That Lunar Sky Metallic looks like an awesome color,...from Greenwater's pics on the forum.
2016 Transit 250 MR 148 LWB
Just ordered a 2016 Transit 250 Medium Roof 148 LWB. Expect delivery end of October. Will do a stealthy RV conversion.
Specifications:
Ford Transit 250 Medium Roof Cargo Van
3.7L V6 engine
6-speed Automatic
148" WB
Sliding Passenger Side Door
KT Color: Lunar Sky Metallic
X7L 3.73 Limited Slip Axle Ratio
17K All Around Windows w/2nd Row Driver & Passenger Side Flip Open Glass
18D Exterior Upgrade Package
21F Charcoal Cloth Seats 10-way
53B Heavy Duty Trailer Tow Package
542 Short Arm Power Adjustable Heated Exterior Mirrors w/Turn Signals
59B Trailer Wiring Provisions
60C Cruise Control w/Message Center
63C Heavy-Duty Alternator
647 16" Styled Aluminum Wheels w/Locking Lug Nuts
67D Trailer Brake Controller
92E Privacy Glass w/Rear Window Defogger
Van Williams.
Specifications:
Ford Transit 250 Medium Roof Cargo Van
3.7L V6 engine
6-speed Automatic
148" WB
Sliding Passenger Side Door
KT Color: Lunar Sky Metallic
X7L 3.73 Limited Slip Axle Ratio
17K All Around Windows w/2nd Row Driver & Passenger Side Flip Open Glass
18D Exterior Upgrade Package
21F Charcoal Cloth Seats 10-way
53B Heavy Duty Trailer Tow Package
542 Short Arm Power Adjustable Heated Exterior Mirrors w/Turn Signals
59B Trailer Wiring Provisions
60C Cruise Control w/Message Center
63C Heavy-Duty Alternator
647 16" Styled Aluminum Wheels w/Locking Lug Nuts
67D Trailer Brake Controller
92E Privacy Glass w/Rear Window Defogger
Van Williams.
1 - 20 of 83 Posts
That Lunar Sky Metallic looks like an awesome color,...from Greenwater's pics on the forum.
Difficult color to choose. In many photos from Ford the color looks different from image to image. But I found one dealer that had a 8" x 8" original color swatch.That Lunar Sky Metallic looks like an awesome color,...from Greenwater's pics on the forum.
The best representation I found was:
Van Williams
Just revisited Greenwater's threads and found it to be his picture.
Thanks Greenwater!
Thanks Greenwater!
Excellent website: http://cargovanconversion.com/ DIY conversion vans are going to be huge in the coming years. Loved that pic of the Hyundai H350Just ordered a 2016 Transit 250 Medium Roof 148 LWB. Expect delivery end of October. Will do a stealthy RV conversion.
Van Williams
I'm planning a similar layout. I'll elevate the rear floor about 8" for some slide-out draws (below your bike rack),...and plan for a jack-knife sofa/bed behind the driver seat. Want to ask though,...you ran a story on floor vents, with some research data,...where will you locate your floor vent(s) on the Transit,...and what will you use?
I C&Ped one of your sites plans. Also saw you have blanks,...thanks!
I used to sleep on a jack-knife sofa/bed in a travel trailer, never enjoyed that. I want something with a regular mattress this time around.Excellent website: http://cargovanconversion.com/ DIY conversion vans are going to be huge in the coming years. Loved that pic of the Hyundai H350
I'm planning a similar layout. I'll elevate the rear floor about 8" for some slide-out draws (below your bike rack),...and plan for a jack-knife sofa/bed behind the driver seat. Want to ask though,...you ran a story on floor vents, with some research data,...where will you locate your floor vent(s) on the Transit,...and what will you use?
I C&Ped one of your sites plans. Also saw you have blanks,...thanks!
Floor vents
I got intrigued with floor vents some time ago and the basic idea of cross-ventilation made a lot of sense to me. It also occurred to me temperature in the shade could be much lower, which in turn could be used to cool the interior of the van.
