[EL34xyz]

Got some more stuff done on the van conversion today

I custom cut two ceiling panels and applied Frost king insulation to the backs

This is how I am going to do the whole ceiling
So the metal roof has one layer of Bituthene 3000
Then a layer of Frost king insulation is applied to the Bituthene
Then all the seams are taped up with 3M aluminum HVAC tape

The ceiling panels are custom cut from these 4' x 8' sheets at Lowes
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DPI-47-75-in-x-7-98-ft-Smooth-White-Panelboard-Hardboard-Wall-Panel/3015239

Then a layer of frost king is applied to the backs of the ceiling panels

There is an air gap between the ceiling panels and the roof
I can always add more insulation into that air gap if I need to

Here's the video link for conversion video #2
You won't see all the custom notes I added to the video on a mobile device

Here's is the link for video #1 on the forum
http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...eos/36514-video-my-transit-rv-conversion.html

 

[tthrsn]

... Here's the video link for conversion video #2 ...

Nice informative video. Your image of the B pillar with the trim removed saved me the trouble of removing mine. Thanks.

 

[EL34xyz]

Nice informative video. Your image of the B pillar with the trim removed saved me the trouble of removing mine. Thanks.

I removed that trim trying to see if I could route that big #8 gauge wire through the lower pillar.
When I pulled those two black rubber plugs (In the red boxes), I could see the gas filler neck inside that lower section

The lower pillar is sealed off from the upper pillar
I will have to figure out a better way to route my wire for rear power

See this screen shot from the video
Kind of blurry, but it's useful

 

[keweenawbee]

Having not done a thing to my van yet…..are you using existing holes/inserts for those ceiling panels, using self-taping screws or drilling right though the panels first for optimum alignment for the screws to go in? Sorry pretty basic question, I can't dive into this for awhile. Sure seems like a money saver (those panels) over what you can buy out there.

 

[EL34xyz]

Having not done a thing to my van yet…..are you using existing holes/inserts for those ceiling panels, using self-taping screws or drilling right though the panels first for optimum alignment for the screws to go in? Sorry pretty basic question, I can't dive into this for awhile. Sure seems like a money saver (those panels) over what you can buy out there.

Not using any existing holes, there is nothing usable for small sheet metal screws

I clamped the panels in place
Then drilled 3/32 holes through the panels into the roof cross members where I wanted the screws
I then screwed in sheet metal screws that made their own threads in the 3/32 inch holes

I got the screws at lowes
They have oversized flattened heads, like a truss head screw
They do not stick out far and the oversized head clamps the panels nicely

 

[Michael Ophus]

be ready for a possible mess, i too was searching for a low cost sound deadener and bought a similar product from home depot but it had aluminum foil on the exposed side, i bought it to quiet down the wheel wells. i had half a roll left over so i cut assorted size pieces to stick on large sections of sheet metal like ford did. i removed a panel on the wall the other day and noticed a 12 inch square of the bituthene like stuff slid down the wall 2 inches, i guess from mississippi's hot summer sun melting the asphalt type glue. my deadener choice my be different then yours but they sound like they may be the same stuff by 2 different manufactures, mines all hidden behind wall panels so no one will ever see the mess it may turn into unless i sell the van.

 

[EL34xyz]

Thanks for the info
Anywhere that I am using the Bituthene, it gets covered over with the frost king insulation then the seams get taped with aluminum HVAC tape

The frost king stuff is very sticky
Hopefully it will hold everything in place
I can also use the hvac tape on the edges of the Bituthene before covering it up

I can pop a wall panel off now and then to have a look to see how it all is holding up

 

[EL34xyz]

Here's a diagram and info on how I am doing the ceiling

I am using not the frost king on the floor or anywhere it can be compressed
Only ceiling and walls

The Frost king is only R3, but I am using a couple layers with an air gap on the ceiling
I still have an air gap that I can filled if I need to
Have to test it and see how it works first

