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They have to be pretty exact because they have to line up for L Track installation. If anything is off, it screws up the whole track. If you make the hole too big the rivnuts won't work.If the hole doesn't have to be precisely located, +-.05" estimate, I would locate the position of the hole, then use a center punch to put a small indentation in the hole-to-be's center.
Next, take a Dremel tool, or high speed pneumatic grinder and put on a 1/4" high speed ball-end carbide steel bit. (Not the crappy ones that come in a Dremel took kit.) Grind the bit carefully into center punch indentation and grind a small hole through, or even 1/2 way into the boron UHSS. The heat that is generated by the bit helps to soften the metal enough to create a starter hole. (Don't everheat the grinding bit by pushing too hard, if you change its color, you have destroyed it.)
Then I use a carbide step drill to gradually enlarge the hole to the size you need. (I recently purchased a high quality 12 step drill bit for about $100.00 ) (Anything that is not carbide will dull down very quickly.)
The other approach if you can't budget or don't want to spend the money on high quality bits, purchase less expensive high speed steel cutting drill bits (Not Hobo Freight Ti Nitride coated crap.) knowing they will go dull and plan on throwing them away or sharpening them and only using them on wood or aluminum in the future.
It's funny, per my last note, I was using Cobalt bits (started small and moved up to the larger bit) and it took hours to drill a couple of holes.
On the next 3 holes, I used a cobalt set from Hobo Freight (love that) and started very small, then just went on up the line until I got to 3/8". This also takes forever but it works. Then I hit it with the 25/64 and I am through.
I can't believe how bad this sucks.
Using these:

135° Split Point Cobalt Drill Bit Set, 29 Piece
Amazing deals on this 29Pc 135° Point Cobalt Drill Bit Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.