Being analytical, I had to find out whether the actual temperature differences were substantial enough to play a role and measured approx. 10 degree (F) between locations under the vehicle and at the side windows (where usually fresh air comes in).
This proves to me, that I want to further "investigate" the passive cooling idea and establish the floor location(s) opening diameters, use of (computer) fans, etc.
Additionally similar improved cooling of the fridge, may reduce energy consumption too, which is quite important for boondockers.
Having decided for a Transit with all-around windows, I will end up with mostly fixed windows, making floor vents even a better proposition.
Currently I'm thinking of one vent below the fridge, which on my current design would be on the drivers side near the rear wheel well. A second floor vent as far away from the rear roof vent as possible to induce cross ventilation. Likely immediately behind the front seats. I have to first wait till I have my new Transit, before I can experiment with that.
As vent I may use woodworking blast gates. These are used in dust collection and come in up to 6 inches wide.
May be able to build them myself and add another computer fan as necessary. Some more research and testing will be done before I would implement it. I'll publish that as it comes available.
You can read all about it here.
Van Williams
Well,...I think a bed depends on the mattress. For example, check out min 10:40I used to sleep on a jack-knife sofa/bed in a travel trailer, never enjoyed that. I want something with a regular mattress this time around.
Van Williams
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jwnzpda3zFg
I'd also like to explore Froli springs:
http://www.nickleatlantic.com/
As for vent(s),...yes,...below the frig is great. Dave Orton has some pics of his on this form. Actually,...it seems that the "heat" of the frig helps lift the cooler air in,...so that a ceiling vent (without a fan) moves the air quite well.
I had watched a video of a fellow putting vents in the side door well,...not sure if I'll try that,...although it does seem to be good second location.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miaimY1ANbU
Thanks for the "woodworking blast gates" pics....I'll have to look into that.
I put a 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" hole in the floor of my sold 08 Sprinter just in front of the left rear wheel.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=145056&postcount=9
The results were positive. Where you notice the most difference is when you leave the van parked in the sun. When entered van I immediately know if I forgot to leave the floor hole and the Maxxair vent open. Very obvious difference in interior temperature.
My Maxxair was located at the back of the van maybe 4' further back than the floor hole location so roof opening does not need to be that far away. I think it is important to have the roof opening and not just rely on the front windows. My Transit already has a 4" x 4" floor hole but I have not installed the roof Maxxair fan yet. While I work on the conversion with the driver and passengers glass partially down, the vent is not nearly as effective without the roof opening. Might also be because the slider and rear doors are open which prevents the draft from occurring.
It was interesting in the Sprinter with the hole in back and the Maxxair in back, I could feel the air flow while driving. Did not make sense but when I closed the floor hole I could not feel the air flow on the back of my head.
I chose that hole location because it was directly below the location of the refrigerator coil. The air flow goes up past the coil on its way out the roof vent. You can put your hand next to the floor opening and feel the air flow. It is not necessary to have any powered fans. Just two open holes.
The air flow plus wrapping the refrigerator in Reflectix and surrounding 4 sides of the refrigerator with 1 1/2" polyS rigid insulation makes a difference in run time of the refrigerator. In the link above you can see where the refrigerator is located on the 80/20 structure. The four angles shown in picture are the mounts for the refrigerator. If you look at any brand refrigerator's wall thickness you can see that they do not have much insulation. Adding some when you install it is worthwhile.
You do want to be able to open/close the opening easily. My Rube Goldberg lawnmower pull cord is accessible from the bed platform and from the walkway. Transit will have the same design since it worked well.
The reason I tried the hole in the floor was due to my reading about passive solar house design. I first built a barn with a cupola with openable windows at top of the open beam ceiling with a openable door to the street level below my second floor office. That worked so when we built the house we did the same thing. Get significant air flow with a window open and the cupola windows open. Since it worked so well in the barn and house I figured it might work in the van. It did.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=145056&postcount=9
The results were positive. Where you notice the most difference is when you leave the van parked in the sun. When entered van I immediately know if I forgot to leave the floor hole and the Maxxair vent open. Very obvious difference in interior temperature.
