Air Filter Nightmare - Page 127 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1261 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:20:AM
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@ssiimoo ,

The only way to dry the padding under the mat is to remove it, set it somewhere with padding up and in good air flow for a few days, then reinstall. My cargo mat was probably holding gallons of water when I removed it. It was significantly lighter after drying upside down on my shop floor for a week.

This was on a used vehicle that had prior duty as a plumbing van, so the source of the water may not have been a factory issue. I have not noticed any further accumulation of water and the mat was not reinstalled. In my case, a layer of hydrophobic Thinsulate CS150 was installed over the floor ribs to provide a way for water to wick to the edges and escape from under the new floor above. A layer of floor underlayment for sound damping and a vapor/moisture barrier was installed between the Thinsulate and the plywood beneath the Cork click-lock flooring.

Not particularly practical for the cab floor, but might offer some outside-the-box ideas for your consideration moving forward.

If you do remove the front mat to dry for a week, take advantage of this to run water over the van to isolate where it is coming in. This might be a lot easier to find when you can trace the water back over the painted metal floor to its origin.

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post #1262 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 10:46:AM
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So it’s a bit strange that our Ford maintenance back in June 2018 didn't noticed anything, even though they said they ran water over our van and tested if there were some leaks. Clearly they didn’t noticed the missing gutter part and - in our opinion, it's not good thing at all if water is leaking straight directly over electricity parts, alternator and air filter…..
You took the dealership dis-service centers word that they checked it out. Based on my past experience with dealership dis-service centers I'm pretty sure they didn't do a **** thing but told you they did a lot.

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post #1263 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 11:34:AM
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I had a stinky Nissan Frontier with chronic soggy floor mats. Stealership service was useless. Eventually I tracked it down to missing foam gasket on driver seat positioning post that penetrates the floor. I dried the mats, but the stink never went away. I traded it in for the Transit.



Transit has two holes for the battery box positioning posts that double as vents for the batteries. To check that the gaskets are on the posts, you'll have to remove the seat, the batteries and the box.



Like the holes in the roof, there are other holes in the floor that are only covered with stickers.
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post #1264 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 05:46:AM
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Thanks for your replies.

We ripped off seats, battery box - and the mats because those were totally wet. We aren't able to put those mats back, we will also replace those with some another products. We have run also water over the van.

We noticed those vents and holes on the floorboard - and there were yellowish marks (water leaks) around those. Besides it, I think that it's leaking also from the engine compartment to the cabin. There is one seal where seems to be added some waterproofing sealing tape on some cases (we saw some videos on YouTube) in the US?

And surly Bill, unfortunately I agree regarding dis-service....
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post #1265 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 03:29:AM
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Update- the air box lid I ordered arrived a few days ago- had the overlap channel and the finned side lobe- BUT-
the hole for the sensor was wrong- it was rectangular instead of round- parts guy thinks it may be for the diesel.

He ordered another one of a different part number which should be here this week- we'll see.
So the 2nd attempt failed also- it was the original style leaky lid. But it did have the correct sensor hole.

Parts guy ordered a 3rd lid that he thinks may be right- I don't think it will be as when I looked at lids on the 2019 3.7's there is NO hole for the sensor, and that is what I think he ordered.

I've since come up with yet a 4th part number that might finally be the right one...

IMO Ford's parts system sucks- there are NO pictures or drawings anywhere of many of the parts including the new lids. Not even on whatever the dealer's parts guys look at.
What a system.

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post #1266 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 07:44:PM
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We bought Ford Transit 2016 van (the longest and highest version) back in May 2018. It was planned to be our future rolling home / home on wheels. On the beginning of our van build we noticed that our van's floor mats were wet and smelled odd.

while it is possible that the source of your leak might be from the engine compartment or from the underside on the floor it is doubtful since we have not had major reports of this type of issue before.

A more likely cause your problems might be all the flooding that's been going on in the United States these last couple of years and you might have gotten a van that had been flooded and resold without disclosing that.

If that is the case you will probably need to instigate legal action since any vehicle that's been flooded is probably going to be nothing but problems.


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post #1267 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 08:03:PM
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Bob, good point! I forgot all about that stuff going on East of the Rockies! It should be easy to trace the VIN and see what lots tha van had been on when it was for sale.

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post #1268 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 12:46:AM
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Thanks for your replies.

We ripped off seats, battery box - and the mats because those were totally wet. We aren't able to put those mats back, we will also replace those with some another products. We have run also water over the van.

