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    1. · Registered
      Joined
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      224 Posts
      Mystery solved. "A friend" took "his" Link module apart and traced the wires. Luckily they were color coded. If you're looking straight at the back of the module the terminal on the right (adjacent to the air vent) is the positive terminal.



      Fired the engine up, 450 watts of input at idle, no magic smoke. Huzzah.


      Need to make your own cable, This is what I used

      EC8 connectors (only need the terminals, the plastic housing doesn't fit with GZ's proprietary boot):

      The EC8 connectors just get soldered on, very easy to do, use some shrink wrap to protect the ends and make your own protective boot.

      I used 4AWG for the GZ yeti 1000 that pulls 55 amps for ~17 feet of cable span:

      If you have a GZ 1400 or 3000 that will pull more amps, or need a longer cable span, you may need a different gauge cable. Check Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems before buying your cable, so you don't burn down your van.

      Here is the ring terminal I used: IF you don't want to own a whole package of them, you can buy these at most autoparts or welding supply stores.
      The ring terminal fits on the CCP, use a washer and a 5mm nut to secure it.

      Keep in mind the CCP is live when the vehicle is off. Be careful not to touch the other end to any metal in the van.

      Make sure the Link is in vehicle mode, so it doesn't drain your battery.
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      113 Posts
      Mystery solved. "A friend" took "his" Link module apart and traced the wires. Luckily they were color coded. If you're looking straight at the back of the module the terminal on the right (adjacent to the air vent) is the positive terminal.







      Fired the engine up, 450 watts of input at idle, no magic smoke. Huzzah.


      Need to make your own cable, This is what I used

      EC8 connectors (only need the terminals, the plastic housing doesn't fit with GZ's proprietary boot):

      The EC8 connectors just get soldered on, very easy to do, use some shrink wrap to protect the ends and make your own protective boot.

      I used 4AWG for the GZ yeti 1000 that pulls 55 amps for ~17 feet of cable span:

      If you have a GZ 1400 or 3000 that will pull more amps, or need a longer cable span, you may need a different gauge cable. Check Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems before buying your cable, so you don't burn down your van.

      Here is the ring terminal I used: IF you don't want to own a whole package of them, you can buy these at most autoparts or welding supply stores.
      The ring terminal fits on the CCP, use a washer and a 5mm nut to secure it.

      Keep in mind the CCP is live when the vehicle is off. Be careful not to touch the other end to any metal in the van.

      Make sure the Link is in vehicle mode, so it doesn't drain your battery.
      Thanks so much for this. I’ve been waiting for 5weeks for GZ to resume selling the EC8 to ring terminal connector. (I believe I understand they are being redesigned with a mechanical clip to prevent jiggling loose). Tired of waiting.

      Also, did you ever find out if plugging solar into the front of the Link will trickle charge the starter battery? That would be a nice feature.
       
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