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fastest 48v charge possible with factory HD dual alternators

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#21 ·
Discussion starter · #22 ·
#23 ·
CCP is always hot. CCP2 has load shedding and times out. They shouldn't be connected. There's plenty to read about the CCPs.

The batteries are wired to act as one storage unit in a starting circuit. Only one CCP is a direct connection. The other is controlled by smart alternator logic.
 
#24 ·
Panman said:
I thought both CCP1 and CCP2 are extensions of the two Ford starter batteries, which are wired in parallel as confirmed in https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/posts/1363417/, with 60a and 175a fuses. So how come they can't be combined after the fuses?

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You can't combine them if you use anything over 100A - under the premise that the load would be evenly split to 50A each (not entirely accurate... but close enough for the discussion). And if you had a 100A load going and if it were perfectly split then CCP2 were to shut off (as it does) then you'd send 100A to CCP1 and pop the fuse.

Due to the way electricity works, you can't designate which leg to use for how-much power... unless you use devices that functionally DO that. So... no, they can't be combined. And they absolutely can't be combined to a single load over 100A.

But there is an "official" version of drawing 200A, which involves connecting directly to the battery terminals then enabling load-shedding as a separate function. So... you could just do that. TPHPM.

Then there's the way @BadWolf is doing it - using each of the options separately for different types of loads. FWIW, that's what I'm planning to do on our new van and if it works well, I'll likely implement it on the old van as well. Basically, get ~50A from CCP1 and ~150A from CCP2. Clearly, that still leaves some on the table, relative to @BadWolf's model; but having the ability to hit 200A is plenty for my expectations.
 
#25 ·
gregoryx said:
that's what I'm planning to do on our new van
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What devices? Looks like 2 of those new 12>24v Victron DC-DC @ 1400w each connected direct to battery might be a good approach ? The little bit I understand from skimming the manual looks like they are highly configurable in terms of input/output/control/timing yadda yadda. With just the on board config it might even be able to mimic load shedding or just use the voltage from CCP2 as the signal to force them on and off (along with other control configs met). Of course it appears to also work with all of the more compliacted powerful Vicrton multi letter acronym network/comms stuff that is in your wheelhouse for even more party tricks. $356 each.
 
#26 ·
Best Approach IMO, if stacking chargers you have to have devices that communicate.

I'm not a fan of DC>AC>DC because when you need power the most its for Cooling/AC and multiplus are space heaters, you have to combat. My Multiplus exhaust goes right into my HVAC intake.

12v - stack up to 4x 50A Orions XS
DC>AC>DC works with 12v mutiplus makes sooo much heat, its a ~1,000btu space heater.

24v - stack upto 4x 1400 Orion XS (they are only 700w output if either side is 12v)
DC>AC>DC works with 24v mutiplus makes heat, its a ~500btu space heater

48v - DC>AC>DC - 5kw multi/quattro and a 5kw inverter connected directly to the bus bar under the driver seat.
When using DC>AC>DC you want the charging to be at 50% capacity to be at max efficiency (minimum waste heat)
 
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#27 · (Edited)
njvagabond said:
What devices? Looks like 2 of those new 12>24v Victron DC-DC @ 1400w each connected direct to battery might be a good approach ? The little bit I understand from skimming the manual looks like they are highly configurable in terms of input/output/control/timing yadda yadda. With just the on board config it might even be able to mimic load shedding or just use the voltage from CCP2 as the signal to force them on and off (along with other control configs met). Of course it appears to also work with all of the more compliacted powerful Vicrton multi letter acronym network/comms stuff that is in your wheelhouse for even more party tricks. $356 each.
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Engine shutdown detection(ESD) can work a couple different ways from my fiddling. You can absolutely use it to turn the charger on and off, but you can also use it to derate the charger based on voltage as well.

I trigger my chargers with engine run and I’m actively using ESD to reduce the chargers output at 13.3v input voltage. This keeps the voltage at CCP1 around 13.6v under idle conditions, 2 chargers make 1000-1100w at idle in my van depending on ambient temperatures. As soon as the engine is above like 800rpm the chargers jump back to making 1350w and sustaining 13.9v at CCP1. It’s just a little healthier for the alternator doing it this way.
 
#28 ·
njvagabond said:
What devices? Looks like 2 of those new 12>24v Victron DC-DC @ 1400w each connected direct to battery might be a good approach ? The little bit I understand from skimming the manual looks like they are highly configurable in terms of input/output/control/timing yadda yadda. With just the on board config it might even be able to mimic load shedding or just use the voltage from CCP2 as the signal to force them on and off (along with other control configs met). Of course it appears to also work with all of the more compliacted powerful Vicrton multi letter acronym network/comms stuff that is in your wheelhouse for even more party tricks. $356 each.
Click to expand...
I've got one of the XS1400 units and the Giandel inverter. Planning to make the XS1400 the primary / low-level charger then add the DC-AC-DC on top of it when more charging is called for. Haven't got to that point of the van yet...

As you suggest, I have pretty elaborate control capacity with our system in the old van. Currently, I'm not using TPHPM since I did some voltage-based charging-profile stuff... and it works... so I've just been lazy and haven't bothered to disable the smart alternators. When the voltage drops on the starter battery below certain levels, I back the charge-rate down, then raise it back up when the starter battery voltage goes back up. I figure similar logic/control between the two of them - also integrating engine-run, TPHPM control, and external control of the charging inverter - should make an interesting control/use-case. We'll see...
 
Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
#30 ·
A Level 2 charger operates at a voltage of 208 or 240 volts AC in North America, similar to the voltage used for large appliances like electric dryers and ovens. This 240-volt supply provides a much faster charging speed than Level 1 (120-volt) chargers, making Level 2 chargers an excellent option for home and public charging
 
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