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2020 T150 Passenger Low Roof 130 AWD
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Discussion Starter #1
Getting parts together and reading BEMM for converting from single FLA to single AGM for a 2020. Even if you don't have experience with a 2020 I hope you can help me interpret the BEMM.

The parts and diagrams are spelled out in the BEMM (Pg. 82 attached). I've read all the prior threads I can find and my questions weren't addressed. I opened my battery tray to see what everything looks like now. If I had a 2020 single AGM set up to compare it to that would be nice. So far, three dealers are spinning their wheels trying to put a scope of work and price together. I will eventually want/need a dealer to reprogram per Page 83 BEMM.

I can find the parts listed at the top of Pg. 82 except for two. One isn't in the system (See Question 1 below) and the KK2V-14277-A* part is on back order. (I only know to use parts.ford.com. Is there a better place to look?). I haven't contacted Body Builder Advisory Service, but I could try that.

Thought I'd ask for help here first. I'm not very mechanically inclined but hope I can get this done without breaking anything.

Questions:

1. "Plug Insert" Part No. BK2T-3225-BA is not in the Ford system by my searching. What is this thing and where does it go? And how do I find it? If any 2020 single AGM owner can somehow share what their set up looks like I can compare it to what I already have.

2. Is "Plug Insert" related to the LIN/BMS plugs on the terminals? Which end? In the diagrams on Page 82 (shows negative terminal detail), Item No. 2, the LIN, is shown plugged into the Battery Monitoring Sensor (BMS) on the negative terminal. In the diagrams on Page 81 (shows positive terminal detail) there is a plug thingy with a fuse (for the BMS) attached to the positive terminal. I confirmed I have both of those on my existing cables.

3. How about venting: The AGMs in the diagram have vent tubes which exit the box further forward. Any reason I can't just modify the new battery tray (drill a hole it it) to line up with the existing vent exit? It would help to know where the hole is in the undercarriage - whether it lines up with the middle or the front of the battery tray.

4. Does just one nut tighten and loosen the terminal clamps on each terminal? Do I just use the loner nut that sits opposite of the cable wiring? It's labeled clearly on Page 82 for the negative terminal but then on Page 81 for the positive terminal it shows Item 4 to be re-used and torqued. This might be for assembling new cables?? I'm not so sure.

Thanks for any help!
 

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2020 T150 Passenger Low Roof 130 AWD
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Discussion Starter #2
90 views so far but no replies so will try something less intense:

From DIYers who have switched from single FLA to single AGM, what year, engine and model was it?

I can compare systems and BEMMs. Maybe what worked for you will work for me. Here's hoping.
 

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I may very well be wrong, but I think it may be the horizontal spacer/bracket thingy. I recall it being called a plug somewhere, maybe in a battery removal or upgrade video. You might try searching on YouTube.
The part number exists in the Ford system, at least in Turkey where it is probably manufatured.
https://www.fordoner.com/shop/ford-transit-spare-parts/plug-bk2t32235ba-1779413-transit-v363/
Just curious (aka the $64k question is) What is you reason for wanting to change the battery (/configuration) on an almost new vehicle?
 

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2019 HR Cargo Oxford White 148 wb 3.7L
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The battery size is the same for single or dual battery (H6). If you want to upgrade to a single AGM. I would just switch batteries. It would be a good idea to flash the ECM, because of the slightly different charge parameter's. but I wouldn't change all the other stuff, not needed. Sure do make a lot of work for yourself.
 

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90 views so far but no replies
I didn't respond for two reasons... One... My 2020 came with two AGMs. Two... I am unclear what you are trying to accomplish with this retrofit or what shortcoming(s) you were experiencing with your stock setup.
 

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I'll hazard to guess that ("Plug Insert" Part No. BK2T-3225-BA) is the spacer in the front of the battery box, when the single battery is mounted east west. keeps the battery from moving around, just make out of a piece of wood, paint it black so it won't look like a bodge.
 

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I'll hazard to guess that ("Plug Insert" Part No. BK2T-3225-BA) is the spacer in the front of the battery box, when the single battery is mounted east west. keeps the battery from moving around, just make out of a piece of wood, paint it black so it won't look like a bodge.
Too slow, see post # 3. You could probably have some fun with one of these: Group 34 Battery Spacer or if you want to go upscale Relion Lithium Battery Spacer
BTW - I was thinking about plusnuts and had an idea. What if ... ;)
 

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As for the venting and the cable's, it should seem self explanatory once you get the old stuff out, and compare it to the new stuff. Remember Negative cable goes on last, a lot of energy in those batteries, it get's exciting when a wrench completes the circuit between the positive post and ground. Safety first.
 