My Maxxair was located at the back of the van maybe 4' further back than the floor hole location so roof opening does not need to be that far away. I think it is important to have the roof opening and not just rely on the front windows. My Transit already has a 4" x 4" floor hole but I have not installed the roof Maxxair fan yet. While I work on the conversion with the driver and passengers glass partially down, the vent is not nearly as effective without the roof opening. Might also be because the slider and rear doors are open which prevents the draft from occurring.
It was interesting in the Sprinter with the hole in back and the Maxxair in back, I could feel the air flow while driving. Did not make sense but when I closed the floor hole I could not feel the air flow on the back of my head.
I chose that hole location because it was directly below the location of the refrigerator coil. The air flow goes up past the coil on its way out the roof vent. You can put your hand next to the floor opening and feel the air flow. It is not necessary to have any powered fans. Just two open holes.
The air flow plus wrapping the refrigerator in Reflectix and surrounding 4 sides of the refrigerator with 1 1/2" polyS rigid insulation makes a difference in run time of the refrigerator. In the link above you can see where the refrigerator is located on the 80/20 structure. The four angles shown in picture are the mounts for the refrigerator. If you look at any brand refrigerator's wall thickness you can see that they do not have much insulation. Adding some when you install it is worthwhile.
You do want to be able to open/close the opening easily. My Rube Goldberg lawnmower pull cord is accessible from the bed platform and from the walkway. Transit will have the same design since it worked well.
The reason I tried the hole in the floor was due to my reading about passive solar house design. I first built a barn with a cupola with openable windows at top of the open beam ceiling with a openable door to the street level below my second floor office. That worked so when we built the house we did the same thing. Get significant air flow with a window open and the cupola windows open. Since it worked so well in the barn and house I figured it might work in the van. It did.
Those beds have improved over the years and the bed in the video is so big that you can lie on it perpendicular to the voids that otherwise would "suck you in". Beds are very personal and I think the most important item in an RV.Well,...I think a bed depends on the mattress. For example, check out min 10:40
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jwnzpda3zFg
I'd also like to explore Froli springs:
http://www.nickleatlantic.com/
As for vent(s),...yes,...below the frig is great. Dave Orton has some pics of his on this form. Actually,...it seems that the "heat" of the frig helps lift the cooler air in,...so that a ceiling vent (without a fan) moves the air quite well.
I had watched a video of a fellow putting vents in the side door well,...not sure if I'll try that,...although it does seem to be good second location.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miaimY1ANbU
Thanks for the "woodworking blast gates" pics....I'll have to look into that.
I never tried the Froli system, but wonder how much hype it is, yet many swear by it.
In an off-grid van or RV, cooling is very important and passive cooling, in particular convection plays a big role.
"Convection is heat transfer by mass motion of a fluid such as air or water when the heated fluid is caused to move away from the source of heat, carrying energy with it. Convection above a hot surface occurs because hot air expands, becomes less dense, and rises (wiki)".
That's what you said about rising hot air. The bigger the difference in temperature (between the top and bottom) and the greater the distance between the incoming and outgoing air, the better the convection. One fan (in the roof) improves on it, a second fan at the floor vent probably even more.
Besides getting cooler air in and hot air out, the movement of air makes your skin feel cooler too.
The application of a floor vent in the last video, you mentioned, seems to be working fine and is a good indication that this principle of passive cooling should work. The execution is questionable with these interior vents, which will rust without doubt. But quite interesting nonetheless.
These "blast gates" can be easily connected to a hose that guides the air to the interior location.
Van Williams
<Very obvious difference in interior temperature>I put a 3 1/2" x 4 1/2" hole in the floor of my sold 08 Sprinter just in front of the left rear wheel.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=145056&postcount=9
The results were positive. Where you notice the most difference is when you leave the van parked in the sun. When entered van I immediately know if I forgot to leave the floor hole and the Maxxair vent open. Very obvious difference in interior temperature.
