Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks

Name: Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks
Price: 41.09 USD

Schwipt · May 21, 2017

Finishing up my electrical system, and thought i would seek some last minute confirmation/advice.

My diagram: http://imgur.com/a/hyo2p + attached

parts:

Ctek d250s dual : http://smartercharger.com/products/dcdc/ctek-d250s-dual/

fuse box : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

30 A fuse + holder : https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-...id=1495317258&sr=8-4&keywords=30+amp+fuse+anl

Battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB...F8&qid=1495317559&sr=8-1&keywords=agm+battery

My questions are:
1) Do I have the correct fuse and wire sizes (for the lights they have 22 gauge already on them so I would just use the same to go to the fuse box (with a switch to turn them on/off)) **More stuff will be run off the fuse box, just put the lights in for an example to make sure i understand correctly how to size the fuse and wires (Using https://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761 as a basis for Gauge and Max Amps)

2) the inverter/charger is a down the road install disregard it unless you have some input on it. *Might just go with a smart charger and separate inverter - haven't priced shopped them yet

3) Any thoughts on the battery? I would prefer sealed over the 6v golf cart batteries and this seems to be a good price.

4) any recommendations on meters to monitor the battery charge/draw etc?

Thanks for any input!

bitburger · Mar 25, 2020

I bought a Yeti 3000 for my van and wanted to provide some feedback.

Summary: Convenient, compact, expensive

I bought the Yeti 3000 at REI using the 20% off coupon. At the same time I bought the link module.
Note that you will also need to buy the cable kit to wire it up to the alternator.

It's charged two ways, either using the single 60A CCP via the Link module or, when parked, the ability the charge from shore power. This seems to work well for my situation because I generally move campsites each night and don't like to park and stay at a location.

While the Goal Zero Link cable is quite short (2 feet?), it will reach to the Yeti if you use the CCP on the driver's seat and have the Yeti placed immediately behind the driver seat which isn't a bad location. The CCP is a bit awkward to access but otherwise is a short and easy install.
Note you will need to buy the nuts for the CCP and ground point.

Later, I installed the Yeti in a cabinet, both to clean up the cabling as well as making it harder to steal. I took off the wheels and bolted some 8020 around it so a thief would need to be just slightly more determined than the opportunistic type.

I installed this on the rear bumper as shown by others in the forum.
NOCO power plug inlet and extension cord
It was easy to install and looks good. The extension cable routes up through the van body without any new holes. I plugged it into an octopus to get multiple shore power plugs inside the van.

When shore power is available, I can plug in two wall chargers (both included in the 3000) which will recharge the 3000 if I leave it overnight. If we are on a longer trips, the captain want a hot shower every couple days so we will hit a campground and usually get shore power there.

From an output perspective, you will need to push a button to use the 120V ports, or another button to use the USB ports, or (finally) another button to use the 12V ports. You can easily see the continuous drain from the 120V inverter even if you don't have anything plugged in.
Likewise you see a smaller draw if you open up the USB ports (smaller inverter) even when you don't have anything plugged in.
If you leave the buttons pushed, they will slowly drain the battery due to the inverter load.
There is no draw on the 12V outlets if there is nothing plugged in because there is no inverter used.

In a previous van I had some trouble figuring out what was draining the battery so I like these buttons to effectively disconnect the battery from any loads.

Over the holidays, I parked it for 2+ months, turning off the wifi and lighted panel on the front, and it held its charge without any loss.

I used this cable
Anderson to ring cable
to go to a Blue Sea distribution
and then all my 12V accessories get fed through that.
Super easy and pretty clean.

The iPhone app is convenient since I have it buried in a cabinet.

The 3000 manual is here.

Irritations:
Besides the cost which was known at the start but gets reinforced every time you buy a cable, I was disappointed that you can't install the Link module (alternator charging) at the same time as the MTTP (solar charging) module. While there are two accessory slots in the Yeti 3000, both theses modules need to occupy the right accessory slot. In my perfect world, I'd have both installed so if I decided to park in a field for a week I could charge with solar. Now I just have the MPPT module sitting in a box.
At some point, if I went solar, it would take me ~15 minutes or so to switch the modules.

I can see why they are coming out with a more powerful inverter for the newer version of the 3000. At times, the 3000 won't power some items like an old circular saw due to the peak load on start. We need to be somewhat careful as I add items like a blender, microwave or toaster oven.

Knarfly · Mar 26, 2020

bitburger said:
I bought a Yeti 3000 for my van and wanted to provide some feedback.

