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    1. · Registered
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      I'm thinking about pre-wiring the battery to support the link when it becomes available later in the year. My Yeti, is going to be mid way in the back or the all the way in the back. Couple of questions:

      1. Is the link adapter in car mode smart enough to stop draining the battery once it goes below a certain voltage?
      2. I was thinking of attaching something like this on the side of the drivers side. Nice that it also a 50amp fuse on it as well so I don't have to remove the drivers side seat:

      hmm. Apparently, that can be used as a switch. Any other suggestions on a switch combined with a fuse?

      And then run 6swg or 8swg (needs to be able to support 50amp) from there all the way to the goal zero. What sort of the connectors does the link connector come with? How will I attach the 6swg wire to the link?
    1. · Registered
      18 Posts
      I also have the Scopema swivel seats.

      I mounted a panel-mount Blue Sea DC Breaker 60A on the side of the seat pedestal that allows me to remotely 'turn off' my Victron DC-to-DC charger hooked directly to my dual batteries.

      The negative battery cable feeds internal in the seat pedestal nearest the driver side door. I'm not sure what the negative battery wire is rated for (Amps), but I don't see why you couldn't splice in line a 200A? panel-mount breaker on the outside of the seat pedestal for a quick 'turn off'. All wires would stay in the pedestal, and it would be a clean installation. If you need to see a photo, let me know and I can get one tomorrow.

    1. · Premium Member
      2021 R2X high roof long carbonized gray - TURBOCHARGED!
      774 Posts
      @bitburger I'm doing this and getting 700-800+watts input while driving (while connected to the 60amp CCP). 60amps * 14volts = 840 watts. I know alternators run closer to 14.4v, but 800w should be easy to achieve if all the wires are right sized... though the technical spec of the Link is only like 720watts. Absolutely 720 should be the norm for watts in.

      I used almost everything in the GZ kit but I used this 'fuse' instead. Blue Sea circuit breaker It's easy to reset if it trips (no visits to the auto parts store) and I often simply disconnect it (by hitting the red button) to ensure the GZ is disconnected. I wired the house power via that goofy GZ plug so that when the GZ is out of the van, I can simply hook up the house straight to the van. That's when it's super important to be able to quickly disconnect.

      Also, I don't have my GZ in Car mode right now - it's just connected to the van CCP2 (larger bolt/higher amps) and it takes what it needs. The van cuts off the GZ after like 20 minutes after shut down. Doing it that way gets around the whole 'GZ isn't detecting a running engine because of the smart alternator' situation.

      You got the right grounding location - there are a few options of bolts in things, but the correct option already has something using the ground, so just stack it on that.

      If you want photos of anything on my setup, lemme know - I should probably take some anyway, since I haven't yet.
    1. · Registered
      2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
      5,278 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #16 ·
      ... at work we tried using the breakers as shut offs, which they work majority of the time. But I'd rather not risk it re-engaging while driving. Plus i prefer fuses.
      That was certainly the recommend in the past. FWIW, the Blue Sea breakers come in two variations: one is designed to be an on/off as well, the other is not. 187 series are described thus: "circuit breaker combines switching and circuit protection into a single device." Which is nice.

      When it comes to less points of failure, i try and avoid short jumpers. (1 wire and 2 crimped connectors) example between your breaker/disconnect and bus bar in your main storage. Any where i can i'll do metal to metal. (ex my shut/disconnect)
      Ah. I see what you mean. That's far more about making things fit in the space I allocate than the perfect ideal. Similar to the Lynx setup, it seemed great on the surface; but it's a bulky item that would mandate lots of changes in the layout of the electrical box. Cables don't suffer that problem, so cables it is. Maintainable (and might /need/ maintenance) but easy to route in a small space.

      I did think about running direct off CCP1 for a second path to the 12v, but i wanted to keep my amp draw under 250a on the dual alternator setup, can't find what the duty cycle rating is. So i want to stay below 50% (read the motor takes ~85a) so that leaves 165a.
      Total non-issue. CCP1 is never in use unless that A/B is switched - meaning house system is down... which it never has been yet. CCP2 only charges the house batteries (through the Multiplus) and it's adjustable from under 1kW to 2kW or so; and it's the backup if the house systems is down. But if the house system were DOWN and I need to rely on CCP2 for 120VAC /and/ CCP1 for 12VDC, I'd hardly worry about the load for that limited period of time. Hope that makes sense. There's theory and practice... they are never the same.

