MAXXAIR 6200k Install - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 12:52:PM Thread Starter
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MAXXAIR 6200k Install

Biting the bullet and installing a MaxxAir 6200k on my medium height Transit this weekend. I've reviewed a million posts and mostly have it sorted. However, I have a few questions about fastening that no one seems to really address.


Caveat - I'm using Hein's roof adapter and installing in the back in that tight space between the roof ribs. I'm not using an underside framing strip inside the van. Or not planning to unless someone convinces me otherwise. I know Hein's interior adapter will not work in the space I'm installing it.


Q's:


1. How many fasteners did you use that fully penetrate the roof through the flange? Full penetration attachments all around the mounting flange seems like overkill and I'd prefer to limit the number of holes I drill into roof.

2. The most likely water intrusion point on the roof is the drilled fastener holes along the gutters (sides of the flange/vent, as opposed to the front and back of the flange/vent). If you're not drilling through the roof skin on all holes around the flange can I avoid the gutters (sides) and simply penetrate the skin in the front and back of the flange to avoid roof penetrations in the gutters?

3. If you didn't do full penetration fasteners all around the flange, did you still use the remaining flange holes to attach the flange solely to the Hein adapter?

4. Did you use sheet metal screws or nuts/bolts (or some combination of both?).

5. Did you use rubber washers above the roof mount flange or below against the underside of the roof skin? Seems like a good idea given the flex in the van when in motion and that the weak point in the roof mount is the flange (which appears likely to crack over time).

6. Any reason to put a squirt of silicone into the drill holes that penetrate the roof skin before screwing them in? I've only seen where folks apply it the top of the screw head but in other applications (construction primarily) it's considered good practice.





If it matters or you're interested, I'm using 3M Windo-Weld under the Hein adapter and planning to cover the whole flange post-install with Eternabond.



Thank you!
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Last edited by velodirt; 08-15-2019 at 01:00:PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 02:23:PM
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I'd install wood frame inside. You'll need something for your ceiling and the internal fan trim to fasten to. 1"x2" battons (3/4 x 1 1/2") work perfectly


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 03:21:PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Inkog View Post
I'd install wood frame inside. You'll need something for your ceiling and the internal fan trim to fasten to. 1"x2" battons (3/4 x 1 1/2") work perfectly


For your wood frame, did you just use the fasteners coming through the roof to secure it? That's what it looks like anyways.



BTW, that's a first rate build out. Nice work! Mine is much more amateur hour looking.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 04:35:PM
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Originally Posted by velodirt View Post
For your wood frame, did you just use the fasteners coming through the roof to secure it? That's what it looks like anyways.



BTW, that's a first rate build out. Nice work! Mine is much more amateur hour looking.
Yep, I used all the factory mounting locations through the sheet metal into the frame. You'll need longer screws than provided to get good purchase if you use Hein's adapter. I used butyl tape and 3M 5200. No leaks. I purchased Eternabond to go over everything, but never bothered to install it. I guess I will if it ever decides to leak

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 04:55:PM
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I used butyl tape to level it and put one screw in the center of each long section into the sheet metal. Then, Eternabond on all four sides, covering all the screws/screw holes.

It is solid.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 09:25:PM
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I glued Hein's adapter to the roof and screwed the fan to the adapter. No screws through the roof. It's still there after 3 years.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 02:47:PM
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Originally Posted by bicyclist View Post
I glued Hein's adapter to the roof and screwed the fan to the adapter. No screws through the roof. It's still there after 3 years.
I used window weld for both sides of the adapter and put lap sealant on after everything cured. no holes/screws at all.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-16-2019, 11:49:PM
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I've done 2 fan installs using Hein's adapters.

On the first, I used window weld as he recommended. It's nasty stuff. In order to get a great 'bond', it needs the activator that's used when they do a window install using that stuff.

On the second fan, I used 3M 4200 fast cure marine adhesive. 5200 is great to use also, but is a more permanent adhesive. Both are urethane based adhesives as is the window weld from NAPA. The cost is about the same.
Make sure you get the "fast cure" 3M adhesive if you use it, not the regular cure which will take a week to harden. The 4200 or 5200 fast cure will be firm in an hour, and solid as a rock the next day. It's messy stuff no matter which one you use.