We noticed those vents and holes on the floorboard - and there were yellowish marks (water leaks) around those. Besides it, I think that it's leaking also from the engine compartment to the cabin. There is one seal where seems to be added some waterproofing sealing tape on some cases (we saw some videos on YouTube) in the US?

And surly Bill, unfortunately I agree regarding dis-service....

https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...-water-my.html
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post #1269 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 04:20:PM
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Air Filter Nightmare

This AF is a nightmare in more ways than one.

***I have a 3.5 EB, so don’t read this diatribe if your air box is different) ***

I previously bragged there was no sign of water entry on mine (a 2015), but now I’m not so sure. Anyway, went to replace the filter yesterday, and discovered more “nightmare.” While the filter was dry, and probably too clean to replace, I looked at things better than before. Again, no signs of water staining on this filter (the 2nd one) just removed, nor was it wet, but I looked at the old original (1st one, which I had not thrown out for some reason), and it DID have stain marks. So who knows what happened in the first year-and-half or so. But, the things I really want to point out are:

1) the little groove around the perimeter, that the filter and the lid sits down into had quite the layer of packed in dirt & dust. I spent a fair amount of time cleaning the grooves with a small screwdriver, some q-tips, and several paper towels, and then cleaning out the lower half of the box. Now this is all on the “dirty” side, but if the filter were sitting into a 1-2 mm dirt/dust build-up, I’m not sure those pesky dust particles couldn’t bypass the filter. I believe this “groove” is slightly exposed to dripping water (in the absence of a T.U.R.D.). There was also a fair bit of residue in the “dirty” lower box’s bottom. I recently had a Used Oil Analysis done, and the silicon reading, typically associated with a leaking air box or dirty filter, was not as low as I would have liked. Not extreme, but worthy of attention. So I paid a little extra attention to cleaning this all up. But this was not the end to the surprise.

2). It’s possible to get the front-side latches to snap back into place without the backside tabs (against the firewall) securely engaged. It feels right, until you get the front-side latched. The back-side stuff turned out to be extremely resistant to secure engagement. I had everything “bolted back down” twice, only to find a good upward tug on the upper part of the box, would disengage the back tabs...meaning all sorts of uncleared air could slip by. This is certainly not the type of setup you could entrust to your everyday quickie-lube kid to do correctly. Probably not even to a dealer mech...or any mech. Through no real fault of his own, he could be lulled into thinking he had it all battened down correctly. And the front-right tab is hopelessly close to some sharp-edged tabs holding some headlight wires. I bet I spent 30-45 minutes just on getting this put back together right....at least I hope it’s right. Maybe it wasn’t done right the last time (and that could be my doing...or some mech’s)...but possibly never was right.

3) with all this extra wrangling, the middle tab gave it up for good.

If this was some engineering student’s project, I would have flunked him. If this was a paid engineer’s work, I would have fired him....but he probably got promoted instead.

Which brings me back to my earlier post:

Has anyone gotten an updated upper (lid) that fits the older MAS connector, but that has the revised flange to divert water from above? Even if I have to buy the entire box, it might be worth it (though not sure if a new one will be ANY easier to service).


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2015 HR mid-length, EB3.5, 3.31 started out as "blank canvas" but now with some ghetto / not-so-ghetto conversions. But certainly no Airstream or Outside Van.

Last edited by impatient; 01-24-2019 at 04:28:PM.
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post #1270 of 1437 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 04:58:PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impatient View Post
This AF is a nightmare in more ways than one.

***I have a 3.5 EB, so don’t read this diatribe if your air box is different) ***

...
2). It’s possible to get the front-side latches to snap back into place without the backside tabs (against the firewall) securely engaged. It feels right, until you get the front-side latched. The back-side stuff turned out to be extremely resistant to secure engagement. I had everything “bolted back down” twice, only to find a good upward tug on the upper part of the box, would disengage the back tabs...meaning all sorts of uncleared air could slip by. This is certainly not the type of setup you could entrust to your everyday quickie-lube kid to do correctly. Probably not even to a dealer mech...or any mech. Through no real fault of his own, he could be lulled into thinking he had it all battened down correctly. And the front-right tab is hopelessly close to some sharp-edged tabs holding some headlight wires. I bet I spent 30-45 minutes just on getting this put back together right....at least I hope it’s right. Maybe it wasn’t done right the last time (and that could be my doing...or some mech’s)...but possibly never was right.
...

I agree, as to having found it difficult to button up properly.

2015 Transit 250 Cargo MR LWB 3.5L w/3.31

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