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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was going to wait a bit longer to post, to get more familiar with the different settings, but I know some of you were curious as to the functionality of this box.
Before I even ordered my Transit I was looking up tuning boxes, ECU remaps, sensor “foolers”, even full emission deletes. What I found was that there were almost no aftermarket products or support for the 3.2 diesel here in the US. This means, whatever I do, I am on my own. This is also my everyday work vehicle so I have to make sure whatever I do is safe, not too expensive (or at least worth paying for the product), and will not void my warranty. So, even though nothing beats a good ECU remap and emissions delete, my only option at this time is an easily removable tuning chip/box that will safely add the extra power that I want without voiding my warranty
The” Bluespark Pro with boost control” is the only tuning box I found that “dynamically” changes both common rail senor and boost sensor output. My reasoning for both is the more fuel that is added the more air is needed to allow a complete burn, which in turn will keep the DPF from filling as fast. I also like the fact that this box can drop the output to stock once the maximum rpm is achieved, as not to stress the emission/exhaust system too much.


So I ordered it last Wednesday and received it this Tuesday, not bad for overseas standard shipping.

So it came with the basics, tuning box, wiring harness, instructions, a couple of zip ties, and….



A bypass plug, so you can remove the box without disconnecting the wiring, nice little bonus.



I am not sure why I wasn’t that surprised, but the pictures that show the location of the sensors and the placement of the wiring was definitely not of the 3.2L powerstroke.



After removing the foam engine cover, it didn’t take long to figure out where the sensors were. The rail pressure sensor is all the way at the back end of the common rail.




Removing the plug was painless.



Next up is the Boost pressure sensor (map sensor)




I quickly zip tied the wiring and the box just to see if this thing will actually work and quickly return it if it doesn’t work or throw codes.


YAY, NO CODES AND IT WORKS......... More to come
 

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Yes! Thank you for the info, as said, excellent work!

Please keep us posted!

I put a mild, 40HP, Banks chip in my 96 F350 7.3 Powerstroke about 15+ years ago...still running it with 212K miles.
Might even consider doing something to my 3.2 Powerstroke- I too do not want to lose my warranty so it has to be removeable without a trace.
 

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I have owned diesel trucks for 20 years and I have been using tuners on every single one including my current 2008 Dodge. The game has totally changed since mid 2007 when all the new diesel emissions rules came into effect. My 2008 had a DPF, EGR and 2 catalytic converters. Current diesels add the DEF in the mix. All of those new emissions related equipment have ruined modern diesels and killed their economy.

What you are using is a "fooler", they have been around for years and trick the sensors so you can run higher rail pressure and turbo boost. They used to be a great low cost way of improving your trucks performance. Now they are a huge mistake if you have not removed the emissions equipment. Now you need a true tuner that reprograms the truck to not open the EGR and either change the DPF burnoff schedule or remove it entirely. A "fooler" used on modern diesels will ruin the emissions equipment and will cost you thousand of dollars in repairs. The dealer knows instantly that you are running a "fooler" because all the value are saved in the computer.

Spend some time on the Ford and Cummins diesel forums and you will see the damage a "fooler" will do and why they are not to be used on a modern diesel.

The fact that no true tuner is available is the only reason I went with the Ecoboost. As soon as a reputable company like Green Diesel Engineering makes a tuner for the Transit I will buy the diesel and enjoy great power and mileage. Not power or mileage as in the Ecoboost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First impressions

Ok, so after having fun with this tuner for a couple of days I feel that I have enough useful information to give my first impressions.


First and foremost, this is not a cheap "fooler" with just a couple of resistors inside the box that you find on Ebay, which can hurt engines and emission equipment. The programming in this tuner dynamically limits the maximum output of the rail pressure to within OEM limits and syncs the boost pressure to match the fuel output (as not to foul the emission equipment). I will talk about this later.

So the tuner comes with a couple of settings. There are 5 settings on the jumper for 5 distinct maps. The potentiometer adjusts the level output for map you choose (0 = turns off any additional output and 9 = 100%)





Here are the 5 maps




I started off with the default setting (B5):
Right off the bat I noticed a much better response from idle. The acceleration was better than stock, but still too slow for my taste. I did notice the MPG gauge drop to 12-14mpg, even though I still achieved 210 miles from a ½ tank of diesel. This probably means the calculations take the high pressure fuel pump duty cycle into account.
I started off with this setting because I was worried that too much of a sensor output change would set off the CES light (CES never turned on).

Next step up (B6):
I couldn’t help it but to switch to this setting after only 1.5 days. I did notice a difference in acceleration right away. This setting is about on par with the 3.5 Ecoboost Transit but with a faster response. The one thing that I didn’t like was that the extra torque increased the stall speed about 300 RPMs higher, so the shifts were at a higher rpm. The one thing that I like seeing though is the DPF did not fill any faster than stock.

My current setting (B7):
This is where it got fun. This setting is definitely “seat of the pants” fast, with an instant response. I wouldn’t be afraid of taking on any stock 3.5 ecoboost Transits. The RPMs does seem to climb even higher than the previous setting due how fast the engine accelerates. I also noticed “IF” I drive it like a normal person the DPF does seem to fill up a little slower than when it was stock (about 20%), but If I “drive like I stole it” it does fill up about 30% faster.