This is a diagram of how the ceiling is constructed
Note that the foil side on the frost king faces into the air gap from above and below

Sheet metal skin
Bituthene
Frost King
Air gap
Frost King
1/8th inch thick interior panel

 

[JLEE]

Here's a diagram and info on how I am doing the ceiling

I am using not the frost king on the floor or anywhere it can be compressed
Only ceiling and walls

The Frost king is only R3, but I am using a couple layers with an air gap on the ceiling
I still have an air gap that I can filled if I need to
Have to test it and see how it works first

This is a diagram of how the ceiling is constructed
Note that the foil side on the frost king faces into the air gap from above and below

Sheet metal skin
Bituthene
Frost King
Air gap
Frost King
1/8th inch thick interior panel

Im afraid the bituthene (or the like) will either smell like a roof, or yes melt in the heat into goop causing a mess. Heat caused...
I, too want to deaden the road noise but find noico or dyna to be quite expensive.
Ive read that all that is needed to quiet panel road is a square on each panel-The subsequent insulation/liners will quiet it even more.
?

 

[impatient]

Here's a diagram and info on how I am doing the ceiling

I am using not the frost king on the floor or anywhere it can be compressed
Only ceiling and walls

The Frost king is only R3, but I am using a couple layers with an air gap on the ceiling
I still have an air gap that I can filled if I need to
Have to test it and see how it works first

This is a diagram of how the ceiling is constructed
Note that the foil side on the frost king faces into the air gap from above and below

Sheet metal skin
Bituthene
Frost King
Air gap
Frost King
1/8th inch thick interior panel

What is the Frost King stuff you reference? Is it this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

 

[EL34xyz]

What is the Frost King stuff you reference? Is it this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

Yep, that's it

I have two layers of it as shown in the diagram below

 

[BabyBuffy]

Thanks for the info
Anywhere that I am using the Bituthene, it gets covered over with the frost king insulation then the seams get taped with aluminum HVAC tape

The frost king stuff is very sticky
Hopefully it will hold everything in place
I can also use the hvac tape on the edges of the Bituthene before covering it up

I can pop a wall panel off now and then to have a look to see how it all is holding up

Now that your van has probably been put to the test heat-wise what can you report about the performance of Bituthene - smell and adherence to hot panels?

 

[BabyBuffy]

Bituthene

Thanks for the info
Anywhere that I am using the Bituthene, it gets covered over with the frost king insulation then the seams get taped with aluminum HVAC tape

The frost king stuff is very sticky
Hopefully it will hold everything in place
I can also use the hvac tape on the edges of the Bituthene before covering it up

I can pop a wall panel off now and then to have a look to see how it all is holding up

Now that your van has probably been put to the test heat-wise what can you report about the performance of Bituthene - smell and adherence to hot panels?

 

[EL34xyz]

Now that your van has probably been put to the test heat-wise what can you report about the performance of Bituthene - smell and adherence to hot panels?

I am happy to report that there is zero odor inside the van
The insulation and air gap scheme has been great so far

After 1pm in the afternoon, the van is in full sun
I have gone out and opened the van up and it is still holding cool air from cooling down and night

In late afternoon, it does get warm inside but the walls and ceiling are cool to the touch
The main source of the heat entering the van are the windshield reflectix panels
The windshield panels heat up and you can feel warm/hot air coming from the panels

The other heat source are the two rear doors
The metal is conducting heat and transferring it inside
You can put your hand on the inside of the rear doors and feel that they are very warm
I will figure out something to do to the doors

One interesting thing I did to the side sliding door was to cover the inside in black sticky back felt
That has worked great by stopped thermal transfer from the metal skin

I have my maxxair fan set to come on automatically and pull air in from the two front windows
That works great by pulling in fresh air and exhausting warm air up top

So that's my summer time report on how well the van insulation and sound proofing has worked out so far

 

[troy_audi0]

very nice

 

[EL34xyz]

Thanks all
This post was Video #2
Here is video #5