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I got some Rivet Nuts coming in.
Should take it you've built a pull strength tester? Even though that discussion is more fun, than starter batteries, we should get back on topic. Starter battery replacement may be the one of the few things I don't overthink.
 

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I swapped out my old single Fla battery for a new single Fla battery a year ago, This video was all I need to figure out how.

 

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Should take it you've built a pull strength tester? Even though that discussion is more fun, than starter batteries, we should get back on topic. Starter battery replacement may be the one of the few things I don't overthink.
I was going to do a straight pull out tester, but then read the topic on crash testing, so shear strength seems like a better measure for what is needed. So I need to give it more thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I may very well be wrong, but I think it may be the horizontal spacer/bracket thingy. I recall it being called a plug somewhere, maybe in a battery removal or upgrade video. You might try searching on YouTube.
The part number exists in the Ford system, at least in Turkey where it is probably manufatured.
BK2T32235BA | PLUG - BK2T-32235-BA - 1779413 - TRANSIT V363- BK2T32235BA | Ford Oner | Ford Cargo Spare Parts Wholesaler - Authorized Ford Wholesale Dealer
Just curious (aka the $64k question is) What is you reason for wanting to change the battery (/configuration) on an almost new vehicle?
Thanks for the info. I went back to youtube and rewatched the tech in the white lab coat change the transit batt. He called the spacer a brick or a brake I think. Is the Memory Saver that he used necessary before disconnecting the battery?

The $64K answer is I like the deeper drawdown and faster charging of AGM. At home it's short trips and poor recharge of the FLA. I've started to put it on a battery charger out by the garage. It's also a multiuse van that we sleep in at festivals or driving between short campouts for hiking and biking. I estimate running a roof fan during cool-down at night for maybe 1 to 3 hours. I'm using FarOutRide's amp draw data of 1 amp at speed 6 on the Maxxair for budgeting. If I can dedicate 25 Ah of AGM drawdown to the fan between drives, I'll get 10 hours of fan run. That might be enough, but we'll have to see. Would like to avoid a house system if possible. I'd really like to convert to dual AGMs under the seat but that's on the back burner. I'm learning as I go so comments welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The battery size is the same for single or dual battery (H6). If you want to upgrade to a single AGM. I would just switch batteries. It would be a good idea to flash the ECM, because of the slightly different charge parameter's. but I wouldn't change all the other stuff, not needed. Sure do make a lot of work for yourself.
I'll look into flashing the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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@Michael Ophus, I feel like a cheez. I did watch that early on but now it seems to have so much more good info.
 
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Thanks for the info. I went back to youtube and rewatched the tech in the white lab coat change the transit batt. He called the spacer a brick or a brake I think. Is the Memory Saver that he used necessary before disconnecting the battery?

The $64K answer is I like the deeper drawdown and faster charging of AGM. At home it's short trips and poor recharge of the FLA. I've started to put it on a battery charger out by the garage. It's also a multiuse van that we sleep in at festivals or driving between short campouts for hiking and biking. I estimate running a roof fan during cool-down at night for maybe 1 to 3 hours. I'm using FarOutRide's amp draw data of 1 amp at speed 6 on the Maxxair for budgeting. If I can dedicate 25 Ah of AGM drawdown to the fan between drives, I'll get 10 hours of fan run. That might be enough, but we'll have to see. Would like to avoid a house system if possible. I'd really like to convert to dual AGMs under the seat but that's on the back burner. I'm learning as I go so comments welcome.
How about looking to see if a 50AH deep cycle battery with an isolator or solenoid will fit alongside the starter battery? Then you don't need to worry about running down/shortening the life of the starter battery. Or if you go a new AGM starter battery, maybe try to use the old FLA as the house battery. You can get a cheap solenoid and some cables for $30.
 

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@njvagabond said:
The part number exists in the Ford system, at least in Turkey where it is probably manufactured.
BK2T32235BA | PLUG - BK2T-32235-BA - 1779413 - TRANSIT V363- BK2T32235BA | Ford Oner | Ford Cargo Spare Parts Wholesaler - Authorized Ford Wholesale Dealer


Checked out the Turkey site and while the part is $2.27, they have a $500 minimum order requirement. Cracks me up.
Wow, and I though I dig deep into **** sometimes. Maybe you can find a couple of hundred people interested in this conversion to go in on a group buy. If you are successful, I foresee the KC plant putting a hold on vans ordered with the single AGM battery options and a zillion posts on this site from anxious (impatient) people trying to find out what's holding up their van. Then eventually Crewvanman checks with his contacts, finds out and posts the answer. This of course is then be followed by a few zillion more posts (many first time) still asking the question. And lastly some old curmudgeon writes a rambling post in a poor attempt at humor, followed by an ROLF emoji. :ROFLMAO:
 
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