My Maxxair was located at the back of the van maybe 4' further back than the floor hole location so roof opening does not need to be that far away. I think it is important to have the roof opening and not just rely on the front windows. My Transit already has a 4" x 4" floor hole but I have not installed the roof Maxxair fan yet. While I work on the conversion with the driver and passengers glass partially down, the vent is not nearly as effective without the roof opening. Might also be because the slider and rear doors are open which prevents the draft from occurring.
Have you ever measured the actual temperature difference?
<My Maxxair was located at the back of the van maybe 4' further back than the floor hole>
Convection improves with distance and with temperature difference. Forced convection (with fans) can do even more.
By the way, ingenious open/close mechanism!
Van Williams
Me too....a comfortable bed for my van conversion is a very important item. In the next 5 years I might be sleeping on it for 300 plus days.Those beds have improved over the years and the bed in the video is so big that you can lie on it perpendicular to the voids that otherwise would "suck you in". Beds are very personal and I think the most important item in an RV.
I never tried the Froli system, but wonder how much hype it is, yet many swear by it.
Van Williams
A murphy bed would surely be a convenient time saver (as I plan on adding a fitted memory foam topper and sheets for bed use),...however for me, a 6' sofa is a need compliment with the passenger swivel. Yet, like yourself, I refuse to compromise bed comfort,..and thus still exploring options.
Considering page 47 of the "Body and Equipment Mounting Manual FORD TRANSIT 2015 North America"....where did you put the 4"x4" floor vent.My Transit already has a 4" x 4" floor hole but I have not installed the roof Maxxair fan yet. While I work on the conversion with the driver and passengers glass partially down, the vent is not nearly as effective without the roof opening. Might also be because the slider and rear doors are open which prevents the draft from occurring.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2015/2015_Transit_BEMM_v1-0.pdf
The murphy bed came about, when I was working to optimize the design. It maximizes living space and allows me to build in a desk/work area.Me too....a comfortable bed for my van conversion is a very important item. In the next 5 years I might be sleeping on it for 300 plus days.
A murphy bed would surely be a convenient time saver (as I plan on adding a fitted memory foam topper and sheets for bed use),...however for me, a 6' sofa is a need compliment with the passenger swivel. Yet, like yourself, I refuse to compromise bed comfort,..and thus still exploring options.
All these ideas are in flux, until the design is finalized.
There are so many good ideas floating around, that like you, I can change my mind anytime.
Currently, the style of the interior of the van is my main concern. The classical style with so-called oak cabinets and alike, don't do it for me anymore. A bold, colorful modern finish would do the job for me, but the right combination colors and materials is still an unreachable goal.
Van Williams
Yes,...I know what you mean. I've been scrolling through color palettes myselfCurrently, the style of the interior of the van is my main concern. The classical style with so-called oak cabinets and alike, don't do it for me anymore. A bold, colorful modern finish would do the job for me, but the right combination colors and materials is still an unreachable goal.
Van Williams
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Have never measured temperatures.<Very obvious difference in interior temperature>
Have you ever measured the actual temperature difference?
<My Maxxair was located at the back of the van maybe 4' further back than the floor hole>
Convection improves with distance and with temperature difference. Forced convection (with fans) can do even more.
By the way, ingenious open/close mechanism!
Van Williams
That was my second try for the 90 degree rope turn. First try was a pulley instead of the 1/2" conduit 90. Rope would pop off the pulley so I then changed to the conduit. If you ask me I think it is very Rube Goldburg, but it does work very well.
I seldom powered the Maxxair roof vent. Depends on your climate how well the hole will work.
I have the BEMM manual but did not read it for the hole location. Only one good place for it.Considering page 47 of the "Body and Equipment Mounting Manual FORD TRANSIT 2015 North America"....where did you put the 4"x4" floor vent.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2015/2015_Transit_BEMM_v1-0.pdf
If you look under van there are two 3 1/2" wide beams perpendicular to the frame rails in front of the left rear wheel front spring bolt. Centerline of one is 14" in front of the bolt and the second one is 10 1/2" further forward. Hole is located between those two beams.
