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    1. · Registered
      2018 350 XLT 3.5L
      Joined
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      296 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #44 ·
      Vey nice work. Any other tips on ordering parts to build and fasten a ceiling frame in a 2019 Passenger wagon? Tnutz vs 80/20? Did you build the overhead cabinets?
      Tnutz is cheaper by far. Make sure you know how to install a rivnut, I had one spin and had to drill it out which was not fun on the ceiling rib. If you're going to run the rail up to the very front rib above the driver/passenger seat you can order the 40mm dynamic pivot hinge from Tnutz as well. It's less than half the price of 8020 and the size difference isn't noticeable from the 15 series extrusion (38mm). The very front rib holes don't align on the extrusion, they're narrower, so I used a 90 degree corner bracket and drilled my own holes.

      When you install the long rail it will be at an angle like the curve of the roof, the cross member helps pull them together. I used a counterbore and anchor fastener assembly. Dimension needs to be pretty exact for that fastener. I suggest just getting the long rails up before ordering the cross members, measure accounting for them to be pushed square. Mine was 36-13/16" but I can't guarantee yours will be the same. I would advise thru-bolting the rail to the ceiling. I just used an access hole with the head of the bolt under the top side t-slot and it was a challenge to get up and align. You will need a longer bolt then you think because you have the space of the headliner and foam before you can thread it in. I think I used a 2-1/2", but thru bolting would need to be 3-1/2- 4"

      I would also plan any above the headliner work before putting it up (wiring/insulation), I've probably taken down my headliner 10+ times and it isn't a big issue but would have been nice to not have to. You definitely want LED strip lights in the extrusion. I like these 5v ones so I wired to 12v with a 12v to USB step down 9.8ft is almost perfect length and the remote works pointed almost anywhere, the kids like it and it's much better than the puck lights. You can never have enough attachment points up there. Metric eye rings were cheaper for some reason so I ordered these M8 eye rings, with these M8 studs and add some plastic washers so you don't scratch the extrusion a bunch. Studs are a little long, but they were a better deal on amazon. I think that's all I can think of, let me know if you have any more questions.

      Yes I built the overhead cabinets!
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      42 Posts
      Tnutz is cheaper by far. Make sure you know how to install a rivnut, I had one spin and had to drill it out which was not fun on the ceiling rib. If you're going to run the rail up to the very front rib above the driver/passenger seat you can order the 40mm dynamic pivot hinge from Tnutz as well. It's less than half the price of 8020 and the size difference isn't noticeable from the 15 series extrusion (38mm). The very front rib holes don't align on the extrusion, they're narrower, so I used a 90 degree corner bracket and drilled my own holes.

      When you install the long rail it will be at an angle like the curve of the roof, the cross member helps pull them together. I used a counterbore and anchor fastener assembly. Dimension needs to be pretty exact for that fastener. I suggest just getting the long rails up before ordering the cross members, measure accounting for them to be pushed square. Mine was 36-13/16" but I can't guarantee yours will be the same. I would advise thru-bolting the rail to the ceiling. I just used an access hole with the head of the bolt under the top side t-slot and it was a challenge to get up and align. You will need a longer bolt then you think because you have the space of the headliner and foam before you can thread it in. I think I used a 2-1/2", but thru bolting would need to be 3-1/2- 4"

      I would also plan any above the headliner work before putting it up (wiring/insulation), I've probably taken down my headliner 10+ times and it isn't a big issue but would have been nice to not have to. You definitely want LED strip lights in the extrusion. I like these 5v ones so I wired to 12v with a 12v to USB step down 9.8ft is almost perfect length and the remote works pointed almost anywhere, the kids like it and it's much better than the puck lights. You can never have enough attachment points up there. Metric eye rings were cheaper for some reason so I ordered these M8 eye rings, with these M8 studs and add some plastic washers so you don't scratch the extrusion a bunch. Studs are a little long, but they were a better deal on amazon. I think that's all I can think of, let me know if you have any more questions.

      Yes I built the overhead cabinets!
      This is great info , thanks for your time. I've done quite a bit of riv nutting in this van. Key for me was making sure to use the 25/64 drill bit and go straight in as possible you probably know. I was always a bit worried to have one spin as it must be a PITA. My ceiling has been off once so far to insulate with Havelock wool and install some lighting. Not looking forward to removal replacement again but that extruded frame on the ceiling is exactly what I need. Nice work on the cabinets, I'm stealing that design
       
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