      Only other question i had was why dual breakers on the solar instead of one dual pole single throw?
      No good answer on that one. I think I did two of them on the old van and had heard of people having issues with the ground not working as expected so I put in two. And replicated that on this one. Funnier part is that I think one of them is failing... which reminded me that I /think/ that happened on the old rig as well. I should know better than to use the cheap-o parts (they're currently crappy $10 units). So I'll be changing at least one of them to a nice Blue Sea CB; not sure if I'll actually do both or just skip the second one. (Answering your post as well, @orton. Not /always/ a good reason for things. 🤷‍♀️)

      What size is your vehicle powered inverter? What is the maximum amps you have pulled from the Transit system?
      Pretty sure you've gone out of your way to criticize the vehicle inverter method I'm using multiple times. I'm sure you've lost track, though. 😏 😄

      But, heck.... let's do it again. It's a PSW 2.2kW rated inverter. I generally run it at about 1.3kW - seems to stay cool and quiet at that rate. And with two 250A alternators (and the dual batteries to back it up on engine-off stops), it seems to work great even at idle (or off). I've pushed it all the way to 18A @ 120VAC on the Multiplus charger side - which ultimately pops the 150A @ 12VDC breaker after a bit, of course. (Caught some crap here for that not being possible.. but it is exactly how it happened.)

      FWIW, the charger will only put 70A @ 24VDC (~1.9kW @ ~27VDC charge rate) but the additional power is routed to loads, of course, when running higher. So the max I've pulled for any given period was ~180A - and only for a relatively short while... it popped the 150A breaker after a few minutes; thankfully never popped the 175A fuse. But, of course, I did kill the 190A relay eventually... maybe not a coincidence? 🤔

      One addition I did for the vehicle powered inverter is to make it automatic start/stop with the engine start/stop. With Sprinter build I disliked having to remember to restart the inverter at every engine restart. Added a tie delay relay to provide automatic start/stop.
      Good news with the CCP2 setup is it kills it eventually if I forget. I've considered using a relay in the Victron system (there are relays in the Multiplus and in the Cerbo GX) but ultimately, just using the ON switch and knowing that the van will take care of it if I forget to turn it off is sufficient. If I ever decide to take the time... the Cerbo sends messages on low truck voltage and /could/ have the relay automatically shut off if I wanted. Just doesn't seem to matter thus far.

      So do you have only one AC circuit. Drawing shows 2 wires coming off of the Multiplus, which was why I asked about any settings to enable that on the second connection to still run from battery when not connected to "shore" power.
      Correct. I considered splitting it with the Multiplus, but - as you know - the second one is only live with shore-power. Only reason it's two separate GFCIs off the Multiplus is the old redundancy thing. If one of them fails, I have a couple extension cords and can plug things in to the other leg if I'm out. That happened when the dish-soap killed an outlet... and that's why there's two separate GFCI circuits now. LOL

      If I find/have a convenient spot for a couple breakers, I'd probably install them... as I mentioned, they're in the garage with a lot of other stuff that didn't get used in this build. :rolleyes:

      FWIW - I came across a nice simple spreadsheet on Explorist Life on YT shows that documents consolidation of wire sizing and that looks useful for planning/purchasing/as built reference. It's in the video titled "Planning the Electrical System in our Ford Transit DIY Camper Van"

      Just pulling you leg on that one. IMO calling out the connection points to the vehicle is sufficient . Describing the functionality of the house to vehicle connections in your written document would be good (CCP's, Upfitter, signal wires ...) There are already wiring diagrams for the vehicle. ;) BTW, if you don't already the $40 ebay "fake" CD, it is good and also includes the service manual. Just 2 big .pdfs
      LOL. Man... all my documentation is worthless. I've never had anyone else read it - no matter what. The guy that bought my last van didn't even look at all the documentation until a year later when something went wrong; and then he just called me, basically. But I still try to do /some/ of it... maybe people like you benefit? 😏

      Have you ever posted any photo's of your A/B setup for using CCP1 as a back up? I'd be interested in seeing it.
      Technically, there's photos of most of it in the Electrical post of the build thread; but not specific stuff about it. It's truly simple. Exactly as in the above diagram: 24>12 routes to the A/B; CCP1 goes 50A CB then direct to A/B; A/B goes to the two 12VDC fuse panels (one relay / fuse). That's it. 🤷‍♀️

      Here's the labels on the "truck side" CCP1 and CCP2 identifying where they go.

      no shore power?
      Of course! But nothing fancy. It's so rare that we use actual shore power that we just route an extension cord through the window and swap it with the truck-inverter input. Then change the charge rate to whatever is preferred. Just that simple. The "inlet" on the right is using a one-foot connection to that middle outlet normally. Pull out the right plug and plug in an extension cord. I think we've done it 3-4 times total.
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