I also added supports from the rear cross rib, to the next one forward. You'll see the sheet metal is extremely thin and flimsy and really doesn't offer much support. I'm glad I did. Like the other poster said above, you'll need material on the inside of the roof that will allow you to attach the plastic trim piece once the fan is installed. The last thing you'll want is a flimsy foundation that will move, warble, or vibrate when going down the road. Do it right the first time.

I glued the fan adapter from Hein first, and let it cure overnight. It was solid the next day. MAKE SURE you scuff the paint with scotch brite, or 220 sand paper before gluing the adapter to the roof top. After that, put your upper fan flange in place, mark the holes, remove the fan flange, drill them (right through the adapter and metal roof)

Then, apply the butyl tape over the topside of the adapter. Place the upper fan flange back on top and fasten it securely with sheet metal screws. FYI the butyl tape will ooze ouf on the sides and also sag on the inside, especially when the sun heats things up.You don't have to use silicon caulk with the screws, but it can't hurt either. You don't need any leaks.
After it's all secured, I also applied GE Silicon II to the whole top side of the upper flange as well as the outside of the adapter where it meets the rooftop.
Overkill... yeah. Who cares? I don't want any leaks...

Good luck.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 02:52:PM
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Quote:
1. How many fasteners did you use that fully penetrate the roof through the flange? Full penetration attachments all around the mounting flange seems like overkill and I'd prefer to limit the number of holes I drill into roof.
If you use adhesive or VHB tape rather than butyl tape then screws at the corners will be enough. We provide those with our adapters.

Quote:
2. The most likely water intrusion point on the roof is the drilled fastener holes along the gutters (sides of the flange/vent, as opposed to the front and back of the flange/vent). If you're not drilling through the roof skin on all holes around the flange can I avoid the gutters (sides) and simply penetrate the skin in the front and back of the flange to avoid roof penetrations in the gutters?
We do not experience any leak points using our adapters when all screws are used and penetrate the roof. Just make sure to drill pilot holes through the adapter and metal. And apply membrane sealant over everything as final step.

Quote:
3. If you didn't do full penetration fasteners all around the flange, did you still use the remaining flange holes to attach the flange solely to the Hein adapter?
Best if all screws penetrate both adapter and metal roof. We have an offset adapter (thick on one side due to slope of roof) on our van and not all screws go through. It has been on for 4 years and no sign of coming loose.

Quote:
4. Did you use sheet metal screws or nuts/bolts (or some combination of both?).
Sheetmetal screws are fine. Some have used bolts/nuts. Just do not over-tighten so butyl is squeezed out and vent flange is depressed around head of fastener. Just snug is best.

Quote:
5. Did you use rubber washers above the roof mount flange or below against the underside of the roof skin? Seems like a good idea given the flex in the van when in motion and that the weak point in the roof mount is the flange (which appears likely to crack over time).
No rubber washers are needed. Membrane sealant over the top of everything will prevent leaks. Check and renew as needed. We have not experienced any cracked adapters.

Quote:
6. Any reason to put a squirt of silicone into the drill holes that penetrate the roof skin before screwing them in? I've only seen where folks apply it the top of the screw head but in other applications (construction primarily) it's considered good practice.
Again not needed but if it feels good do it. You can use a dab of windoweld for this.

Thank you for using our patent pending adapter. You may be overthinking this a little. No need to get carried away with the install. We have seen it done in a number of ways and never hear of leaks.

All the best,
Hein
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 09:15:AM
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Some are happy using tape to hold the fan in place. Im the opposite side of that coin.

Fast cure 5200 to glue heins adapter in place, butyl tape to seal the fan mount to the adapter. Thru bolt/nuts thru the fan mount, heins adapter,van skin, and a wood fame on the inside. The wooden frame is glued to the skin on the inside usind 5200. As someone noted, you’ll need the interior wood to attach your celind to anyway.

My fan was installed away from any ribs so the wood was used in part to stiffen things up. The butyl tape will enable you to remove/replace the assembly if ever needed.

I also used strips of 1/8 x3/4 aluminum on top of the fan mount to prevent possible cracking of the fan mount plastic. Others have done the same. Or just use fender washers and dont tighten too much.

Finally, dicor self leveling sealant over the bolt heads and aluminum strips.

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