Where to store water tanks? - Page 8 - Ford Transit USA Forum
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post #71 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 07:50:PM
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12V water solenoid

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Originally Posted by Inkog View Post
I intend to install a 12v Water Solenoid Valve so I can drain the grey tank whenever needed. Like when that asshat is riding my ass
Which valve are you planning on using? I was going to use a standard Rainbird but they are 24V. Does anyone know if 12V will open them? Guess I could always try...
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post #72 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 07:59:PM
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I just checked and a 3A 12V to 24V step up converter is like $12. A 1" valve is $15. So for $27+ a switch you could do remote dump of your tank. Not sure if 1" is enough but I'm sure they make bigger for bigger $$$.

edit: just checked and 1.5" is $47 so there's that possibility but i'm thinking a 1" will drain plenty fast.
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post #73 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 08:13:PM
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Originally Posted by Aqw1942 View Post
I just checked and a 3A 12V to 24V step up converter is like $12. A 1" valve is $15. So for $27+ a switch you could do remote dump of your tank. Not sure if 1" is enough but I'm sure they make bigger for bigger $$$.

edit: just checked and 1.5" is $47 so there's that possibility but i'm thinking a 1" will drain plenty fast.

I drain my gray tank with a 1" ID rubber hose. No valve. No problem. Just a boat transom expanding rubber drain plug removed from end of drain hose.

Do not have any issues with P-traps. Do not have any. Piping path from the sink and shower go down past bottom of gray tank and then back up into the tank. Pipe path creates a "P-trap". The tank drain is at the low point of the piping.

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post #74 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 08:27:PM
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Originally Posted by Aqw1942 View Post
Which valve are you planning on using? I was going to use a standard Rainbird but they are 24V. Does anyone know if 12V will open them? Guess I could always try...
Lots of 12v NC on amazon for reasonable prices. I have no experience with them as to how they'll hold up with sediment as @DaveInSeattle pointed out, but I'd imagine they'll work just fine in this application. They are cheap and easily replaceable anyway.
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post #75 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-14-2019, 08:32:PM
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Lots of 12v NC on amazon for reasonable prices. I have no experience with them as to how they'll hold up with sediment as @DaveInSeattle pointed out, but I'd imagine they'll work just fine in this application. They are cheap and easily replaceable anyway.
Ah. Duh. Much easier. I am planning on that route!
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post #76 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-15-2019, 12:08:AM
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Some RV plumbing vendors say don’t use anything less than 3 inches. I thought 1.5 inches was a compromise! Perhaps it’s because most of those folks are dumping larger tanks filled with ****. And they don’t really want to stand outside doing this.

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post #77 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 05:49:PM
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Good point – I never really looked into the definition of gray water. Apparently gray water is everything but toilet and kitchen sink. I was surprised to see that kitchen sinks are excluded, but because of the food particles they apparently have bacteria. And occasionally urine is not sterile.
Kitchen sinks are typically not grey water just because of the food particles that are usually in dishwater. As far as the toilet, it is not grey water if it is mixing the liquids and the solids. If you happen to have a urine diverting toilet (typically composting toilets) then the urine can go into the grey water tank. Mixing it with the shower/bathroom water dilutes it.
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post #78 of 81 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 01:46:PM
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Nice tank InKog... about the size I am looking for to put over the driver rear wheel.

Where did you buy it?
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post #79 of 81 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 04:49:AM
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Originally Posted by Inkog View Post
Lots of 12v NC on amazon for reasonable prices. I have no experience with them as to how they'll hold up with sediment as @DaveInSeattle pointed out, but I'd imagine they'll work just fine in this application. They are cheap and easily replaceable anyway.
Be careful selecting those 12V solenoid. Those with diaphragms require a bit of water pressure to operate. They won't work with just gravity pressure from the tank. You want those straight magnetic solenoid valves, which come in much lower diameters. I'm thinking having 2 separate drains. One with 1/4 or 1/2 inch diameter solenoid valve with a restricting valve for the slow "leak" on the highway, and a manual 1.5 inch diameter manual valve to clean and drain when get home.

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post #80 of 81 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 07:21:PM
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I used Hepvo valves instead of P-traps. https://hepvo.com/
Its like two membranes that separate to drain any liquid, but seal to avoid any air coming up.
They can not slosh empty and because there is no liquid in them, they can not break by freezing and they keep functioning with longer storage in hot weather when liquid can evaporate in a typical P-trap.
Thus far they have worked well (since 04/2017).

On a separate note, IMO the main distinction between black and grey water is absence of solid - fecal matter in grey water!
We put only the tiniest food scraps in the drain (no fat!). All scraps, most coffee grinds and fat go in the trash and this helps enormously to empty and keep the tank reasonably clean and allows me to drain it through 1", and even 3/4" if I need a hose.

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Last edited by SierraHiker; 02-28-2019 at 11:20:AM.
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