I used this cable
Anderson to ring cable
to go to a Blue Sea distribution
and then all my 12V accessories get fed through that.
Super easy and pretty clean.

I like this approach! Do you have any pictures you can share?

I'm wondering if there is a way I can wire it up so that my cooler/fan can run on car 12v when driving and/or when the YETI is not installed, but then off YETI when parked, without changing the outlet the device is plugged into?

bitburger · Apr 15, 2020

Knarfly said:
I like this approach! Do you have any pictures you can share?

I'm wondering if there is a way I can wire it up so that my cooler/fan can run on car 12v when driving and/or when the YETI is not installed, but then off YETI when parked, without changing the outlet the device is plugged into?

I don't have great pics but I followed the broad outline on wplate on this forum. He put together a useful video here youtube video

I used this cable from the 12V output on my Yeti to the BlueSky Fuse block. Then I attach all my 12V appliances to this fusebox. While the pic doesn't show all that attached devices, they include USB charges, Maxxfan, lights.

lucienpsmith · Dec 23, 2020

Correct.

I started with a power strip into the GZ when parked at a remote location, and then when at a location that I could run an extension cord to a building, I would unplug the power strip from the GZ and then plugin the power strip into the extension cord plugged into a building.

I wanted to automate it so that when I had access to outside electricity (from a building, etc), I could just plug one end of the extension cord to the building and the other into an inlet at my rear bumper and all my power needs would be directly satisfied from that building.

It is fairly common for people to setup their system so that any AC outlets/powerstrips inside the van get power from the GoalZero (house) system, and then when you have access to outside electricity (shore power) to have those AC outlets/powerstrips instead get their power from shore power.

So, I inside the van I have a DC fuseblock and I have an AC distribution panel that powers the AC outlets (like a powerstrip) and DC accessories.

By default, these are all powered by the GoalZero (DC output & AC output on the front of the GZ). When I have access to outside electricity (e.g. running an extension cord to a building), my system is setup so that it senses that and automatically switches the DC fuseblock and AC distribution panel to use the power from the outside electricity instead.

Here are some of the items from my build:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153EYTO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DHT7X2
Bussmann HEB-AA Tron In-line Breakaway Fuse Holder - - Amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXNUY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6132JR
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KDZSQ11
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...Function-Outlet-White-R92-AGTR1-0KW/206804820
https://www.goalzero.com/shop/archive-accessories/yeti-fast-charge-25-amp-power-supply
https://www.goalzero.com/shop/yeti-accessories/yeti-12v-car-charging-cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321508054214
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW
https://www.goalzero.com/shop/mountable-solar-panels/boulder-100-solar-panel/

Again, lot's of people have been doing similar using different components. But hopefully you get the idea of what I did in my van.

Sandman said:
Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Without shore power, the only way to have an AC outlet in the van is by running it from an inverter, correct. In my case I'm using a sort of extension cord that looks like an outlet on one end but is plugged into the GZ inverter outlet on the other.

Conference Recessed Power Strip Socket 9.8Ft Cord,Desktop Power Grommet Power Strip with 2-Outlet & 2 USB Ports

Not sure what a power brick is ,does that feed your 12v fuse block when you have shore power?

gregoryx · Jan 29, 2022

Fuse block? Hm. I have this one as our 24VDC bar. And this fuse block was the old one we used (sitting in my garage - free if you want it). It has been replaced with this smaller fuse block (chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).

Here's how that 12VDC setup looked previously:

and here's how it looks now:

and here's how it actually looks with the panel on it.

Brandon · Jan 29, 2022

gregoryx said:
Fuse block? Hm. I have this one as our 24VDC bar. And this fuse block was the old one we used (sitting in my garage - free if you want it). It has been replaced with this smaller fuse block (chosen for size and layout plus the lighted "bad fuse" function) and this relay / fuse block (chosen to get the relay switch setup and nice to have lighted "bad fuse" functions and a good layout).

Here's how that 12VDC setup looked previously:
View attachment 166374

and here's how it looks now:
View attachment 166375

and here's how it actually looks with the panel on it.
View attachment 166376

I see heat pads for water and batteries. Which pads are you using? I know they do not cost much and have thought about adding them to my build.

toadwbg · Nov 28, 2021

takedown said:
Look forward to hearing how you like it. Seems like a great solution if it is reliable.

Im working in supplying power from the CCP2. Will be using an inverter to supply 110V power to the Bluetti, up to 500W. Using the 12V cigarette lighter power is weak sauce for charging with van running topping out about 100W.