Inside the hole is 3 3/4" from the interior wall and approx. 1 1/2" in front of the structural pillar (toward driver)
I would post pictures and a drawing but this site does not allow me to do that because I have used up my data allotment. Dumb!
I will use a variation of a Murphy bed. Bed platform is located across van at the back at 29" elevation. It is 54" wide and 74" long. The van has two 18 1/2" high bench seats on each side over the wheel wells. A removable table is bolted to the 80/20 floor between the two bench seats to create a eating area for 4 people. The bed platform is created by four hinged 27" wide panels that swing down from a vertical storage location to sit horizontal on top of the table. Back two down for one person platform and all four down for two people. "Mattress" is four 2 1/2" x 70" REI self inflating camp pads. Two for each person. Comfortable bed. When traveling with two people the two front "half Murphy" beds are stored vertical during the day so there is a table for two people. The bedding is simply lifted up and placed on the back bed.Me too....a comfortable bed for my van conversion is a very important item. In the next 5 years I might be sleeping on it for 300 plus days.
A murphy bed would surely be a convenient time saver (as I plan on adding a fitted memory foam topper and sheets for bed use),...however for me, a 6' sofa is a need compliment with the passenger swivel. Yet, like yourself, I refuse to compromise bed comfort,..and thus still exploring options.
The Sprinter for sale post had pictures of the interior.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=328769&postcount=5
The Sprinter had a similar bed design but used removable panels between the table and the van side walls. The Transit will look similar but the bed panels will be stored vertical against van side walls hinged at the bottom edge.
The 80/20 with cherry wood panels looks good (to me) so Transit will be the same.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=328769&postcount=5
The Sprinter had a similar bed design but used removable panels between the table and the van side walls. The Transit will look similar but the bed panels will be stored vertical against van side walls hinged at the bottom edge.
The 80/20 with cherry wood panels looks good (to me) so Transit will be the same.
Good looking van and well-finished.The Sprinter had a similar bed design but used removable panels between the table and the van side walls. The Transit will look similar but the bed panels will be stored vertical against van side walls hinged at the bottom edge.
The 80/20 with cherry wood panels looks good (to me) so Transit will be the same.
What kind of practical differences do you see between the Sprinter and Transit, for you to switch brands?
For me it was primarily the diesel engine and and the interior width at eye level, talking about the MB Sprinter.
Van Williams
There were multiple reasons:Good looking van and well-finished.
What kind of practical differences do you see between the Sprinter and Transit, for you to switch brands?
For me it was primarily the diesel engine and and the interior width at eye level, talking about the MB Sprinter.
Van Williams
1. After two failures at 10,000 miles and at 20,000 miles I lost confidence that I would always get to my destination. A failure can happen many miles from a Sprinter service location. Hope Ford will be more reliable and/or there are a lot more locations that can fix it at far less cost.
2. I had a list of about 100 changes/improvements that I would do on a second conversion. Sprinter conversion worked very well but I can make it better on the second try.
3. I do not care for the diesel emission hardware/software that is now required on a new diesel. I bought gas.
4. The Transit drives and handles much better. EB makes it fun to drive.
5. The interior width is about the same for Sprinter and Transit. The conversion length is within 1". A major mistake on the Sprinter was assuming that sleeping a bit diagonal would be OK. It was not. I will change the bed platform design to get a 74" bed length in the Transit vs the 70" bed length in the Sprinter. The changes will be less insulation at the ends of the bed and a revised bed design. I am 5'-10" and measure 73 1/2" top of head to tip of toes when sleeping on stomach.
The major reasons were reliability, maintenance costs and availability of competent service locations. Jury is still out as far as Transit reliability, but so far it appears that it will be good. Very few reliability comments on this forum vs many reliability comments on Sprinter forum. Time will give the answer.
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