After about 200 miles I did start noticing the transmission spending less time in each gear, the MPG gauge starting to show a more on par number, and the shifts getting firmer. This made things all that much better. I now can get pushed back into my seat, pass the other cars, and see the transmission shift nice and firm at a nice easy 2500 RPMs.


More later…..
 

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Appreciate the info! Keep it coming!

Curious where you got the graph- is one available including the stock performance trace? Of course it would have to graph torque and/or horsepower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How are you calculating how fast or slow the DPF is filling up?

I have the active regen with regen inhibitor option, so I just turn off the regen all together and see how many miles it takes to get to 100%.
I drive in the City of Chicago, lots of stop and goes, and I let the engine slow down van before I break (cools the DPF even more), which is the worst possible scenario when it comes to keeping the DPF clean. So, I only average about 60 miles per regen cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Ok, so after about a week I figure I will post my latest experiences.


Using setting (B8):
This setting does feel more aggressive than my previous setting (B7), with a faster punch and more mid end torque. What I didn't like about this setting was how touchy the throttle was. I always had to be very careful to just barely touch the pedal starting off or else the van would jump. This does make sense though, as map B does have the most aggressive gains down low. As such, this is not exactly what I was looking for.


Setting (A9):
I wanted to just try this map, as it is the least aggressive down low, so I wouldn't have to worry about the van jumping if I accidentally press the throttle a tad too hard. Right away this map reminded me of the way my van ran when it was stock. It took a while to accelerate, it does seem to give more torque in the mid range area, but then falls off at about 3400 RPMs. Again, not what I am looking for.


Setting (D6)
:D This is definitely my map. It just gives a little extra starting off, as not to make the throttle too sensitive, it adds a HUGE amount of torque going up the RPM range, and the transmission shifts before the power starts falling off. This setting also kept the DPF the cleanest for the most miles out of any of the previous settings, including stock.
I also find it interesting that this is the most "dynamic" map out of all of them, as the most time was probably spent making/testing this one.

Here is how my van now shifts with the (D6) map:


Standard acceleration:



WOT:


3rd gear torque test:


With the torque test, you basically set the transmission into Manual 3rd gear and see how fast you can go from 10mph-40mph and what RPMs the engine jumps to from start to finish. I think its a great (poor mans) torque comparison test for those of you who want to compare Transits.
 

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So that's slipping the TC majorly huh? I wonder if you can get it to lock up around 1400 rpm in third and pull from there?
 

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Agree, 10.1 seconds for 0 to 50 is relatively slow. That probably won't even beat a standard V6.

Like Motor Trend said a couple of years ago, Diesels "feel" fast, gasoline "is" fast.

Torque is most useful off the line in first gear because it yields more "power", but at speed it's "power" and not torque that gets the job done. That's why in instrumented testing the vehicle with more power to weight ratio almost always wins. It's unfortunate that marketing has corrupted the science of torque versus power. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I guess I forgot to state that my van weighs 9,035 lbs (with driver). I am not 100% but I don't think Motor Trend tested the 3.5 with the van with equipment in it. I do have to clean it out for boiler equipment, so I will test it again empty and see what #s I get.
 

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I bet Xphobe's tuned 3.2 can have an 3.5 eb for breakfast across an intersection from a dead stop. That's all I need my diesel to do in order to get where i'm going more quickly. Just get me a truck length ahead of the dingus next to me so I can get ahead and not be subject to his/her inevitable boneheaded driving.

Also, 7.5 to 60 dead empty isn't quick enough for all the extra fuel you're using in an Ecoboost.
 

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I guess I forgot to state that my van weighs 9,035 lbs (with driver). I am not 100% but I don't think Motor Trend tested the 3.5 with the van with equipment in it. I do have to clean it out for boiler equipment, so I will test it again empty and see what #s I get.
So that WOT video was at 9035 lbs? That's mighty impressive.
 

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Ok, so after about a week I figure I will post my latest experiences.


Setting (D6)
:D This is definitely my map. It just gives a little extra starting off, as not to make the throttle too sensitive, it adds a HUGE amount of torque going up the RPM range, and the transmission shifts before the power starts falling off. This setting also kept the DPF the cleanest for the most miles out of any of the previous settings, including stock.
I also find it interesting that this is the most "dynamic" map out of all of them, as the most time was probably spent making/testing this one.
Thanks a bunch for being brave enough to try this out for "us". Can I assume you purchased it off the Bluespark website directly?

I'm a diesel newbie but a long time gearhead car/bike mechanic so I was definitely planning on a tuner of some sort. I like pretty much everything I read about this unit and your very positive feedback might just seal the deal for me.

I looked at the map curves and the D6 definitely looks like what I'd want.

Do you have a ODBII scanner setup? I'd be very interested to know if the EGT really are staying near stock or possibly cooler. That's my only concern.

Please keep updating the thread as you live/drive with it. Hopefully all will be good and maybe a few of us will take the plunge.

Personally I prefer the plug n play type rather than a full ECU flash as it's much easier to go back to stock if need be.
 

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xphobe,

Anymore updates on this?

I'm quite interested and would like to know if it's "solid", meaning no error codes being thrown after time etc.

Have you settled on the D7 map for good? Any words of wisdom on the installation?
 
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