Will also be adding 12V power distribution to several areas with a Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits. This will power my roof fan, some lights, water pump, some small 12V appliances like a fridge, USB charge points around the van.

I’m planning the layout in the van right now to figure out exact where everything will be located and route nicely.

Plan to add solar in the spring. Will probably go with 2-3 200Watt panels in series.

gregoryx · Jan 17, 2022

MAH said:
...
Thanks… I created a digram and list of items I plan to install. Any help creat the shopping list of items needed including wire gauges and what not?

Sure. Move the GZ to the driver's side since that's where the power-source from the van is (off the side of the driver's seat) AND that's where your fridge is. Then just use the 12VDC power cord that comes with the fridge directly into the GZ or pretty much straight off of a fuse-block (it has a built-in fuse, so fuse not technically necessary). Then don't bother with an outlet if you only want one - you'll have it directly in the GZ. Or just run one of these plugged in.

Everything else is pretty low draw and not technically difficult. Put your fuse block on that same driver's side. Run #10 good-quality speaker-wire or SOOW (depending how you want to route it) for the 12VDC outlets in case you pull some power (though #10 isn't enough to run the fridge on a long run - too much voltage drop).

Puck lights, #14 or even #16 or #18 pairs are fine - low power per puck. Pull them back and tie them to each other then into a controller. I like these controllers - you can run multiple controllers with one RF remote (or multiple RF remotes). Or you can run an RGB controller and get three circuits of control for the price of one.

Here's three fuse block alternatives that I have used (only speaking for what I've used):

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5026 Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover , 3.32'' x 4.89'' : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included : Automotive

Buy WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included: Fuse Boxes - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Also an option to run one of those on the driver's side and another on the passenger side. If you go that route, the smaller ones make plenty of sense.

I'd skip the hard-wired switches and go RF and IR remotes for the fan and the lights. We stick them to the walls with magnets. And then even less need for anything on the passenger side.

Oh... puck lights. These work.

MAH · Jan 20, 2022

gregoryx said:
Sure. Move the GZ to the driver's side since that's where the power-source from the van is (off the side of the driver's seat) AND that's where your fridge is. Then just use the 12VDC power cord that comes with the fridge directly into the GZ or pretty much straight off of a fuse-block (it has a built-in fuse, so fuse not technically necessary). Then don't bother with an outlet if you only want one - you'll have it directly in the GZ. Or just run one of these plugged in.

Everything else is pretty low draw and not technically difficult. Put your fuse block on that same driver's side. Run #10 good-quality speaker-wire or SOOW (depending how you want to route it) for the 12VDC outlets in case you pull some power (though #10 isn't enough to run the fridge on a long run - too much voltage drop).

Puck lights, #14 or even #16 or #18 pairs are fine - low power per puck. Pull them back and tie them to each other then into a controller. I like these controllers - you can run multiple controllers with one RF remote (or multiple RF remotes). Or you can run an RGB controller and get three circuits of control for the price of one.

Here's three fuse block alternatives that I have used (only speaking for what I've used):

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5026 Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5026 Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover , 3.32'' x 4.89'' : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover , 3.32'' x 4.89'' : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included : Automotive

Buy WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included: Fuse Boxes - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Also an option to run one of those on the driver's side and another on the passenger side. If you go that route, the smaller ones make plenty of sense.

I'd skip the hard-wired switches and go RF and IR remotes for the fan and the lights. We stick them to the walls with magnets. And then even less need for anything on the passenger side.

Oh... puck lights. These work.

All great info.
I bought:
8 puck lights, 12 V, 3W
Blue Sea ST ATO/ATC Fuse Block

What gauge wire should I use to run these in parallel?
What size fuse amp should I use?

ALso any suggestions on a conduit or cover to protect the wire as it runs through behind the walls?

Thanks,

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks

Forum Discussions about this Product

Electrical Wiring Questions (Fuse size/Wire Size) Diagram included

Schwipt

Attachments

Goal Zero Yeti for house electrical?

bitburger

Knarfly

bitburger

Attachments

lucienpsmith

SAUNTUR - 4-season multi-sports rig - 2020 EL HR AWD EB - raise/lower bed, slide-out garage, removable full galley, shower

gregoryx

Brandon

Bluetti AC300

toadwbg

Basic Electrical Wiring in Conversion for Lights, Fan and Refrig

gregoryx

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5026 Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover , 3.32'' x 4.89'' : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included : Automotive

MAH

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5026 Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover , 3.32'' x 4.89'' : Auxiliary Fuse Block : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com: WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included : Automotive

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