male species would do and grabbed the wife's cooking thermometer and touched it to the outside of the cooler. The temp got up to the 182f but was losing temp quickly as the van was shut down.

I can try and use the van tomorrow on a highway run and have the fluid flushed when I get to southern Utah and the level set while hot.

Or I can not use it and wait until Tuesday for a local place to replace the fluid/set level.

Cruising it feels fine and some shift feel fine. It randomly shifts poorly/notchy and sometimes has a skip.

It really liked the new fluid on the first run but I believe it has already been mixed into the crud that has been in there.

My OBD code reader doesn't offer any temp gauges, just emissions parts checking.
If you know the trans fluid is contaminated why do you not have it flushed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
If you know the trans fluid is contaminated why do you not have it flushed?
Working on it. Did a partial flush to fit new components. Want to make sure everything works because there is a possibility of needing another more efficient cooler.

Already planning on redoing the lines as those high pressure lines would not fully seat on the slide lock fittings so I had to get some larger cheaper lines that fit and clamped them on.

I'd prefer to go clamp-less.

Tuesday I may be able to get the van in for a flush.

The good news is I am running it right now, highway, up some hills and it runs great. Fuel economy is much improved over the coolant/tranny fluid overfilling due to the heat exchanger failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'm thinking the cooler works fine so far on the highway but at slower speeds where airflow is minimal you can feel the shifting quality change.

Options will be a fan and ducting or switch to a fan cooler with temp control.
 

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@Chillis can you help me understand how to remove the OEM lines from the transmission side and the heat exchanger? Do they just pull out or is a special tool required? And did you see any potential space to tap into the soft line portion?

I was initially thinking of adding an additional cooler in series but now thinking just bypassing the baby cooler might be better in the long run. I have a Derale 25 Row Core Stacked Plate Cooler Kit that I was gonna run in front of the rad/ac condenser.

I run the Torque App to monitor transmission fluid temperature it works well. I am consistently hot (225+) on long road trips driving 75-80 after a few hours. It will just keep climbing so it is very frustrating to have to stop before gas stops to cool down the beast.

Thanks for all the info in this thread by all contributors!
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
@Chillis can you help me understand how to remove the OEM lines from the transmission side and the heat exchanger? Do they just pull out or is a special tool required? And did you see any potential space to tap into the soft line portion?

I was initially thinking of adding an additional cooler in series but now thinking just bypassing the baby cooler might be better in the long run. I have a Derale 25 Row Core Stacked Plate Cooler Kit that I was gonna run in front of the rad/ac condenser.

I run the Torque App to monitor transmission fluid temperature it works well. I am consistently hot (225+) on long road trips driving 75-80 after a few hours. It will just keep climbing so it is very frustrating to have to stop before gas stops to cool down the beast.

Thanks for all the info in this thread by all contributors!
There are 8mm hex head bolts that hold the lines in and a torx bolt bracket below the lines into a bracket by the bottom of the radiator.

Just to pull the lines you can undo those and I cut the lines at the soft section by the oil cooler since I'm unable to reach the bracket on the cooler lines engine mount.

The lines themselves are in rubber barrel spacers into the cooler. They just slide out.

I'd seen videos of some weird tool for separating or removing the lines and maybe that is just for the F-150. Doesn't seem applicable here.

Anybody with one of these older 6R80's, I'd be bypassing the heat exchanger in a hurry. The transmission temperature will come up no matter what since the unit is connected with the engine and it is obvious that the system doesn't function as well as intended.

My question regarding operating temperatures is if the temps are kept below 220°f always, is there ever emulsification of condensation in the fluid?

I'm going to change the lines today plus have the fluid flushed.

Still need an app and OBD device to monitor temps.
 
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