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    1. · Registered
      2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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      5,278 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #150 ·
      Fuse block? Hm. I have this one as our 24VDC bar. And this fuse block was the old one we used (sitting in my garage - free if you want it). It has been replaced with this smaller fuse block (chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).

      Here's how that 12VDC setup looked previously:


      and here's how it looks now:


      and here's how it actually looks with the panel on it. ;)
       
    2. · Registered
      2022 T350HD #11000 Avalanche Gray
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      901 Posts
      Fuse block? Hm. I have this one as our 24VDC bar. And this fuse block was the old one we used (sitting in my garage - free if you want it). It has been replaced with this smaller fuse block (chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).

      Here's how that 12VDC setup looked previously:
      View attachment 166374

      and here's how it looks now:
      View attachment 166375

      and here's how it actually looks with the panel on it. ;)
      View attachment 166376
      I see heat pads for water and batteries. Which pads are you using? I know they do not cost much and have thought about adding them to my build.
       
    1. · Registered
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      2,072 Posts
      Slow down, remember the ELI5 part! :)

      Blue Sea fuse block, recommend me one? I'm thinking this one:

      As for wires, what gage, brand is recommended? Other?
      Please don't skip the steps:

      1.a - Go to the store in the paint section and buy some of that green painters tape. Get the roll that is about 2 inches wide.

      1.b - Cut off a piece that is ~ 3 inches long.

      1.c - Put it on the wall of the van

      1.d - Use a pen to write - 120 vac outlet . Repeat 3 times

      1.e - use a similar size piece of tape and put it on the wall

      1.f - Use a pen to write - 12 volt outlet - repeat 5 times

      1.g - Do the same thing for some USB outlets

      ___

      When you have completed this, you are ready to start thinking about buying parts - but not yet
       
    1. · Registered
      2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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      5,278 Posts
      ...
      Thanks… I created a digram and list of items I plan to install. Any help creat the shopping list of items needed including wire gauges and what not?
      Sure. Move the GZ to the driver's side since that's where the power-source from the van is (off the side of the driver's seat) AND that's where your fridge is. Then just use the 12VDC power cord that comes with the fridge directly into the GZ or pretty much straight off of a fuse-block (it has a built-in fuse, so fuse not technically necessary). Then don't bother with an outlet if you only want one - you'll have it directly in the GZ. Or just run one of these plugged in.

      Everything else is pretty low draw and not technically difficult. Put your fuse block on that same driver's side. Run #10 good-quality speaker-wire or SOOW (depending how you want to route it) for the 12VDC outlets in case you pull some power (though #10 isn't enough to run the fridge on a long run - too much voltage drop).

      Puck lights, #14 or even #16 or #18 pairs are fine - low power per puck. Pull them back and tie them to each other then into a controller. I like these controllers - you can run multiple controllers with one RF remote (or multiple RF remotes). Or you can run an RGB controller and get three circuits of control for the price of one.

      Here's three fuse block alternatives that I have used (only speaking for what I've used):

      Also an option to run one of those on the driver's side and another on the passenger side. If you go that route, the smaller ones make plenty of sense.

      I'd skip the hard-wired switches and go RF and IR remotes for the fan and the lights. We stick them to the walls with magnets. And then even less need for anything on the passenger side.

      Oh... puck lights. These work.
       
    2. · Registered
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      50 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #13 ·
      Sure. Move the GZ to the driver's side since that's where the power-source from the van is (off the side of the driver's seat) AND that's where your fridge is. Then just use the 12VDC power cord that comes with the fridge directly into the GZ or pretty much straight off of a fuse-block (it has a built-in fuse, so fuse not technically necessary). Then don't bother with an outlet if you only want one - you'll have it directly in the GZ. Or just run one of these plugged in.

      Everything else is pretty low draw and not technically difficult. Put your fuse block on that same driver's side. Run #10 good-quality speaker-wire or SOOW (depending how you want to route it) for the 12VDC outlets in case you pull some power (though #10 isn't enough to run the fridge on a long run - too much voltage drop).

      Puck lights, #14 or even #16 or #18 pairs are fine - low power per puck. Pull them back and tie them to each other then into a controller. I like these controllers - you can run multiple controllers with one RF remote (or multiple RF remotes). Or you can run an RGB controller and get three circuits of control for the price of one.

      Here's three fuse block alternatives that I have used (only speaking for what I've used):

      Also an option to run one of those on the driver's side and another on the passenger side. If you go that route, the smaller ones make plenty of sense.

      I'd skip the hard-wired switches and go RF and IR remotes for the fan and the lights. We stick them to the walls with magnets. And then even less need for anything on the passenger side.

      Oh... puck lights. These work.
      All great info.
      I bought:
      8 puck lights, 12 V, 3W
      Blue Sea ST ATO/ATC Fuse Block

      What gauge wire should I use to run these in parallel?
      What size fuse amp should I use?

      ALso any suggestions on a conduit or cover to protect the wire as it runs through behind the walls?

      Thanks,
       
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